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Kitbashing diecast metal

3.5K views 4 replies 3 participants last post by  tacfoley  
#1 ·
I recently picked up a USAT 0-6-0 "dockside" loco for a very good price. I plan to repaint it and rebadge it to appear as Reading RR 1251, which is described as the "last operating steam loco on a class A line in America." Apparently the reading still used in in the early 60s in regular yard service.


Image


They are both 0-6-0 saddle tank engines with slide valves but otherwise the USAT model is much longer than the Reading and #1251 has two square sandboxes on either side, different headlights and the bell is in a different place, among many other diferences. I'm not loomking for a perfect model, just a mdoel that's slightly more like the Reading prototype


I've never tried to mess much with a diecast model. Are there any guides to kitbashing in metal. I assume cutting the USA model down would be a non-trivial job and very unforgiving. I may not even try. But are there any sources of info out there for kitbashing a diecast model?
 
#2 ·
Zamac takes forever to cut with a dremel and makes a LOT of filings. (That will mix with the oil in your skin and sweat and make a paste that itches) You'll want lots of abrasive discs, sanding drums and sharp milling cutters. You can fix most minor boobers with spot putty or voids with JB Weld.
http://www.the-ashpit.com/mik/panel.html


If you're sectioning it you will probably want to reinforce the joints with pins.

In other words, it's do-able. It's just a pain in the butt
 
#5 ·
PLEASE wear proper eye-protection if you are going to futz around with Zamak/Mazak with a high-speed cutter/drill/sander - whatever. The dust produced by working this stuff is not only highly abrasive to tender skin, but can easily penetrate mucus membranes, or just wet bits, like the eyeball, and easily get infected. This could lead to permanent disability in that most sensitive of organs.

tac
www.ovgrs.org