deleted
AccuCraft Royal Hudson finally arrove!
tacfoley
21 - 40 of 41 Posts
I have now run out of kidneys to sell, and since I have no hair to speak off, wigs are out, too. I would sell my knowledge, but that's all used up anyhow, and as for selling my wit, well, that was never on the cards.
Terry, you always crack me up.
![Image]()
Terry, you always crack me up.
Joined
·
3,537 Posts
Tac,
You mention building a box for your Royal Hudson.
Well here is my new and improved Hot Loco Carrier and Box for my Royal Hudson.
The idea is that I found my original Hot Loco Carrier had a couple of shortcomings. I used to drape an old towel over the engine and tender to keep it from getting scratched, but it still would allow the loco to rock side to side, and then also I couldn't open up the cab of my Royal Hudson, because the handle got in the way.
So here we have the new version.
Photo 1: To carry the loco around in the car, the protective 1/4" ply cover is on.
![Image]()
Photo 2: The handle is long so that it is easy to balance a long loco. The handle is held on to the base by four plastic buckle clips.
![Image]()
Photo 3: With the handle off the box has a flat top in case you need to pack stuff on top in the car and the handle gets in the way.
![Image]()
Photo 4: The clips on each end hold the 'clam shell' cover together. The cover can then be hinged open on the 'lift off' hinges. The foam is placed so that it will hold the loco tight enough to stop it from moving.
![Image]()
Photo 5: The covers can be removed at any time from just open, to fully open. They just slide to one side to unhinge them.
![Image]()
Photo 6: The handle can then be reattached so that the loco can be carried to and from the track.
![Image]()
Photo 7: The loco is attached to a coupler at the tender end. The dowel is to lift up the rear of the carrier, and is connected by a piece of string to prevent loss.
![Image]()
Photo 8: With the rear lifted up, the front end chamfers blend in with the track.
![Image]()
Photo 9: The loco can then be uncoupled and will roll onto the track.
![Image]()
Photo 10: When the engine is in place on the carrier, the handle can be removed so that the cab can be opened should you need to work on the loco.
![Image]()
Photo 11: And with the handles removed they can be stacked. Especially useful for when in the car
![Image]()
All the best,
David Leech,
Delta, Canada
You mention building a box for your Royal Hudson.
Well here is my new and improved Hot Loco Carrier and Box for my Royal Hudson.
The idea is that I found my original Hot Loco Carrier had a couple of shortcomings. I used to drape an old towel over the engine and tender to keep it from getting scratched, but it still would allow the loco to rock side to side, and then also I couldn't open up the cab of my Royal Hudson, because the handle got in the way.
So here we have the new version.
Photo 1: To carry the loco around in the car, the protective 1/4" ply cover is on.
Photo 2: The handle is long so that it is easy to balance a long loco. The handle is held on to the base by four plastic buckle clips.
Photo 3: With the handle off the box has a flat top in case you need to pack stuff on top in the car and the handle gets in the way.
Photo 4: The clips on each end hold the 'clam shell' cover together. The cover can then be hinged open on the 'lift off' hinges. The foam is placed so that it will hold the loco tight enough to stop it from moving.
Photo 5: The covers can be removed at any time from just open, to fully open. They just slide to one side to unhinge them.
Photo 6: The handle can then be reattached so that the loco can be carried to and from the track.
Photo 7: The loco is attached to a coupler at the tender end. The dowel is to lift up the rear of the carrier, and is connected by a piece of string to prevent loss.
Photo 8: With the rear lifted up, the front end chamfers blend in with the track.
Photo 9: The loco can then be uncoupled and will roll onto the track.
Photo 10: When the engine is in place on the carrier, the handle can be removed so that the cab can be opened should you need to work on the loco.
Photo 11: And with the handles removed they can be stacked. Especially useful for when in the car
All the best,
David Leech,
Delta, Canada
Joined
·
3,537 Posts
Posted By tacfoley on 03/07/2009 6:15 AM
OK, Mr Leech - I'll bite.
1. Where do you get the light alloy channel?
2. Where do you get the plastic buckles?
3. Where on earth do you get the spare couplings?
Over here I wouldn't have the faintest idea where to start to make a beautiful carrier like that.
Thanks for the piccies, anyhow.
Best
tac
www.ovgrs.org
Well Tac,
1. I would try a metal supply store like Metals4U.
2. I get mine at a camping supply store.
3. Its just a Kadee coupler, but Accucraft are supposed to be making theirs available.
There you are, now you can get started.
Regards
David Leech,
Delta, Canada
OK, Mr Leech - I'll bite.
1. Where do you get the light alloy channel?
2. Where do you get the plastic buckles?
3. Where on earth do you get the spare couplings?
Over here I wouldn't have the faintest idea where to start to make a beautiful carrier like that.
Thanks for the piccies, anyhow.
