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Kevin

While I'm not a fan of the early steam locomotives like you are modeling here and I surly don't have the patience to delve into such a project myself, I am grateful that you and others have the patience and know how to build these marvelous projects and share the builds with all of us.
 
Hi Kevin,

Your new loco looks very good - congratulations.


You mention double sided tape - whose make is it please? I am in the UK,(thus no 'Michael s) in the web there is some scotch 2 sided tape, is that it? Or is it a heavyweight glue (perhaps called 'special' tape



A rather interesting little quirk is that the D&RG versions of the loco seem to have had a lower set of boiler foot boards, so they ran through into the bottom of the cab - it quite chnges the look of them.

A supposition is that later they had deeper cabs so the cab base dropped below an already low foot board - that is the Bachmann ones.

I am interested in them but to do know if they will go round my sharpest curve; that is about (its flerxitrack)4.5 ft radius. The chassis is about 4mm longer than a C16, with the addition between drivers 1 & " - I wonder if they had trouble with the valve gear repair?


Thanks for the interesting post.

Yours Peter.
 
in the web there is some scotch 2 sided tape, is that it?
Peter,
Yes, scotch 2-sided tape ("Sellotape" in the uk?) is the same stuff.

if they will go round my sharpest curve; that is about (its flerxitrack)4.5 ft radius
I read somewhere they will go around R1 curves - that's about 2' radius ?
 
Discussion starter · #29 ·
Peter, not sure of the specific brand I use, but it comes in a small roll about 2" diameter or so, and if you have a store that specializes in crafts near you, it will be in with the adhesives. I know it's not Scotch brand, but that could be just as effective. Next time I'm at Michael's, I'll look up the brand.

I've found foot boards on some locomotives to be particularly migratory over the years, which could account for some visual differences as well. Even on this one, compare their location on in the early prototype photo to that on the latter.

This weekend's weather looks particularly nice, so hopefully I'll have a chance to get started on the painting.

Later,

K
 
Discussion starter · #31 ·
Northwest Short Line still makes their version, called "The Riveter." It works in conjunction with their "Sensapress." That's the good news. The bad news is that the two combined will run you about $200, which is why the Micro Mark version was so nice. Same basic tool at half the price. If you've got a drill press, then you can mount the riveter into that, as you can see in the early photos. Quite frankly, it's probably the better way to do business in terms of keeping things aligned, as my Micro-Mark arbor press is a little sloppy in that regard. (Those two vertical posts don't exactly allow for precision alignment.) I'd bet that the NWSL version is probably a little better in that regard.

Later,

K
 
Discussion starter · #34 ·
That'd be perfect. In fact, the adjustment per turn of the handle is the same, as the Micro-Mark unit also uses a 1/4-20 thread. The key is to set up a punch and die that's stationary while the work moves on the table. The Micro-Mark bits are great, but you don't need them. For years, I used a piece of brass bar stock with a series of hemispherical indentations for different sized rivets, and a punch I ground down on my grinder. A better-shaped punch would be one that's basically at the bottom except for a little bump in the center that makes the indentation. The bump forms the rivet, and the flat part bends the material at the base making for a sharp transition from surface to rivet. I filed mine from some 1/4" round brass chucked in my drill press using a jeweler's file. I thought I had a photo, but I don't. I got the idea from Vance Bass, who had a drawing on his web site. Alas, I think he's changed servers, so I don't know where he's hosting his stuff now.

Painting has commenced. The plannished iron jacket is looking great, but I get to fight with my airbrush tomorrow in an attempt to get a smooth, even coating of olive green paint on the cab and tender.

Later,

K
 
Posted By East Broad Top on 07 Dec 2011 07:24 PM
The Prototype

I wrapped 3/32" cork around the smokebox, and will wrap embossed styrene sheet around that to bring the smokebox to the proper diameter.
Man, that's something I'd never have thought of using because of fear of what happens when cork gets dry and brittle: will sheet wrapper show indentation if something bumps it or I absently grab model by smokebox?

Posted By East Broad Top on 13 Dec 2011 09:39 AM
Progress update:
I had some extra plumber's putty left over, and I decided the Trackside Details headlight I had bought for this loco wasn't quite "right." So a little bit of putty, and a surplus Bachmann "electric" headlight has begun its backdating to a kerosene headlight.
Looks neat!
 
Discussion starter · #36 ·
will sheet wrapper show indentation if something bumps it or I absently grab model by smokebox?
Depends on how hard you hit it. Just grabbing it won't cause any issues. I handle my boilers lined with cork all the time with no problems. It's pretty dense stuff, so it doesn't really compress all that easily. If it falls off the 3' tall half-wall onto the baby exerciser below (fortunately empty), then it dents. Moral of that story--don't put trains on a 3' tall half-wall with toddlers running around. ;) Seriously, I've got locos I did 20 years ago with this stuff and it's still in good shape. It's sandwiched between a solid PVC (or copper) boiler and the jacket, so even if it does get brittle, it's not like it can go anywhere. It's not flexing or anything like that.

#7 is out of the paint shop, but needs some finishing touches before it's ready for its public debut. I just finished the electronics install last night. She sounds as good as she runs.

Later,

K
 
Discussion starter · #37 ·
Image


East Broad Top #7 is now ready for revenue service on the Tuscarora Railroad. The cab, wheels, and tender are Badger ModelFlex "Seaboard Airline Pullman Green," which is a dark green that looks almost black all but the brightest sunlight. The EBT locos of this era wore a dark olive green purported to have similar properties. The boiler is Testor's Buffable "Gunmetal" rubbed over with powdered graphite for additional shine (then dulled down with a grimy black acrylic wash). Smokebox, firebox, and frame are flat black, then weathered with washes and powders.

Image


Washes and powders accent the details of the firebox and drivers.

Image


The lettering on the tender is consistent with lettering on newly-painted EBT locomotives c. 1908. EBT #7 was in the paint shop in 1908 when the shop burned down, so #7 would most definitely have gotten a fresh paint job after it emerged from its rebuilding after the fire. While no photos of #7 in service on the EBT after the fire exist, one can make a strong argument that given other locos being painted in the olive green with orange lettering right at that time period (for which there is photographic and documentary evidence), that this would have received the same paint.

Image


The cab has enough plumbing inside to make it look well detailed, but I didn't go too overboard. I did wire in a small lantern inside the cab to illuminate it at night.

Image


The coal load is crushed coal. The EBT used "run-of-mine" coal in their locos, so the chunks would have run the gamut from fairly large to dust.

Image


I weathered the boiler on this loco a bit more heavily than I typically do, but I wanted to give this loco a hard-working look. The coal dust is exactly that--coal dust. I dappled flat black paint onto the top-most surfaces of the boiler, then sprinkled the coal dust onto the paint and let it dry. The paint holds it in place very nicely. The roof was painted gloss black, then washed with a grimy acrylic wash, dust applied, then brushed with black weathering powders.

Image


I still have to paint a proper crew for #7, but that'll be winter project. The Barry's Big Trains chassis does not disappoint--it runs very smoothly. When compared to my model of EBT #3 (one of the EBT's 3 early 2-8-0s) it's easy to see how much larger and more powerful this loco was than anything the railroad had up to that point. Can't wait for next summer when I can start running her on the railroad regularly. I think 70-degree days are going to be in short supply.

Later,

K
 
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