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In-ko-pah Railroad -- Ione, NV miner's cabin

14K views 51 replies 29 participants last post by  Rod Fearnley  
#1 ·
I just completed a new structure for my In-ko-pah Railroad. It's a replica of an old miner's cabin in the little town of Ione, NV. Here's a photo of the prototype:

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As you can see, there are some unique features that really give this cabin a lot of character, particularly the homemade metal awnings over the windows, the stovepipe with its fancy clay cap, and the window cut into the original door. One of the awnings appears to be made from part of the roof of an early automobile.

I only had a couple of photos, taken from a distance, and the the cabin is surround by tall weeds and junk. So I had to "fill in the blanks" using my knowledge of other cabins similar to this one. I also added a window to the blank wall on the opposite side.

The model is made of styrene, textured and painted to look like old, weathered wood. The awnings and corrugated roofing are made of brass. The door and door frame are modified Grandt Line castings.

Here are some photos of the model:

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I replaced the saw mounted on the front of the cabin, with a bighorn sheep skull. The skull was sculpted from polyclay...
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The rear of the prototype cabin was not visible. On my model, I opted to give it a different style of siding -- a common practice on many of these old buildings. I also painted it with grayer, more muted colors, to represent the shaded side of the cabin...
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Here are some close up detail photos. The window shades were made from Tyvek, cut from an envelope and painted a yellowish tan. The curtains were made from lace, saturated with acrylic matte medium and then painted grungy off-white::
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Here's the cabin temporarily in place on the layout. I still need to do more work on the site, to bring the concrete "soil" up around the cabin. I also need to add plants, an outhouse, and other details:

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The cabin is located in an area without wiring, so I installed an LED powered by two D cell batteries. Here's a test shot of the cabin at night:
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As I complete the cabin's site on the layout, I'll post new pics:

http://www.raydunakin.com/Site/IRR_Miners_Cabin.html


Enjoy!
 
#30 ·
The flypaper is a made from a very narrow strip of Tyvek, cut from an old envelope. One end was pinched together and glued into a 1/16" diameter brass tube. I painted the strip and the tube with Apple Barrel flat acrylic paints. Then I used a cutoff wheel to cut the tube off (it's easier to handle if you don't cut the tube down to size until after painting). Then just sand the end smooth and cover the exposed brass with paint. The "flies" are just tiny specks of black paint.

BTW, I also used Tyvek for the loose ends of the toilet paper. The "roll" is styrene tubing.
 
#33 ·
I can look at those photos for hours. Love all that detail!@import url(http://www.mylargescale.com/Providers/HtmlEditorProviders/CEHtmlEditorProvider/Load.ashx?type=style&file=SyntaxHighlighter.css);@import url(/providers/htmleditorproviders/cehtmleditorprovider/dnngeneral.css);
 
#39 ·
Been a long time since I last updated this, but I finally have something new to show...

First off, I built a small water tank to provide water for the cabin. It's supported by a "wooden" platform made of styrene. The rear of the platform will rest on a stone ledge:

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The pipe is made of brass rod with slices of 1/16" styrene tube added to it. The faucet handle is a snap fitting from the fabric store. The hose is a length of solder attached to a short piece of brass rod, which fits into the styrene faucet. A slice of heat shrink tubing forms the "brass" connector on the hose:

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I now have the cabin, outhouse and tank permanently installed on the layout. I still have to add plants and some clutter:

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#48 ·
Thanks guys!

I started with a couple "G scale" steel drums that I bought on ebay a while back. These are open on one end, with nice molded detail on the other end. But the sides were overly thick. Also, I wanted to be able to crumple some of them to look battered and/or decayed. So I used them to make my own two-piece silicone mold, then cast a bunch of them in urethane resin. For unopened drums I just filled them solid. For the open ones, I used the Dremel with a cylindrical sander attachment to grind out the interior and reduce the wall thickness. I heated them in boiling water to soften them, making it easier to add dents and deformations.