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Discussion Starter · #1 ·


What do I need to buy to make the one on the right fit into filler valves designed for the one on the left?
 

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As long as the nozzle on the can is able to reach the valve, about 50 to 75% of the time it should just work (that number used to be higher in my experience, but I've had a few batches of butane cans lately that seem to have looser tolerances). What will happen the rest of the time is that the opening in the tip of the nozzle on the can is too large to properly engage the fuel valve.

Some Accucraft engines have the fuel filler in harder-to-reach locations where the side of the cab or tender prevents the can from reaching the filler valve. Usually in those cases, Accucraft will ship an extension tube that works pretty well, and it usually solves the too-large nozzle opening issue too.

There are also adapters you can buy that attach to the top of the can, but I've never had any luck getting them seal properly, so I don't recommend them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Yeah, the Coleman can is just too bulky to get inside my AML tender - Had the same problem with my Roundhouse Sammie, which fuels through a small hole in the cab roof. The feeder just needs to be 1/2" longer.
 

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What do I need to buy to make the one on the right fit into filler valves designed for the one on the left?
I use the type on the right - conventional butane stove gas. I have 3 or 4 adaptors. Here are 2 of them, that I use in FL and made myself from various parts.




Both have a gas can fitting designed to make a butane can like a camping gaz can, so it fits a camping stove. I got mine from a camping store in the UK, but I recently found them on aliexpress:

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Out..._9&btsid=0ce82640-71db-4c2f-a896-fab74738aaf5





That adaptor is similar to the other kind, sold by one or two US suppliers (and aliexpress):

These do NOT have a valve in them - they are purely an adaptor. (The valve I am referring to will turn on the gas when you open it - many of these open the valve when you press them down on the Ronson filler valve.) The first type - the one I use - opens the internal butane can valve when you twist it on to the can.

In my pic, the one on the left has a Dunhill Lighter adaptor, designed for filling cigarette lighters from a camping gaz can (!) It has a built-in valve, so you can just clip it to the can and press it to the Ronson valve on your loco. I think I found it at a cigar store, but google has no trace of them. They do show a Primus adaptor:

https://www.fruugo.us/primus-fillin...pZQHLD-PuH6vppoK8LM4yoXi8Jsxf4fOAfhoCMRbw_wcB

Which may or may not have a valve in it - I have not tried it. (My pal may be trying it - Jerry?)

My other one has no valve - you set it up and press/twist the can adaptor into place. The loco end has an Accucraft gas adaptor pipe and some soldered tube(s) to make it easier to grip and to push down on the Ronson valve. There's a plastic piece at the can end to connect the pipe to the can - I recall that was fiddley to make gas-tight. [Accucraft used to supply the pipe with some of their locos, but no longer seem to do so. It's pretty useless on its own, as neither end is stable or designed to grip - you end up pressing the can on two unstable joints, with predictable results.]

Googling "Accucraft gas filling tube" produced a number of alternatives (I recommend you try it.) One is this adaptor, designed for camping gaz threaded valves (I think):



Jerry uses one of them on one of the circular can adaptors. I believe you can buy these from Jason at The Train Dept.

The google search also came up with a german-made adaptor sold in the UK.
 

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Gas can adopters

It is easy to make adopters.

I make mine from hex brass and copper tube as shown in picture.

Drill a hole in the hex rod to fit the can stem. Drill the tube end to fit the gas tank filler valve stem. You can make any length needed. I use loctite PST 592 sealer to attach the adopter to the can stem.

Just twist off when can is empty to use again.

Gerald Pierce
 

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I make mine from hex brass and copper tube as shown in picture.
Ger,
I have tried that, but without the loctite sealant. As my EBT #12 uses almost a full can to fill the tank, I always wanted to be flexible and make it easy to move on to the next can.

I guess it only takes another dab of sealant on the next can, so I can see it would work.
 

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Chris, I'm curious how you made it work? I found it impossible to hold while keeping the loco stable and the can in the right place.
Place filler pipe on gas tank with right hand (left if your lefty)
Place gas can on other end
While continuing to hold pipe with thumb, index (maybe middle finger too depending on experience and confidence level) position heel of right hand on top of engine or tender (gas tank location) to hold it steady.
Press down to release gas in can to gas tank.
Worst are loco gas tanks located on one side of the tender or loco cab.

