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If there are no significant grades, weight means very little. Even with grades, not everyone needs the lightest locos to have a great experience.

Many people using batteries don't need the maximum run time (and of course nowhere near track power ha ha).

So, I'll agree weight can make a difference, but it's not a big red X against using 2 packs vs. 1.

Regards, Greg
 
So, I'll agree weight can make a difference, but it's not a big red X against using 2 packs vs. 1.
Weight, having to change the packs out every hour because of pathetically low capacities... Sure, they're not insurmountable issues. But they are part of the "cost" of the system. If your criteria is purely monetary, then you accept the other issues as part of the compromise of doing things "on the cheap." That's fine. I've merely decided over the years there are certain conveniences I like in my choice of battery technology which more than justify the added cost of the battery pack itself. It's like using aluminum rail for track power. Sure, it's probably the cheapest way to do track, but it comes with considerable baggage that doesn't justify the cost savings. Money isn't the only consideration in any decision.

Later,

K
 
Discussion starter · #23 ·
Kevin, each to his own. The way I enjoy my trains, weight and 1 to 2 hour run times are not an issue. coughing up $75 for each pack is an issue. But you guys are missing one of the major points I was trying to address: Canabalizing the $5 charger to get a "slideon" battery reciever, which makes the whole battery swap a piece of cake.
 
Kevin, we were talking apples to apples, 2 packs... you quoted this in your response, then you say changing out the packs because of low capacities.

You have contradicted the information (and logic) even within your post. TWO packs totaling the same amp hours as one of your "non-pathetic" packs.

And weight again, is simple physics. If slight grades, all you have is rolling resistance, weight means virtually nothing on the flat.

And I did miss the $5 connector, pretty smart!

It really seems this is another "Kevin just going contrary to what Greg says" thread.... sigh...

Greg
 
There are three scenarios in play. The first is a single "pathetically low" capacity pack that would need to be swapped out fairly regularly. The second involves two packs in parallel. The first scenario does not pose any concerns relative to weight, but you've got the swapping issues. The second solves the swapping issues, but introduces concerns relative to weight. In my experience, they do need to be mitigated lest you cause undue wear on the trucks (or break them from the weight). The third is to stick with the Li-Ion technology which eliminates both the weight and swapping issues, but does cost a bit more per pack. It's all about which poison you'd rather drink. I've drank from all three cups over the years, and know which one I find the most palatable. (And that's without even taking into consideration the strengths and weaknesses of the specific battery chemistries.)

The question that hasn't been addressed is what's keeping Don from just swapping out the Li-Ion batteries he already has? Why does he have to bring the entire battery car in to be charged? If there's an "inherent flaw" in any of this, it's that it seems he doesn't have a "battery car" in the traditional sense of a car in which you can swap batteries in and out, but has a rolling battery pack that must be swapped out in its entirety for a new "rolling battery pack." That's the problem I'd be looking to solve first. Choosing a particular battery chemistry would come second to that.

Later,

K
 
Posted By East Broad Top on 05 Jan 2011 12:12 PM
.... Why does he have to bring the entire battery car in to be charged? If there's an "inherent flaw" in any of this, it's that it seems he doesn't have a "battery car" in the traditional sense of a car in which you can swap batteries in and out, but has a rolling battery pack that must be swapped out in its entirety for a new "rolling battery pack." That's the problem I'd be looking to solve first. Choosing a particular battery chemistry would come second to that.

Later,

K
Well...see, that's another issue...where the battery is charged. One thing I think we've all learned is that it's not really safe to recharge a Li-ion battery INSIDE a car or engine. So, those choosing the Li-ion approach must remove the battery from the car/engine to charge it...preferably in an appropriate ceramic charging vessel (to contain any potential fire). Those ceraminc charging vessel's cost should be considered, like the charger cost, when considering Li-ions...or Li-Pos.


Second...charging times. Li-ions charge faster, so theoretically, you'd need fewer batteries to keep running continuously.


Third...size. Li-ions have about twice the charge density of NiMN/NiCads. Therefore, for a given weight or volume availability, you can get twice as much capacity on board...doubling run times/weight or volume.

