Hi,
A couple of you have asked me for more details on my 'Hot Loco Carrier' that I showed with my Accucraft Royal Hudson sitting on it.
For those who have not read the facts in The Accucraft Royal Hudson lising, here is what I said:
The Hot Loco Carrier.
The one in the photo was actually the very first one that I built.
I have supplied about 20 over the years to customers, and the later ones had folding handles so that when they were not in use they would take up less space.
As far as instructions are concerned, 1 1/2" x 1 1/2" x 1/8" aluminum angle, with a 1/16" plate screwed underneath so that the angles are rail width apart.
The plate stops about 6" from one end, and the aluminum angle is chamfered on the underside to nearly nothing, so that it will fit over the outside width of the track when the other end of the carrier is lifted and will lock into alignment with the track. I have a piece of dowel wood in the handle that I use to put under the carrier for this use and don't have to hold up the end.
The handles can be made as you like. I like to have at least a foot of handle to allow for ease of balance when carrying.
This will mean that it is not as critical where your loco is placed on the carrier, as you can still make it balance when carrying.
The loco is stopped from rolling in the carrier by use of 'sliding window' locks, the ones with a groove and a locking screw, one on each corner, and a suitable piece of wood to hold the loco back.
I normally glue some foam, or a sponge, onto the wood so that the loco has something soft to press against.
For the 2860 I had to do some cutouts so that the pressure was against the front beam.
Here are a couple of photos that show how I use the sliding window locks at both ends. They are of course adjustable so will accommodate any length of loco that will fit on the aluminum.
This brand has nice sharp point on the end of the adjusting screw, so it really locks the loco in place. Other brands do not, and I found that they are not quite as safe, and tend to move as you tighten them up.
Incidentally, I chose to build them in aluminum because it make then strong, heat resistant in case there is dripping fuel, and also fairly light.
You can also see how the one end is chamfered about half way through the aluminum. This was the first and I have made later one a little thinner at the ends, but you don't want to go too thin because it will break off and also becomes a sharp weapon!
Have any of you other ways to carry hot locos around. Perhaps we can share ideas.
All the best,
David Leech,
Delta, Canada
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A couple of you have asked me for more details on my 'Hot Loco Carrier' that I showed with my Accucraft Royal Hudson sitting on it.
For those who have not read the facts in The Accucraft Royal Hudson lising, here is what I said:
The Hot Loco Carrier.
The one in the photo was actually the very first one that I built.
I have supplied about 20 over the years to customers, and the later ones had folding handles so that when they were not in use they would take up less space.
As far as instructions are concerned, 1 1/2" x 1 1/2" x 1/8" aluminum angle, with a 1/16" plate screwed underneath so that the angles are rail width apart.
The plate stops about 6" from one end, and the aluminum angle is chamfered on the underside to nearly nothing, so that it will fit over the outside width of the track when the other end of the carrier is lifted and will lock into alignment with the track. I have a piece of dowel wood in the handle that I use to put under the carrier for this use and don't have to hold up the end.
The handles can be made as you like. I like to have at least a foot of handle to allow for ease of balance when carrying.
This will mean that it is not as critical where your loco is placed on the carrier, as you can still make it balance when carrying.
The loco is stopped from rolling in the carrier by use of 'sliding window' locks, the ones with a groove and a locking screw, one on each corner, and a suitable piece of wood to hold the loco back.
I normally glue some foam, or a sponge, onto the wood so that the loco has something soft to press against.
For the 2860 I had to do some cutouts so that the pressure was against the front beam.
Here are a couple of photos that show how I use the sliding window locks at both ends. They are of course adjustable so will accommodate any length of loco that will fit on the aluminum.
This brand has nice sharp point on the end of the adjusting screw, so it really locks the loco in place. Other brands do not, and I found that they are not quite as safe, and tend to move as you tighten them up.
Incidentally, I chose to build them in aluminum because it make then strong, heat resistant in case there is dripping fuel, and also fairly light.
You can also see how the one end is chamfered about half way through the aluminum. This was the first and I have made later one a little thinner at the ends, but you don't want to go too thin because it will break off and also becomes a sharp weapon!
Have any of you other ways to carry hot locos around. Perhaps we can share ideas.
All the best,
David Leech,
Delta, Canada