Best
tac
www.ovgrs.org
Well Tac,
1. I would try a metal supply store like Metals4U.
2. I get mine at a camping supply store.
3. Its just a Kadee coupler, but Accucraft are supposed to be making theirs available.
There you are, now you can get started.
Regards
David Leech,
Delta, Canada
Joined
·
1,075 Posts
Posted By tacfoley on 03/07/2009 10:21 AM
Uh, right.
![Image]()
1. We don't have stores like Metals4U here in my part of the UK [a bit like Albania, but flatter, and not so friendly]. In fact, I don't think we have a store like Metals4U anywhere in the entire United Kingdom.
2. I CAN buy buckles like that at a 'camping supply store' but they come with pants attached.
3. I gave up trying to find Kadee couplers here years ago - that's have to wait until next time I'm in their part of Oregon later this year...
Well, I DO have the loco, so that's a start, I guess.
I hafta say that it looks just great and is VERY workmanlike and effective - you wouldn't have any dimensional data, would you?
Best
tac
http://www.ovgrs.org/
Hi Tac,
Hobby's sell some bits for cases, have a look under Materials Box fixtures at http://www.hobby.co.uk/; there are catches but not the plastic ones alas, and some handles.
I can get Kadee couplings from Bay Models, at Carnforth: which will require a phone call, he is a bit slow re e-mails, my last (a couple of weeks ago )were 830's at £7 per pair. For the 'ally' angle B&Q may be able to supply from their bits range - I use the plastuc stuff ob buildings and noted the 'ally' range but not the sizes!
David also sent me a note in reply to my questions direct - he has said that I can put it up here - so here it is from his note - Thanks David,
The aluminum angle is 2" on the bottom, and 1 1/2" on the sides and 1/8" thickness.
For the Royal Hudson, i had to make it 37" long The plate that holds them together is 30' long and the chamfer needs to be about 5".
I just use a router on a router table with a 1/2" diameter cutter with lots of cutting fluid to cut the chamfer.
The trick is to NOT make it too thin at the end or the aluminum becomes a little weak to take the weight of an engine when the back end of the carrier is lifted.
The attached is one that I made for someone in the UK that is my 'normal' Hot Loco Carrier that is without a box, and folding handles for storage when not in use. Pieces of wood are held behind the clamps on the sides to hold the loco in place. Works with buffers, not too well with bufferless locos.
There are 3 extra photos as well: I have reduced them so they will load straight in.
David's original posting is at the following link, which is also very helpful -
http://www.mylargescale.com/Community/Forums/tabid/56/forumid/11/tpage/1/view/topic/postid/67537/Default.aspx#67554
Uh, right.
1. We don't have stores like Metals4U here in my part of the UK [a bit like Albania, but flatter, and not so friendly]. In fact, I don't think we have a store like Metals4U anywhere in the entire United Kingdom.
2. I CAN buy buckles like that at a 'camping supply store' but they come with pants attached.
3. I gave up trying to find Kadee couplers here years ago - that's have to wait until next time I'm in their part of Oregon later this year...
Well, I DO have the loco, so that's a start, I guess.
I hafta say that it looks just great and is VERY workmanlike and effective - you wouldn't have any dimensional data, would you?
Best
tac
http://www.ovgrs.org/
Hi Tac,
Hobby's sell some bits for cases, have a look under Materials Box fixtures at http://www.hobby.co.uk/; there are catches but not the plastic ones alas, and some handles.
I can get Kadee couplings from Bay Models, at Carnforth: which will require a phone call, he is a bit slow re e-mails, my last (a couple of weeks ago )were 830's at £7 per pair. For the 'ally' angle B&Q may be able to supply from their bits range - I use the plastuc stuff ob buildings and noted the 'ally' range but not the sizes!
David also sent me a note in reply to my questions direct - he has said that I can put it up here - so here it is from his note - Thanks David,
The aluminum angle is 2" on the bottom, and 1 1/2" on the sides and 1/8" thickness.
For the Royal Hudson, i had to make it 37" long The plate that holds them together is 30' long and the chamfer needs to be about 5".
I just use a router on a router table with a 1/2" diameter cutter with lots of cutting fluid to cut the chamfer.
The trick is to NOT make it too thin at the end or the aluminum becomes a little weak to take the weight of an engine when the back end of the carrier is lifted.
The attached is one that I made for someone in the UK that is my 'normal' Hot Loco Carrier that is without a box, and folding handles for storage when not in use. Pieces of wood are held behind the clamps on the sides to hold the loco in place. Works with buffers, not too well with bufferless locos.
There are 3 extra photos as well: I have reduced them so they will load straight in.
