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Uintah 2-6-6-2 build log

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#101 ·
You shoe horned your pump in nicely. I like you approach letting you only have to use one size ball. What about you smoke stack base? In the flat wouldn't an oval shape be needed or is the amount needed negligible? She just keeps looking better. Thanks for all the tips tricks and inspiration.
 
Discussion starter · #103 ·
Finished most of the smoke box covers. The flat bottom created a few challenges but it came out ok

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I started with a piece if 1/4" brass. Cut it out on the band saw and drilled a 1/4" hole. I then mounted it on a face plate in the lathe with a 1/4" screw and super glue and cut it to size and cut the groove
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I then checked the fit against the back side of the smoke box
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I flipped it over and marked the cut with a pencil
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I cut just shy of the line on my cross cut sled. this was done in several passes of about 1/2 the blade width as I was just holding it by hand
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On the 1" belt sander I sanded the line out
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And then cut the groove on the mill
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I then re-mounted the plate on the lathe and cut the front detail and cut out the access hole.
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I marked the rivet holes with a compass
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Here I got a little lax and forgot to take any pictures but the smoke box door was turned using a mandrel and attached with a 4-40 screw which will be used for the number plate
The hinge straps were milled out of 1/8" square stock and the hinge stays were milled out of 1/8" x 1/4" stock. The hinge pins are 0-80 SS round head screws which are threaded through both sides of the stays
As I want the door to open, the bolted stays are decorative only and are silver soldered to the door. Screws are 00-90
To align the hinges, I first super glued them in place, then drilled the rivet holes; broke the glue joint; cleaned it up;inserted the rivets and silver soldered in place
Dennis is doing the graphics for the number plate and hopefully we will do the etching at Henner's on Saturday
 
Discussion starter · #105 ·
Working on a few things this week
I Started with the fuel tank which is a box design which will fit in the coal bunker behind the cab

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Silver solder is strong enough for a but joint, but I decided to make rabbit joints to more easily hold the pieces in place while soldering them

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a 1/32' x 1/16" groove is cut in the 1/16" thick brass sheet on the table saw using a 1/16" blade from a stacked dado set which has a perfectly square profile
A 2 x 4 which has been planned true is clamped to the fence as a guide
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The finished piece
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The bend is made in my home made break. A square is used for alignment
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The fitted joints are now ready for soldering
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The completed tanks with the filler valve on the left and the gas valve on the right. You can just barely make out the six stays on the sides. They are 1/8" brass rod
If you look at the top plate, you can see how nice the rabbited joint is
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The coal load will cover the tank

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The steam pipes are painted with low gloss engine paint
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The exhaust pipe is attached to the front engine. The steam pipe is under it

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The cylinder covers have a round inspection cover on them so I made an embossing tool with male and female parts for the job
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Embossed covers
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Cylinder covers and exhaust pipe installed
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The superheater is made from a piece of 3/16" thin wall SS tubing with a 1/4" - 40 threaded fitting at the smoke box end.
Here the line T's off to the two engines. This is the t box for that purpose.
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This shows the T box mounted ready to be attached to the superheater tube
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On the back head end an L shaped fitting is silversoldered to the tube which connects to the valve. The valve is of similar design to Accucraft narrow gauge models

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A 1/4" hole in the firebox allows the superheater tube to be removed but since the tube is only 3/16", I made a bushing to seal out any flames or heat which could cause problems in the cab


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I started on the banjo fittings. I am not a fan of metal to metal banjo fittings as I am always afraid of breaking the hollow screw.
I have found this design to be fairly easy to make and a good sealer.
This is made from 5/16" (.312) stock and drilled out to 1/4"
Then with a small boring tool cut from an end mill, I cut the grove .030" wide and .028" deep. Approximate is close enough
I use a 6mm o-ring which is just under 1/4" and only .040" wide.
With this setup, I get a nice crush on the o-ring and the brass portion bottoms out making a sturdy connection
The hole in this one is for 1/8' tube. I drill a 3/32" clear through and then the 1/8" just shy which gives a nice fit for soldering.
 
Discussion starter · #109 ·
Hi Jason
I have a list of several large Honey-do's which will probably tie me over to the NSS
A friend mentioned a live steam Thomas which might be cool and fairly easy to do.
 
Discussion starter · #111 ·
Got a new mill this week
it is a German made Prazi
It has DRO and a stepper motor for the Z axis
I added this dial indicator for when I lock the Z colum I can then still get micro adjustments through the drilling handle
It has a great chuck and collets

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Here are the clack valve components
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The throtle and pressure gauge are fitted to the cab
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Generator is turned on the lathe and the flat and riveting done on the mill
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The whistle dome, generator and fitting box are set on the boiler but something doesn't look right
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I have no top side photos but in reviewing all of the side photos I have, I see that the box has hinges on both sides so I change the design and plug the handle holes with JB
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Two sisters
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Top view
 
Discussion starter · #113 ·
Yes
The sight glass will be made next week. I am using 6 mm glass tube so had to order some larger hex for the nuts but I have it now
There will be two safety valves. one underneath each steam dome
 
#116 ·
Wow, absolutely amazing work.

I didn't realize you were building two (spent more time looking at the photos than reading apparently).
 
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#118 ·
Beautiful craftsmanship,Bill !

Some thoughts:" thinking like steam i would be okay with a steady pressure when the water level covers the crown sheet,but here might be a little problem when the water level at the "crown sheet" is low(sheet not covered),the sloshing of the water hitting the really hot crown sheet leads to a rapid increase of steam pressure which will affect the steady run of the loco( a kind of spurt followed by a slow down when the pressure levels out till the sloshing hits the sheet again and so on...
I had the experience with a gas fired Jane when the water in the pot boiler ed jane was at 1/3 rd and going around a curve when the sloshing water hit the sides of the boiler (the gas burner creates a kind of v-shaped burn pattern through the draft which heats up the sides of the boiler more than the bottom ) which looks like a runaway attempt! On the other hand 4 cylinders might just consume the short high pressure affect without notice! Manfred
 
Discussion starter · #119 ·
Manfred
I am not sure what you mean.
Are you referring to the fact that the boiler is so long that water will slosh around or that this is an effect that happens to all boilers on turns
 
#120 ·
No Bill, i am referring to the bottom of the firebox,the crown sheet directly above the burner unit which will get really hot if the water level is right at height with the crown sheet,!

Manfred
 
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bille1906
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