Hope that helps. Took me a while to discover through trial and error the right coordination. I quite a collection of gas filler things. Most are held in a plastic bag there to rot. a few that seem to work a still in my steaming box. I just grab one. Sometimes they work and other times they don't. The Accucraft pipe is still my go to. Altitude, humidity, temperature, gas can and who only knows seems to affect various filler things. But the Accucraft seems to work every time.

I love that you posted the bayonet-to-threaded adapter in two colors. Cool. Threaded adapters should be easier and they are in one way. You can firmly attach the filler thing to the can. But I've found a variety of those types off filler things (your last two photos) get fouled up and won't allow the gas to flow. I have two of the bayonet adapters haven't use one in some time because. And since I don't often use mixed fuels so little use of the threaded adapters I have. But with threaded mixed fuel cans I seem to plagued with having to try 2 or 3 to find one that works. Probably if I used them more I'd have figured them out. I actually think a bit of lube on screw on adapters would get them working fine since they have an o-ring that, I believe (my theory), left to their own will stick with accumulation of the residue of butane.

There is one big downside to my pursuit of and collection of the best perfect gas can adapters. I have a hex over my head. I can find a way to lose things always at the time I need them. So my defense is to order two of anything. So you can imagine I have quite a collection of adapters. Among other things.

Hope that helps.

PS Occurs to me you could add a length of plastic tube to the gas can end of the Accucraft pipe so it slips on the can nozzle and pipe. It would greatly help keeping the pipe attached to the can.
 

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Chris, I'm curious how you made it work? I found it impossible to hold while keeping the loco stable and the can in the right place.
Place filler pipe on gas tank with right hand (left if your lefty)
Place gas can on other end
While continuing to hold pipe with thumb, index (maybe middle finger too depending on experience and confidence level) position heel of right hand on top of engine or tender (gas tank location)

Hope that helps. Took me a while to discover through trial and error the right coordination. I quite a collection of gas filler things. Most are held in a plastic bag there to rot. a few that seem to work a still in my steaming box. I just grab one. Sometimes they work and other times they don't. The Accucraft pipe is still my go to. Altitude, humidity, temperature, gas can and who only knows seems to affect various filler things. But the Accucraft seems to work every time.

I love that you posted the bayonet-to-threaded adapter in two colors. Cool. Threaded adapters should be easier and they are in one way. You can firmly attach the filler thing to the can. But I've found a variety of those types off filler things (your last two photos) get fouled up and won't allow the gas to flow. I have two of the bayonet adapters haven't use one in some time because. And since I don't often use mixed fuels so little use of the threaded adapters I have. But with threaded mixed fuel cans I seem to plagued with having to try 2 or 3 to find one that works. Probably if I used them more I'd have figured them out. I actually think a bit of lube on screw on adapters would get them working fine since they have an o-ring that, I believe (my theory), left to their own will stick with accumulation of the residue of butane.

Hope that helps.
 

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Down here we make a simple adaptor in Teflon rod 10mm diameter, drilled in one end 4mm to fit the can spout and then drilled through 1.5mm to the other end, very small chamfer on this end so it seals on the filler valve tip and thin down this end to about 4mm diameter for access , changing cans is just twist off and push on.. the slight natural softness of the Teflon seals very well.
 

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PS Occurs to me you could add a length of plastic tube to the gas can end of the Accucraft pipe so it slips on the can nozzle and pipe. It would greatly help keeping the pipe attached to the can.
OK. So which end is the "gas can end"? The big flat end or the thin bit?

I think Gerald's adaptor is much like that concept, and I've tried adding a 'sheath' at the can to hold it in place. Without a seal around the can spout, you get a lot of leakage - which Gerald solved by adding sealant, and which Gordon (Taperpin) solved by using Teflon. I think most of my adaptors have a small O-ring to seal the fit.
 

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gotta deal with the Queen!
Tried to get around the money defacing thingy and carried home a brown paper bag on the passenger side, cost me a lot of convincing story that after i got pulled over to explain to the law that all i try to do was to prevent the bottle breaking in the trunk and destroying my brown :paper gasket!
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
The solution

After seeing Mr. Jenkin's Accucraft adapter in person, I decided to make my own from some spare K&S tubing and a little household plumbing pipe.



The silicon tube is an old bit of Sullivan fuel line from my U-control aircraft days. It's needed on both ends to prevent leaks. The washers in the middle were needed to prevent the silicon tube from walking while I pressed the copper sleeve onto it.

Lots of trial & error involved, but it works.
 

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