David's original posting is at the following link, which is also very helpful -
http://www.mylargescale.com/Community/Forums/tabid/56/forumid/11/tpage/1/view/topic/postid/67537/Default.aspx#67554
Attachments
Joined
·
59 Posts
We always make a transport and storage box for my locomotives and my own coaches / cars. I have attached a few pictures to show some of the details. They are made from "Baltic Plywood" which is supplied in various common thicknesses and the standard sheets are 5 feet square. The plywood is finer than most and is sometimes refered to as Modellers Baltic Plywood. The fittings can be bought at most hardware stores here in Canada or by mail order from Lee Valley Tools http://www.leevalley.com/
Once the outside box is comlete I hand it over to my wife who stains and varnishes the outside before lining the inside. The box is sized so that when lined with 1 inch lining of foam on the sides, ends and top the loco is gently secured. After Phyl has glued in the foam she then attaches the velvet material to the box which allows it to move over the foam without becoming tight. After a couple of days the loco seats itself into the foam as can be seen.
For coaches / cars we make a series of boxes that stack coaches 4 wide and 3 layers high. Each layer is attached to the one above using similar clasps to those on the loco boxes. Boxes are varnished and lined in a similar maner.
![Image]()
Royal Hudson Box (No carrying handle because of weight of loco)
![Image]()
![Image]()
Mallard and Flying Scotsman boxes
![Image]()
![Image]()
Once the outside box is comlete I hand it over to my wife who stains and varnishes the outside before lining the inside. The box is sized so that when lined with 1 inch lining of foam on the sides, ends and top the loco is gently secured. After Phyl has glued in the foam she then attaches the velvet material to the box which allows it to move over the foam without becoming tight. After a couple of days the loco seats itself into the foam as can be seen.
For coaches / cars we make a series of boxes that stack coaches 4 wide and 3 layers high. Each layer is attached to the one above using similar clasps to those on the loco boxes. Boxes are varnished and lined in a similar maner.
Royal Hudson Box (No carrying handle because of weight of loco)
Mallard and Flying Scotsman boxes
Joined
·
505 Posts
David and all
nice job on the new carrier
See you in Portland
jim
nice job on the new carrier
See you in Portland
jim
Joined
·
78 Posts
Does anybody have pictures of this type of a box with the locomotive removed? I would like to see how you keep the two aluminum angle channels together, and how do they hold the weight of the locomotive and still be so low profile that you can place it on the track.
I would like to build something like this before I take my K36 to a track. I would love to see more pictures of this or similar designs so that I can make one this weekend! ;-)
Thank you!
I would like to build something like this before I take my K36 to a track. I would love to see more pictures of this or similar designs so that I can make one this weekend! ;-)
Thank you!
Joined
·
624 Posts
Not sure this is what you are looking for but I've built a variety of carriers for taking locos to tracks. Not sophisticated and every one is different but they do the job for me. I use 1" or 1.5" aluminium angle and hold them together with two or three 3/16" strips. I glue (epoxy) and screw and it seems to manage the weight easily.
![Image]()
![Image]()
![Image]()
@import url(http://www.mylargescale.com/Provide...rProviders/CEHtmlEditorProvider/Load.ashx?type=style&file=SyntaxHighlighter.css);@import url(/providers/htmleditorproviders/cehtmleditorprovider/dnngeneral.css);
@import url(http://www.mylargescale.com/Provide...rProviders/CEHtmlEditorProvider/Load.ashx?type=style&file=SyntaxHighlighter.css);@import url(/providers/htmleditorproviders/cehtmleditorprovider/dnngeneral.css);
Joined
·
3,537 Posts
Hi Gigawat,
Here are a couple of detail shots of my carriers.
As you can see, there are many ways to make them.
I use an aluminum sheet that stops about 7 inches short of the front end to hold the channels together.
This is screwed in from underneath, and the pointed ends of the screws cut off so that you can't catch your fingers on them.
The end few inches of the channel is chamfered underneath to allow it to fit between the rails, and also to allow the least amount of 'bump' as possible.
Good luck with your build.
All the best,
David Leech, Delta, Canada
![Image]()
![Image]()
Here are a couple of detail shots of my carriers.
As you can see, there are many ways to make them.
I use an aluminum sheet that stops about 7 inches short of the front end to hold the channels together.
This is screwed in from underneath, and the pointed ends of the screws cut off so that you can't catch your fingers on them.
The end few inches of the channel is chamfered underneath to allow it to fit between the rails, and also to allow the least amount of 'bump' as possible.
Good luck with your build.
All the best,
David Leech, Delta, Canada
Joined
·
3,537 Posts
Also, on locos that have suitable couplers, I mount a coupler on the back end of the carrier to hold the loco in.
The dowel on the string is to 'lift' the back end of the box to allow the loco to be rolled on and off.
All the best,
David Leech, Delta, Canada
![Image]()
The dowel on the string is to 'lift' the back end of the box to allow the loco to be rolled on and off.
All the best,
David Leech, Delta, Canada
21 - 40 of 41 Posts
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
