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Posted By lownote on 07 Sep 2009 05:17 AM
That being said, it still looks easier to me than Toddallin's analog solution, which I frankly would have a very hard time installing. That's my fault, not the solution's fault.





Do you let your wife read the road map?


Would it be easier if I removed all the extra contacts, and color coded all of the wires?
 

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Posted By Greg Elmassian on 06 Sep 2009 10:06 AM
Isn't that great? We managed to steer it back to the original topic, and find the answer to the original question. The answer is the Massoth autoreverser.... of course not the cheapest, but the simplest was requested.

Greg

I think you guys are still doing it the hard way.. With all of the elecronics stuff to hook this up and that up and run this and change that.....

My idea is just use four aligatoron two 6 foot wire for jumper, with nbr. 10 solid wire. Cut both rails on the tracks with a Hacksaw w/4800 tooth blade. ( that way it won't make any marks on the track..). Oh..cut track after the switch's going to the loop. Four rails would be fine....You know the part... where the train goes in loop.

Turn off power supply. Move jumper to other side of loop and rev. the jumpers. Rev.the powersupply. Turn on power supply that is hooked up on main line.

The auto part of it is getting off the chair to do it.. See no problem..

Still on Auto........ Go back and set back on chair with a cool one and turn on the throttle. Watch the train run to the other end and back to Auto again..

OR.. NEXT BEST WAY LIKE GREG SUGGESTED.........

Sorry couldn't resist on all of this tech support. laf.
 

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Noel,

Don't laff too fast: I fully intend to make a reversing loop and use a pair of standard 4PST switches when the time comes. Bridge the handles with a T-bar, as in the old days.


That is, unless they come up with an IC called, oh, the 'Switcheroonie', say. This device will sense the oncoming train and rearrange its inward circuitry so the train passes the junction seamlessly and continues on. It will have screw-on terminals, mount between the ties but no higher, cost under $1.99, conduct up to 20 amps and carry a lifetime free-replacement warranty. It will be impossible to miswire to the track, again due to self-correcting internal circuits. And of course, a pilot light.

For an extra $129.95 it will have an optional port to connect it to a computer so the owner can boast of 'computer control at an affordable price'. The device will flip colors on a schematic representation at the appropriate time via a pop-up.


Ol' Vulp
 

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Great Les.... See and it Auto to.. Have to get off the chair or lean over to the Toggle.. But auto and works.. ...laf..
 

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Posted By toddalin on 07 Sep 2009 08:20 PM
Posted By lownote on 07 Sep 2009 05:17 AM
That being said, it still looks easier to me than Toddallin's analog solution, which I frankly would have a very hard time installing. That's my fault, not the solution's fault.





Do you let your wife read the road map?


Would it be easier if I removed all the extra contacts, and color coded all of the wires?

No need to be a jerk, is there? I mean, did you see where I wrote it was my fault, not the fault of the solution? Does your wife read for you?
 

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Posted By toddalin on 08 Sep 2009 06:42 PM
Posted By toddalin on 08 Sep 2009 06:35 PM
Posted By lownote on 08 Sep 2009 05:03 PM
Posted By toddalin on 07 Sep 2009 08:20 PM
Posted By lownote on 07 Sep 2009 05:17 AM
That being said, it still looks easier to me than Toddallin's analog solution, which I frankly would have a very hard time installing. That's my fault, not the solution's fault.





Do you let your wife read the road map?


Would it be easier if I removed all the extra contacts, and color coded all of the wires?

No need to be a jerk, is there? I mean, did you see where I wrote it was my fault, not the fault of the solution? Does your wife read for you?





I'm sorry. Was not meant as an insult. Sorry you took it that way.

To me, wiring (and simple simple electronics) is just another part of the hobby. I learned by doing and this is actually a very cheap and easy project to tackle to get one's feet wet.

My offer to simplify it to make it easier to follow, if that would help, was in ernest. I can even point ypu to the parts to make it work and where to get them on the net.

Again. sorry you were insulted.
 

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shown in the pic is the epl system from LGB.
the 1700s are reedcontacts with one AC entrance and two directional (with diodes) outputs, that activate the motors of the switches(120X0).
the addon-switches(12030) for the switchmotors change the current as needed.
 

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Hi Kormsen,

Thanks for clarifying that for me! I was trying to figure how that circuit would work with normal components. I thought perhaps the turnouts were spring-loaded, or had some sort of non-derailing feature.

Take care, Joe.
 

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with a little thought you can make something, that works in the same way, using all DC components. (needs some more wire)
in that case (using DC) you could as well replace reed contacts by simple weel contacts.
it all depends on the type of switch-motors, you are using.
 

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Thanks again for the help! I have wired regular relays to latch by using one pole of its contacts to keep the coil energized, then use another reed and relay to break the latching later, so that is my favorite technique. I have a book (somewhere) where it has a reverse loop circuit, but I don't know if it is all automated. Like a lot of things, once you get the problem solved, the solution seems easy. One thing I did learn, the hard, was to use a "snubber diode" across the relay DC coil to keep the reed's contacts from burning out.

Take care, Joe.
 

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Posted By Joe Rampolla on 18 Feb 2010 06:07 AM
...to use a "snubber diode" across the relay DC coil to keep the reed's contacts from burning out.


do you mean things like those red buttons, that i solderd in paralell to the reeds?


 

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Hi Kormsen and Greg,

Thanks for the replies! I am sorry that I don't know what those red buttons are. What I had happen was that a particular reed switch was sparking inside the glass tube, then burned out. (I am doing unusual things in O and S gauge.) I saw one time about what they called a "snubber" diode wired across the coil of a DC relay in "reverse bias" or against the normal direction of the current flow (just a regular 1N400X diode). (I am self-taught in electronics.) But I guess that a diode wired across the reed might protect the reed just as well? The diode across the relay's coil stopped the sparking in the reed. Now when I use AC with a reed and relay, I gather these MOV's are the solution? (I believe that my reeds are rated for the amount of current that they switch.) What are MOV's?

Thanks!

Take care, Joe
 

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Hi Folks,

I just Googled MOVs -- Metal Oxide Varistors.

At the top of this page:
http://www.allelectronics.com/index..._query=mov
what would be a good choice for approximately 12 -14 VAC coming from an old Lionel ZW transformer with a 12 VAC relay?

Any help in figuring a good rating would be very much appreciated! (Or I'll do what I usually do, buy several of different ratings and just "trial and error" it.)

Thanks!

Take care, Joe.
 

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as my electric installations on the layout are all by trial & error or by copying, all i know about those red buttons:
when i showed th original LGB reedswitch (the one in the background of the pic) to an electronic wizard, he told me, that they take part of the current, so that the reed itself gets not overloaded.

during the years i found out, that a reed, that is switching just one turnoutmotor holds for years. while one, that has two or more hooked on, burns out after a couple of months.
 
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