[sdelaroq]

I ordered a nano areogel sheet to replace the asbestos sheet and stared to cut a paper template

And replaced all gaskets of the boiler by new ones cut in a silicone sheet, added teflon tape to threads of blower and regulator valves

 

[sdelaroq]

Thank you It is not running yet, I am still in research of fixing the left crosshead or getting a new one!
Yes I downloaded the assembly instructions from fred's website

 

[sdelaroq]

Oh my god! That's great!!
Mine is also misaligned from the top
I could bend the nut so the piston axle and the slider are nearly parallel from the side but not from above

 

[sdelaroq]

moved to answer to Pete

 

[sdelaroq]

I hope you replaced the steel bolts, which rot away. First thing they told me when I got a used 'Reno'.

Oh Pete I missed your message, sorry
I replaced the genuine bolts by inox ones, maybe I should get some brass bolts instead?

Thanks for your help

 

[sdelaroq]

Sebastien, En Anglais l'inox s'appelle stainless steel. Sebastian, in English Inox is called stainless steel.
Where abouts are you in France? I have a good friend in le Havre who might help you if you are in Rouen. By the way we now have created Gauge 1 Model Railway Association-France. Where you can meet other modelers and get a great deal of help. as well as on this forum. Good job restoring the Schools.

Thanks! Yes I live in Rouen which is not too far from Le Havre
I will have a look at G1MRA soon, thanks for pointing this out 😊

 

[sdelaroq]

I tried bending the nut but I'm afraid to destroy it
Do you know the thread specs of this nut? I measured a #2-48 but this size doesn't seem to be available at least online
If we could screw a rod in the nut and apply force with pliers on the slider I think we could make it straight
Do you plan to build your schools soon? What a great find!!

 

[sdelaroq]

While you have everything disassembled it's a good time to do two improvement tasks which, in my opinion, would make your operation of the Schools more enjoyable. The first task is to alter the profile of the throttle spindle to make its tip a more slender (pointy) cone. This will give you more subtle steam admission adjustments so the loco is less 'full on/full off'. The second task would be to replace the knobs with levers. The levers give you a more sensitive touch when making throttle and blower adjustments, they stay cooler than the brass knobs, and they give you a visual index of the throttle and blower settings.

I do not own any tools (nor skills) allowing to make these modifcations. I think these modifications are mandatory for me because in the short term I would like to run it slowly on a rollertester
Do you know anybody who sells these improved levers and spindle ?

 

[sdelaroq]

If it were me, I would thread a bit of rod to fit the "nut", hold it in a vise and grip the crosshead shoe with some suitable needle nose and just try bending it to profile. It doesn't look like things need to move too far.

I would have liked to do this but couldn't find the threading reference. I thought it was #2-56 (UNC) and bought a #2-56 threaded rod but the threading is not coarse enough :/

 

[sdelaroq]

Aster are freaks about screw size. They use all kinds of screw sizes some of which are very difficult to find taps and dies. We build up our stock of taps and dies with time and help each other out whenever possible. it would be nice if they kept to a few standard sizes and would help repairs and maintenance tremendously. I can imagine that in some circumstances they have to use an odd size but in many cases it is not necessary. Why use M1,7 when M1,6 is now fairly standard for instance?

I was astonished discovering there's M2.6 screws and nuts in the Schools parts. I couldn't find any source of this anywhere...

 

[sdelaroq]

Hi Sébastien：
I don't think bending the nut will harm the crosshead. You can try bending them a bit. They are not so fragile. I won't build this kit. I plan to permanently collect it.

this is a really nice item to collect! many thanks for the photo, it looks really great
Is it 100% complete?

 

[sdelaroq]

The thread is Metric.
It seems to be M2.3 x 0.40 as that screw fits into it, but I wonder if Aster actually used the M2.2 x 0.45 as my tap is very tight?
Maybe Ryan Bednarik will reply?
Regards,
David Leech

I will try to get some of these and I'll report here, thanks!

 

[sdelaroq]

Bien joué
Excellent job of bringing it back to life.
As you say, the wicks need adjusting, I always reckon that they should be as high above the burner pipe as the diameter of the pipe.
Do you have the original assembly instructions to help you with the re-assembly?
All the best,
David Leech, Canada

What kind of wicks do you advise me to get? cotton, ceramic?...
For this test I used cabinetmaker's cotton wick

 

[sdelaroq]

This is the throttle on my Reno when I got it. It uses the same brass knobs, but with this handle it is much easier to control.
The bar is attached to a black metal clamp (second pic,) and there is a grub screw in the end (first pic.)

View attachment 71225


View attachment 71226

I seem to recall a similar bar just bolted to the brass knob - 2 holes, drilled either side - on another loco.

I have preference for this mounting because it is non destructive
Thanks to both of you

 

[sdelaroq]

Hello! I followed Rob's advice by making a throttle lever and thank's Pete for the screw tip!
I threaded the inner of a 3mm copper tube to M2.5 and filed half of the tube on 1.2cm length to insert the throttle disc (1.2cm is the diameter of the disc)
(I can't join images, don't know why so I add links)
https://photos.app.goo.gl/m4y58pt2LhQ3xVrGA

Adjusted to disc:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/psX6PmJCfhNLqrRa8

And screwed on the throttle. I wish it will be strong enough... I'll adjust length and will shorten the screw later
https://photos.app.goo.gl/THt5VQ3asQuqiLsf6

I also made a drawbar pin because it was missing using the same copper tube that I threaded to M2.5
https://photos.app.goo.gl/7PnP7j7pba543Fh86

and

https://photos.app.goo.gl/FLbC1S4ehvYGfFUX7

Edit: I cound insert the images this evening

 

[sdelaroq]

Regarding the burner I could get nice blue steady flames using the asbestos wicks and following Dave's advice: not too many and the diameter of the burner higher:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/zGchyLNRLjhhWuQZ6

I tried reproducing with cotton wicks but couldn't :/ what kind of wicks do you use?

 

[sdelaroq]

I tested the boiler and it appears to be good

Here's how I tested it:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/zGchyLNRLjhhWuQZ6

And here's a small video. I'm happy!! I'm now more and more confident my School will run soon
https://photos.app.goo.gl/zGchyLNRLjhhWuQZ6

 

[sdelaroq]

Not only were their jigs out in the older models these cross heads are from a newer B1 model.
View attachment 71218

Could you fix it or did you ask for a replacement?

 

[sdelaroq]

I forgot to add the video