I suggest that you contact David Leech, who is a regular poster on MLS and also contributor to the G1MRA quarterly Journal.
David used to sell very effective carriers that will load a locomotive directly from the carrier to the track. I have seven of David's carriers and they work well and do a good job of both handling and protecting a locomotive.
David no longer builds these for sale but may share some photos with you of how his are designed so as to give you some ideas for a sucessful and practical carrier. Use the seach function to find him on the forum.
Jeff Williams

 

Hello Richard,
And thank you Jeff for suggesting my name.
My design is so that the carrier can be used in two ways.
With the clam shell top with foam blocks inside closed, it will cradle the loco when transporting in a car, or carrying it into events.
With the cover removed from the base with lift off hinges, it can then be used to transport the loco to the track, and then with the back end lifted slightly, the loco will roll off smoothly at the front where the aluminum angle has been chamfered.
Likewise, after steaming, the loco can be transported off the track, even when hot.
For North American locos I use a Kadee coupler to hold the loco in. Some customers feel that this is not safe enough and have added additional ways to secure their loco.
I just always make sure that I hold it front end up a little.
The attached 5 photos (I know that I have shown them before, so sorry about that) are of the very first one that I built, and there have been subtle changes over the years especially where the handle connects to the base. The original plastic clips can break, so more recent ones have holes in the handle 'U' that fit over shoulder bolts.
You can always contact me directly if you need more information.
Cheers,
David Leech

 

Another suggestion is to contact Bill Allen, also a regular poster to MLS.

Bill builds all-wood carriers for his locomotives that also will load directly to the track. Bill has a backgound in the making fine-furniture I think and his carriers demonstrate his skill in woodworking. I recall Bill discussing and providing photos of his carrier designs in connection with one of his many locomotive construction threads.

As you can see in the photos David included in his reply, his carrier design uses an aluminum structure to support the locomotive and a wooden "clam-shell" to protect the locomotive in storage or transit. The structure uses screw-attached home-store aluminum sections for the most part and doesn't require machining or welding capabilities.

So, depending on whether you are more comfortable with wood or metal fabrication, one of the two design strategies may work better for you.

Jeff Williams

 

There is an article by Jack Thompson in the Garden Trains Annual 2023 on how to build a carrier that might provide you some guidance.

 

Hi David -- Thanks for posting those again, I am interested in this issue also. Could I ask a question: is the purpose of the dowel at the back to give a slight incline to facilitate rolling the train onto the tracks? Thanks so much.

 

Hi David -- Thanks for posting those again, I am interested in this issue also. Could I ask a question: is the purpose of the dowel at the back to give a slight incline to facilitate rolling the train onto the tracks? Thanks so much.

Correct. The dowel is just a convenient way of lifting the back end so that the chamfered angle at the front makes for less of a height difference.
Regards,
David Leech

 

Hello Richard,
And thank you Jeff for suggesting my name.
My design is so that the carrier can be used in two ways.
With the clam shell top with foam blocks inside closed, it will cradle the loco when transporting in a car, or carrying it into events.
With the cover removed from the base with lift off hinges, it can then be used to transport the loco to the track, and then with the back end lifted slightly, the loco will roll off smoothly at the front where the aluminum angle has been chamfered.
Likewise, after steaming, the loco can be transported off the track, even when hot.
For North American locos I use a Kadee coupler to hold the loco in. Some customers feel that this is not safe enough and have added additional ways to secure their loco.
I just always make sure that I hold it front end up a little.
The attached 5 photos (I know that I have shown them before, so sorry about that) are of the very first one that I built, and there have been subtle changes over the years especially where the handle connects to the base. The original plastic clips can break, so more recent ones have holes in the handle 'U' that fit over shoulder bolts.
You can always contact me directly if you need more information.
Cheers,
David Leech
View attachment 66676

View attachment 66677

View attachment 66678

View attachment 66679

View attachment 66680

David,
I see the bar at the back with the coupler holds the two angles at the proper gauge, Are there any other cross members that help hold gauge towards the middle or front?

My first round at a loco box is very much like this design but made of Oak. Still in the shop, It will be beautiful, it will function as yours, It will be HEAVY. I plan number two to resemble these lighter materials.

Tyler

 

Hi Tyler,
There is a 'plate' underneath that does the work of spacing the aluminum angles.
It is short of the front, so that you are able to tip the carrier and align the chamfered end.
In later years I used flat head screws and countersunk them to make a smooth bottom so not to scratch tables!
Here is a photo of the bottom.
Cheers,
David

 

David, what size angles did you use? I will be able to make a set for my Accucraft 2-6-0. Easy milling job. Thanks.

