The C-25 tender has a dry compartment in the rear for R/C components with switch mounts under the lid to the water filler tub. Also, there is a dry tube from the compartment to the front of the tender for servo wire passage. Entrance to the compartment to install R/C components such as the receiver, batteries and switches is not intuitive and a mystery. Anyone know how to enter the compartment? Luckilly, the cab is large enough to hold all the R/C components.
C-25 Tender
weaverc
21 - 26 of 26 Posts
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8,406 Posts
just curious as to why the use of a chain drive?
When I did my first conversion (Accu C-16) I used a regular rod and lever arrangement, but there was some debate about how much the throttle needs to be opened on an Accucraft loco.
Time has shown (me at least) that 90 degrees is adequate.
However, with the chain drive, you get the gear ratio of the chain sprockets to multiply the action of the servo. In theory, a strong servo could use a 3:1 ratio (16 tooth on the throttle, 48 tooth on the servo) and can turn the throttle 270 deg. In practice, I use 16:20 (4:5) so I get 120 deg of throttle on a relatively ordinary 90 deg servo.
P.S. I have since found a 180 deg servo for $3.40 at Hobbyking in HK, so we'll see what that does.
When I did my first conversion (Accu C-16) I used a regular rod and lever arrangement, but there was some debate about how much the throttle needs to be opened on an Accucraft loco.
Time has shown (me at least) that 90 degrees is adequate.
However, with the chain drive, you get the gear ratio of the chain sprockets to multiply the action of the servo. In theory, a strong servo could use a 3:1 ratio (16 tooth on the throttle, 48 tooth on the servo) and can turn the throttle 270 deg. In practice, I use 16:20 (4:5) so I get 120 deg of throttle on a relatively ordinary 90 deg servo.
P.S. I have since found a 180 deg servo for $3.40 at Hobbyking in HK, so we'll see what that does.
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8,406 Posts
RJD,
Two answers - sorry it took so long.
Hobbyking is in Hong Kong, but ship (sometimes) from a US wharehouse but usually by post from HK. I've had no problems doing business with them.
Larry's solution to the water slop problem:
![Image]()
The red arrow points to a strip of plastic he glued under the lid. Why? Glad you asked . .
![Image]()
He found the back vertical panel is 3/16" lower than the top of the tender that covers the water bath. I added the blue line and red arrow above. His plastic strip seals the gap between the top and the back, reducing slop ! Ingenious.
You might also notice the clip for the water pump lever behind the upright panel and the battery pack for the lights. What you don't see is all the detailing on the tender and the owl . . . Wait a mo, maybe I have one of them. . .
![Image]()
Two answers - sorry it took so long.
Hobbyking is in Hong Kong, but ship (sometimes) from a US wharehouse but usually by post from HK. I've had no problems doing business with them.
Larry's solution to the water slop problem:
The red arrow points to a strip of plastic he glued under the lid. Why? Glad you asked . .
He found the back vertical panel is 3/16" lower than the top of the tender that covers the water bath. I added the blue line and red arrow above. His plastic strip seals the gap between the top and the back, reducing slop ! Ingenious.
You might also notice the clip for the water pump lever behind the upright panel and the battery pack for the lights. What you don't see is all the detailing on the tender and the owl . . . Wait a mo, maybe I have one of them. . .
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349 Posts
So has anybody unbolted the tank from the frame to find out what is going on under there?
Andre
Andre
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5,756 Posts
Thanks for the pics Pete. My EBT showed up Thurs and of course I was not able to fire it up. Throttle valve broke off so Cliff sending new one. I did round up the R/C ewuip to start that project. Stay turned as I got maybe another way to do. Later RJD
21 - 26 of 26 Posts
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