Fourth...cost...and this is where the difference is. CR's 18v 2600 mah pack is $89. HF's equivalent capacity would be two1300 mah batteries...at $20 (they're on sale now for $9.99 http://www.harborfreight.com/18-vol...7029.html) .


Fifth...lifespan 1. We know that Li-ions have a 10x or better life span compared to NiCads when measured by number of recharges...assuming you recharge each type properly. If you use a crap charger (like that $5 one), the multiplier gets way larger. So, in the long look, even though Li-ions cost 4 times more, if you run a lot (and recharge a lot), then the Li-ion might be less expensive.


Sixth...readiness. One of the beauties of the Li-ion battery is that retain their charge after charging. NiMH/NiCads don't. So, if you have a recharged Li-ion battery that's been on the shelf for two months...it will probably power your engine just fine. That's not true for the NiMH/NiCads...after three months they're pretty dead...so they won't be "ready" for you when you want to operate.

Seventh...lifespan 2. We know that Li-ions lose about 20% of their capacity per year from internal chemistry changes. After 5 years they're dead if you store them fully charged. This is not true for NiMH/NiCad batteries. Properly charged, they last forever practically...but storing them fully charged means zip if you leave them on the shelf for months. But the devil in the details is "properly charged"...this requires a sophisticated charger...something way better than that $5 rig. I use a $100 Maha. There's some literature out there that says if you store Li-ion batteries at 80% charge, they last longer than 5 years. I just haven't found a charger that lets me automatically end charging at 80%.


In summary...if $6/ft track and $100 batteries are getting you down, those $10 batteries from HF sound like a good option to help with the finances...but I don't see em as a panacia.
 
Anybody hear the "dueling banjo's" from Deliverance here between GE, and EB besides me?????? Hah LOL Regal da da da da da ! dew dew dew dew dew dew dew! da da da da da!! Just a pickin and a grinin!!

Oh and Yeah I use Nicads cheaper and safer!! IMHO!! Charge em right from me widdle boxcar! Easey Peasey!! Oh and me runs are an hour or so long!! When I know I'm running next day I charges em the night before, and always have an extra boxcar or set of batteries handy. 4200 mah 7.2's 2 for $49.00 shipped free,wired in series with charger jack just behind the sliding door!!
 
Discussion starter · #28 ·
"In summary...if $6/ft track and $100 batteries are getting you down, those $10 batteries from HF sound like a good option" Maybe this poor economy doesn't affect some of you, but it certainly has empacted my descretionary spending. If $$ was not a concern...at all, I'd be talking about Li-ion drill packs. It may not seem like a big deal to unplug a deans connector, or clip on some allegator clips, but if you've spent some time with an outdoor layout that has "plug in" packs you might understand why I've brought this all up. The HF packs are dirt cheap and the chargers (also dirt cheap) can be used as connectors.

If I was a contractor and could get 3 hours from my cordless drill instead of 1.5, it might be significant, but to me, If it takes 2 seconds to slap in a fresh pack, I dont care. Actually gives me an excuse to put down my adult beverage and go tinker with my trains. I see some guys pulling 20 cars and more. Do you think I worry about weight pulling at most 8? I just ordered 5 HF packs and 4 chargers for $69. Now all that $$ I would have spent on Li-ion I can use to buy more track, or a few more cars. For me, in my train world, this is a no brainer.
 
...
Well...see, that's another issue...where the battery is charged. One thing I think we've all learned is that it's not really safe to recharge a Li-ion battery INSIDE a car or engine. So, those choosing the Li-ion approach must remove the battery from the car/engine to charge it...preferably in an appropriate ceramic charging vessel (to contain any potential fire). Those ceraminc charging vessel's cost should be considered, like the charger cost, when considering Li-ions...or Li-Pos......

We'll, I guess I haven't learned that lesson yet, because all of my Li-Ions get charged on-board and inside a building .... Just like my laptop, which uses identical Li-Ion cells (18650's) as far as I know. I know this is a hot topic, but personally, I am very comfortable with it. If your not, then stick with NiCad and NiMh. They work just fine too.
 
Many people swap their batteries out to charge them.

Sailbode's method is an even easier connection than the tamiya connectors that others use.

Kevin, you are doing exactly what you accused me of last time, wanting everything built like a tank, by the way!

Let's focus on what the original poster asked and wanted, and try to give him answers.