 

David, what size angles did you use? I will be able to make a set for my Accucraft 2-6-0. Easy milling job. Thanks.

Brad,
To keep things simple and only make one jig to hold and drill everything I settled on Aluminum Angle 6063T5 2" x 1 ½" x ⅛"
This is fine for most 'normal' locos, but NOT for monster narrow gauge ones where you will need more width.
So, with the track gauge 1 ¾", plus two of the 2" angle less ⅛" each, gives you a theoretical 5 ½" between the aluminum sides, but then you may also have nuts or bolts that also stick out on the inside that may interfere with the loco cylinders etc..
Best to work the other way, measure the loco first and do your calculations.
Good luck, and post photos when you've made it.
Cheers,
David

 

David, can you give a close up shot and description of the handle attachments and the other side pieces that support the plywood shell? It is a great looking carrier. Thanks, Jim

 

Hi Jim,
The handles are aluminum flat bent into a 'U' shape and have a natural spring to them.
Make sure you get the aluminum that you can bend, if it's not the right stuff it will fracture.
The holes in the handles fit over stepped bolts that are tapped into the aluminum angle.
The knobs on the handles are just to give you something to grab hold off when springing the handle open to take off or put on.
The hinges are the lift off type so that the plywood shell can be easily removed, or attached.
Hope this photo helps to make things clear.
Of course there are lots of ways to make something similar.
Regards,
David Leech

 

This is a thing of beauty to me and my skill set. As an aviation mechanic, working with aluminum comes naturally. Bill's design that I've tried to mimic is wonderful, but my understanding of wood and attraction to antique looking oak furniture, has lead me to build a box that I need a Linebacker to carry for me.
If nothing else, I should build one just for around the house with no top.

Tyler

 

David,
I'm looking into materials for this style of box (at least just the lower tray) and to accomodate a hopeful future Monster D&RG K-xx I would need 3 inch angles. Expensive stuff, I have a Break that I could bend up a lot of angle from sheet for far less. But in imagining this thing I came up with a question. How much does the floor of the open end flex with the weight of the loco in there? wondering If I would need a stiffening stringer to run across the bottom to keep it from trying to sag or roll up when I carry a wider box with a heavier loco.

Tyler

 

Tyler,
I don't think that the flexing is an issue.
For example, on a 50" carrier, I make the floor piece 41", so there is only 9" that is without a floor underneath.
The floor seems to be stiff enough that there is no apparent flex.
I use .080 aluminum for the floor, but you can always go with a thicker material if you are concerned.
I would be more concerned about the overall weight of the carrier with the loco full of water and fuel, and whether you can lift it comfortably.
Maybe do some calculations first before you start building.
Cheers,
David Leech

 

 

Tyler,

I have an Accucraft K-27 that I think weights 33 lb with tender. I also have a GS-4 that (according to the Accucraft legacy pages) weighs 29 lb with tender.

I have one of David Leech's carriers for my GS-4 (but not for the K-27) and it's at the limit of what I would want to try to carry around with one hand, as is required with David's style of carrier, so I wouldn't want to try carrying my K-27 in one of those style carriers. The problem comes from trying to lift the carrier over the load-in height of my car's trunk or lifting the carrier up onto a tall steamup track (my home track is 40" high).

If you build separate carriers for both the locomotive and tender to reduce the weight lifted, it defeats the best feature of David's design, which is that one can load or remove a hot or cold locomotive and tender directly to or from the steam-up track without having to fiddle around with drawbar and hose connections while on the track.

I suggest that a possible modification to David's design that provides two hand-holds perpendicular to the long axis of the carrier with one hand-hold at each end of the carrier rather than the single hand-hold parallel to and in the center of the carrier would make handling a heavy (and long) locomotive and tender more feasible.

Jeff

 

Couldn't you modify the two straps to give you two handholds? What I am thinking is to take the two u shaped straps the handle is attached to and remove the part at the top. Actually Just make 4 straps the height of the U. Now take two pieces of PVC pipe and connect across the top. That would give you two handles to grab hold of. I do not think the attachment points are critical, so you could move them to a more comfortable distance.

 

I was thinking of incorporating those features like mentioned to have a two handed lift option for taller placements, and a one handed briefcase option for walking.

 

I find that with my handles, I use them both ways.
Two handed when lifting out of the car etc., or one handed when open doors and going through doorways.
There are so many different ways and you will all find what works for you.
Cheers,
David Leech, Canada