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Improving Accucraft H8 Burner Performance

70 views 3 replies 3 participants last post by  fsts2k  
#1 ·
As I have continued to try to improve all engine performance.. the H8 was next on the list.

For background, I purchased this locomotive new from Accucraft at the end of their run around 2019. From the start I consistently had issues lighting the fireman side burner thus often trying to steam with only 50% of the available heat. To fix this Accucraft sent me a larger set of burners which when paired with a mixed set of jets (#8 and #5) helped but performance was still inconsistent and required snaking a flexible lighter pointed at the burner.

While it worked, I thought burner performance could be improved similar as what I did with my Daylight, wrap Nichrome mesh around the burners. Here is a short write-up of my steps.

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Unfortunately the H8 cab is quite tight due to the multiple steam lines. To access the burners there are four screws under the cab which when removed allows the cab to be removed.

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I then pulled off all the steam lines including breaking (not on purpose) the sight glass. The next step was to remove the boiler mount which is a L shaped black metal piece that mounts under the burner tubes, two small screws mounted vertically and one large screw into the boiler.

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Once complete I pulled the burners which are quite tight, the biggest issue is that the superheater tubes constrict the burners from removing out the back. With a bit of leverage it is possible to sneak the burners out the back.. now the mesh wrapping starts.

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I originally started by fully wrapping the burner but the burner tubes are too small to allow the burner to slip in.. On to plan B

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Plan B was to cut a smaller strip with a 60 degree bend in the middle. I then wrapped the burner and mesh with Stainless Steel wire to hold it in place and slide the burners back in...

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I then put the steam lines back on and briefly tested. I found that I was able to switch to #8 jets (vs. the previous mix of jets noted above) and viewing the fire through the air holes I believe I saw much improved burner performance. Please note, unfortunately the H8 does not provide great visibility to see the fire so I am relying on small air holes to infer if the fire is clean and consistent across the burners; I think it is.

Post that quick test I now need to put a new sight glass in and test for steam leaks but I am cautiously optimistic the steam up time will greatly reduce and both burners will consistently light with less challenge.

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Will report with running test soon. Once done I will start to find the next locomotive to put the mesh in; I am currently enthusiastic with the revised burner performance that the mesh seems to provide.

Thanks for following along
 
#2 · (Edited)
Kevin,

I looked at that when I repaired the superheater on the fireman side, but I didn’t think I could wrap the mesh and still get the burner back in position. Congrats on getting that done. Maybe I played operation enough as a kid but I managed to keep the site glass intact..

I guess I’d be curious about how much faster it comes up to pressure. There seems like there is simply too little space there to create the radiant effect but, if true, I might even be tempted to try to get through the metal jungle again…The better problem solved may be getting the burner to reliably light in the first place. The mesh may act as a flame stabilizer as installed—not sure.

The position of superheater tube makes it hard to know if that’s the real problem but, of course, it’s difficult to see anything once everything is reassembled.

Sam
 
#3 ·
Great Kevin:
To fix the water level tube, if you can't get a replacement one fast, take some laboratory gass tube the right diameter, then measure the desired lenght, mark it out on the tube. Then with a swiss file in a triangular shape file all around the tube a bit at the desired length. Then it should break easely right were you filed around it. I then sand it flat on both ends on some fine emery to get a clean end (not indispenssible). And you have a new sight glass!
I hope your mod is a success.
 
#4 ·
Thank you, new glass is in. I purchased a small glass tubing scorer which helps for sizing the tube. Once scored I gently tap it on a 90 degree table edge to break the glass and then sand the tube flat. Seems to work.

The hardest part for me is getting the tube to slide through the fittings. I use a bit of steam oil and often sand inside the fittings a bit to clean out scale.

Sam, will try to fire it Sunday and time how long it takes to get the safeties to lift. I am not convinced it will steam faster but I do believe it will light both burners more consistently now, time will tell.

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