I think fresh thinking is good. I think optimizing your dollars is good.

Greg
 
Posted By Del Tapparo on 05 Jan 2011 02:00 PM
...We'll, I guess I haven't learned that lesson yet, because all of my Li-Ions get charged on-board and inside a building .... Just like my laptop, which uses identical Li-Ion cells (18650's) as far as I know. I know this is a hot topic, but personally, I am very comfortable with it. If your not, then stick with NiCad and NiMh. They work just fine too.

I understand your position...and it's fully yours to make. I was just trying to list all the pertinent considerations regarding Li-ions (and Li-pos)...and as you pointed out, "this is a hot topic"...especially in the hobby world (where serious engineering (as in computers and phones) hasn't been accomplished)...and in legal circles. Personally, I would feel more comfortable with the Li-ions/Li-pos if the versions that were offered for GRR trains had the balancing jack. In the RC airplane world, the use of the balancing jack (with a balancing charger) has reported reduced the number of battery fires during charging...least that's the claim. Others will point out that RC plane batteries take a beating from vibration, landing, and crashes...and that's why they've shown a higher propensity to explode/burn...but when they do, they REALLY burn...and those are tiny packs compared to the ones we use.
 
I must disagree with the contention that NiCd batteries self discharge at the same rate as NiMh.
That has not been my (long term) experience at all.
Quite the contrary. I often charge up the NiCd batteries in one my demo locos after a show/steam up and do not use the loco again until the next meet in 6 months time. I always top them up prior to the show with a Maha smart charger, and the capacity they take is minuscule. Maybe 10%.
Regular NiMh batteries always go flat by self discharging within weeks. Especially AA size.
Hybrid Alkaline/NiMh cells are guaranteed to hold 85% of charge for one year and that has also been my experience.
I have very little experience with Li-Ion and none at all with Li-Po apart from my I Phone. My battery supplier refuses to sell me Li-Po.
 
I have to confess that like Del, I have not seen any evidence that it is more dangerous charging my li-ion batteries than my phone and/or laptop computer. I am, however, very careful that I charge my batteries with the charger recommended by the manufacturer.

The other thing that puzzles me is this issue that by the time a li-ion battery is 5 years old, it is essentially dead. Most of my li-ion batteries are at least 3-4 years old, and some of them pushing 5 years old, I and honestly cannot see much difference in my run time with any particular engine. I recently bought two new batteries of the same type (Aristo) and I honestly don't see much if any difference in runtime between these relatively new batteries with the older ones. I have probably averaged charging my older batteries once very week or so for their life. Are my batteries getting ready to "die on me" any day now??? I'm not trying to be argumentative here, but I just do not see this deterioration issue. What am I missing??

Ed
 
Mike, I am definitely not attacking your comments about the life of li-ion batteries, and I don't have any data to disagree with them, except my personal experience. I am thrilled that I haven't seen this yet, but I'm honestly puzzled why I haven't!! (and needless to say, very pleased!!!)

This whole issue of the 5 year life raises some interesting issues when one thinks about the new Chevrolet Volt and the Nissan Leaf which both have li-ion batteries. Seems their battery life will only be 5 years? Hmmmmm!!!! (Guess I'm happy that my Prius has ni-mh batteries!!!!)

Ed
 
Posted By eheading on 05 Jan 2011 04:35 PM
---This whole issue of the 5 year life raises some interesting issues when one thinks about the new Chevrolet Volt and the Nissan Leaf which both have li-ion batteries. Seems their battery life will only be 5 years? Hmmmmm!!!! (Guess I'm happy that my Prius has ni-mh batteries!!!!)

Ed

You got that right...for sure...that's why there's so much money going into Li-ion research now...to extend the life of em. I still say that if a Volt or a Leaf or a Tesla are in a bad crash....RUNNNNNNNN!!!!!!!!!!!
 
The clock starts with Lithium batteries as soon as the cells are assembled...

Operating and storing temperatures and cumulative charge cycles are a BIG player in their life as well, charging forms deposits in the electrolyte; the resulting increase in internal resistance diminishes capacity and the ability to deliver current.

