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casting of parts

17K views 71 replies 28 participants last post by  Matt Vogt  
#1 ·
Yea, its me again.
After reading all of Master Burl's writings I stepped out on my own.
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I'm shaing the photos but its best to read the articals in GRYs he wrote.
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I had to use one of his as my masters and filled in some spots to make it easier to remove from the mold.
I broke it but later glued it.

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the "pour"

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The little one is a 100 ton hopper brake wheel which failed. I was tring to make them for Leons project.

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I tried to pour slow to let bubbles out but I am still missing a part.
 
Discussion starter · #4 ·
Thanks
I did not have any rubber bands , will go to town tomorrow to get my "forgotten items"
my 3rd one I must have taken out too fast, its sad....
I even tried working on something else because I don't have patience. I don't like watching corn grow. hehehe
My first mold was a hard one. I'm tring two windows now. photos later.

I had to order more rubber just now. woow that stuff goes fast.
 
Discussion starter · #10 ·
This one is called an OPPSSSS
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I think I took it out too soon and forgot to shake the darker colored stuff before I mixed it.
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I use styrene as forms then cut it away.
 
Discussion starter · #12 ·
I thought that at first, I don't shake the thick clear stuff, I now shake the thin dark stuff and very little if any bubbles stay in. This last pour I poured it in the thinner other side and it worked great. I am taking notes as I go and amounts per each item so i don't waste so much.
I need to take a brake and get the end of my side dump car built so I can cast it. Hopefully many parts on it will be cast. I hope for 4 sidedumps to go with my section crew train.
 
Discussion starter · #19 ·
JJ asked me to share more info and photos , so later I will up date some of the things I'm learning.
Here is what I bought,
http://www.alumilite.com/ProdDetail.cfm?Category=Starter%20Kits&Name=Super%20Casting%20Kit
Keep in mind alot of folks have given me ideas over the years.
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I cut the bases off very carefully.


I bought a new drawer thingy to store my molds and some parts.
I'm now doing easy stuff .




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the chunks in the cup is to push in around the edges to raise the level around the people.

I buy these after Christmas people and repaint them , very reasonable prices.

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The wire holds them down and in the center.
I'm casting them in rubber so I can have half people for the seats of my passenger cars.
Tomorrow morning I will be casting people. And yes I still have to paint them.
 
Discussion starter · #20 ·
Last night I was working on my Duffus side dump car and today cast couple of the end panels. I'm waiting for more rubber to come in.
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Also when I do a new pour and don't want to waste the extra have a small air tank or something to cast .
 
Discussion starter · #26 ·
Posted By rwalker on 01/01/2009 9:58 AM
Just because you cast them, it doesn't make you liable. Trying to SELL said copies as your own is another matter. I've been casting parts for years to make multiples for large projects . Also if you'd like to refine your molding, here's my web pages on casting:
http://fp1.antelecom.net/animeasy/casting1.htm

Thanks
http://fp1.antelecom.net/animeasy/casting1.htm
this should work.

Its getting past spending the $60 start up.
[But I found some wheel holders I tried making long time ago and gave up. today i have enough for my LGB 53' flat MOW car
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Max says HI..
I tell you, I love it.
 
Discussion starter · #30 ·
Thanks Warren
But I have not really had problems, I allow it to flow into areas then fill up. I have done the wire thing someone said and popped the few bubbles before it set.
I have black resin coming tomorrow. My next order of rubber will be PINK stuff. man this yellow stuff brakes easy.
I missed that part in the Masters articals.
I'm almost out of ides. I want to finish the side dump car and see how it fits together.
cut the last tree down today . So now none of them hit each other in the wind and brake off sticks.
 
Discussion starter · #32 ·
Master
Yes Chris Wallas made them and I keep it under lock and key with my one other valuable. I am very greatful for it.
 
Discussion starter · #33 ·
Came home from work early today becuase of icy rain starting. so

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My side dump car is coming together.
need to get the bottom figured out but.
This is FUN...
 
Discussion starter · #36 ·
I did not get my corners right, but then I also needed a place to glue to. I bought black resin this time but its hard to see how its dring.
These big mold s I had to practice before I poured to know where to lift to let the bubbles out of the lower side.
I need to get going on my centerbeam ends becuase I know some are waiting for that.
I will show a finished flat with wheels and I finally finished some other cars that I started but ran out of winter.

Hers an up date.
I need to change out the cylinders because they are too small and I ususlly finish all the ends at the same time.
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Once I place a washer under the car, the coupler will be right.

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the molds.

heres the wheel car
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73' bulkheads CSXT need weathering yet
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Discussion starter · #37 ·
I still have a lot to learn yet, the cars need decals and weathering.
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live and learn.
 
Discussion starter · #42 ·
Rex
This is how I get through the long winter dark nights. keeps me from being depressed.
This is also building up confidence so I can build Rex car I owe him, I owe Nick one, now I owe Kevin one.
I'm a slave to ya all!!!

Guys if I can do this so can you.
Its not that I'm tring to get "up" to Burls level, its that we are all in different pieces of the same pie.
There is NO levels.
 
Discussion starter · #47 ·
Matt have not tried trucks,,yet.
Jim
I tried to figure cost per oz $1.65 for 1 oz.
the material in the cars is low, its the labor and high priced decals, plus trucks and couplers.
Kitbashing is more costly but better out come over all.
I build cars you can't get simple because very few folks have them, and I'm alittle different anyways...
Most of them are simple boxes or flats with ends.

Jason, so far I just level it. then belt sand it flat.
 
Discussion starter · #49 ·
I'm about to start buying smooth on rubber because this stuff rips too easy on hard molds. I listed it back in the thread where to get it.

***I knew about this for years, but I let the cost stop me. now after the start up cost I'm off and rolling and making the stuff I have always wanted.
I can make it for others also.****
 
Discussion starter · #53 ·
Kevin
get your butt over there and ask them for free samples to be tested by a possible buyer. sweet talk them alittle and be sure to save your legs.
 
Discussion starter · #63 ·
JJ, I still use my 3M emblem adhesive. these car sides are stiffer feeling than some of my other cars.
 
Discussion starter · #66 ·
Its all in how you hold your tongue..
I to have very few if any bubbles and if I pour into a "cave" I tilt the mold till it fills first then lay it flat and continue. very thin wire helps hard spots.