Average life is 3-5 years or the claimed 1000 charge cycles. Seems you’d be lucky to realize 500 cycles in my testing…

The typical Lithium Ion cells or #18650’s we use do not have the propensity for combustion or to ignite when miss used and or miss charged with respect to the typical Lithium Poly batteries due the nature of the enclosure, charge limiting and depleting safety circuits and the mechanical pressure relief valve afforded of the individual cells assembly.

There is some good information on this technology for those who want to learn more about same, see link below.

Lithium Ion battery info link:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lithium-ion_battery

There are disparaging differences in application, specification, form factor, safety features and charging precautions at the very least of Lithium Ion and Lithium Poly battery technology.

Lithium Polymer battery link info:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lithium_polymer

I believe that this technology was embraced without the proper understanding of its idiosyncrasies and accordingly lots of problems were realized early on…

I like the individual cell monitoring that is common place with today’s Lithium Poly offerings. I like it so much that I incorporate it in my Lithium Ion batteries as well. In a nut shell this new approach monitors each cells voltage and allows the charger to balance the cells respective state of charge by matching all the cells to a pre-determined value prior to initiating a charge (individual cells will be discharged as required or matched, subsequently the battery (cells) is charged).

FWIW: You can get a BIG bang for the buck with Lithium Poly, while these cells are designed for grand discharge curves as high as 40C which is typical of performance RC Aircraft/Car/Boat demands, the low end low “C” rated batteries are perfect for our needs.

See the link below for Li-Poly rataed @20C, 6S/22.2V/5000mAh for $59.95 USD or a 3000mAh 4S/14.8V for $18.12 USD.

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_listCategoriesAndProducts.asp?idCategory=317

What is “C” or C-rate?

The charge and discharge current of a battery is commonly referred to as its “C” rating. A 1000mAh battery provides 1000mA for one hour if discharged at 1C rate. The same battery discharged at 0.5C would provide 500mA or 0.5 Amps for two hours. At 2C, the 1000mAh battery would deliver 2000mA or 2 Amps for 30 minutes.

Lithium Ion #18650 cells have a “C” rating of 2 or 2C. Today’s offerings are typically 2200mA and can provide 4.4A continuous discharge for about 20 minutes in my tests of multiple batteries on a Electronic Load before voltage depression decays the rated 3.7V per cell.

When Li-Ion cells start to go flat and or permanently go away there is little to know warning if any.

Have fun,
Michael
 
My experience with nicads and nimih on "going flat" is exactly what Tony stated. In many ways, nimih was a step backwards, really no advantage except some increase in energy density.

Regulay li-ion batteries usually have 300-400 full charge/discharge cycles.... I know there are ones "rated" higher... have never encountered them, they are definitely NOT being used in my laptop, shaver, phone, or the other 20 devices I have with them in it.

On the other hand, I do have some nicad devices with 10 year old batteries, in fact if you have an old Makita tool, with the long skinny battery pack, it's probably many years old.

I don't expect anything more from my li-ions, and I am not disappointed. I buy a $200 laptop battery every couple of years (li-ion)...

Regards, Greg
 
Don,

I also run a Cordless Renovations 18V 2600mah Li-ion battery in my 3 truck shay, and ran it for over 4 hours at Marty's. I am very happy with the battery's performance and quality and will be staying with them. I have seen many people use the drill packs, and have great success with them. I also have considered going with that type of battery, but there are a few things that will keep me from that method.

First, I want my batteries contained in my loco, which is something I absolutely cannot do with the drill packs. I personally do not want to run a battery car as standard.

Second is cost....my CR battery was $89 and it runs for over 4 hours. Considering the HF batteries are $14 each, for an hour's time (estimated)...that is $56 plus $5 for the socket and now you have $61 to reach that 4 hour time. I am not afraid to say my CR battery will probably last nearly twice as long as the HF batteries. If so you are now up to $122 That doesn't count the cost of the car to use as a trailer.

One thing you must consider when using a large pack, such as a drill battery is Center Of Gravity....you are putting a lot of weight up high, and on tight curves or track that's not level, that may bite you.

My battery is fully contained within my shay, and is charged inside the tender. I have purchased a CR-1 smart charger, and to this day have had NO problems doing it that way. Yes, I have to pull the loco out of service to charge the battery, but after 4 hours of running, it deserves a break.

That's my 2 cents.
Chris
 
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