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Will this layout work? (my first)

1170 Views 39 Replies 8 Participants Last post by  Rick Wilking
I am planning on building this on my deck. I want to run two trains on two ovals, one inside the other. Will this work? Will my Tech 7 Ampac 760 be enough to power it? Any special wiring instructions? And to you real railroad experts what would the loops be called, mains or side tracks or what, I am trying to learn the terminology. I know the little dead end could be called a siding but correct the newbie if not!

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It does help. To be clear if I go with the Trackside 7 r/c I would need to also buy a power supply, yes? What one should I get if so?
and it appears I need a power supply for the no frills unit too?
Yes— all the Trackside does is modify power from another source, so you’d need a power supply still. I haven’t used the G Scale Graphics no frills units, but if I were starting over, that’s the one I would buy. That’s because a lot of the capabilities that you’re paying for in e.g., the USA trains power supply, are now covered by the remote (independent of any reliability issues).

One thing to be careful about is that, as far as I can tell, G scale graphics sells two versions of the remote, one for battery power and one for track power. It seems like they use R/C to refer to battery power and track power to refer to power from the rails. So make sure you buy the right one!
Yes— all the Trackside does is modify power from another source, so you’d need a power supply still. I haven’t used the G Scale Graphics no frills units, but if I were starting over, that’s the one I would buy. That’s because a lot of the capabilities that you’re paying for in e.g., the USA trains power supply, are now covered by the remote (independent of any reliability issues).

One thing to be careful about is that, as far as I can tell, G scale graphics sells two versions of the remote, one for battery power and one for track power. It seems like they use R/C to refer to battery power and track power to refer to power from the rails. So make sure you buy the right one!
ok thanks!
read this page:

you will see that the USAT power supply does not have a good track record, many people have had to have theirs repaired, so I cannot recommend it.

I can completely recommend anything from G Scale Graphics, good value and good quality.

Greg
Greg I see in your article you like one MRC but don't mention this one - any thoughts on it -
MRC Throttlepack 9950
I may have found some used LGB power packs, which model number do you get and I assume it works to run two locos?
I have the 5 amp power and 5 amp controller I bought used for $100.00US. 50111 is the power supply and can run LGB dc controllers or any of the LGB DCC controllers. LGB DC controller is the 51079.
I have the 5 amp power and 5 amp controller I bought used for $100.00US. 50111 is the power supply and can run LGB dc controllers or any of the LGB DCC controllers. LGB DC controller is the 51079.
Thanks for that!
It does help. To be clear if I go with the Trackside 7 r/c I would need to also buy a power supply, yes? What one should I get if so?
You can buy a switching power supply like this one RSP-320-24 MEAN WELL | Jameco Electronics , I use these with my g scale graphics trackside rc. I have versions 4,6,7. The power switching supplies are inexpensive, the biggest cost will be the Trackside rc. If you buy one make sure to buy the PWM to Linear DC Converter too. I turned down the voltage on my switching power supply from 24v to 19.5v, most have the ability to do this, because my Wiener dogs start wrestling and always end up derailing my engine and blowing the inline fuse I use. Check the amp output before buying one, mine are rated 13 amps.
Don't buy the MRC 9950, I had a couple of those and they worked ok. I ended up doing more research and should've just spent the money on something better. I even read Greg's website but would read it before bed so it would put me to sleep. Just kidding Greg. He has some good information. The 9950's found new homes for someone starting out in G-Scale.
Since you want to install on a deck....I have used the lgb track connectors that fit into the notch in the tie and keeps the track pieces together. Its LGB 11500. I have pets and kids. The tracks can be stepped on and take it well. But they disconnect. Part of LGB ads was that they had a Mercedes parked on the track :)
Font Rectangle Wood Brand Parallel

The 11500 connector is a cheap alternative to railclamps until you see the need for those.
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WOW had no idea these existed, great idea, cheap and will definitely make a difference! Ordering NOW!
These are directional, make sure the part number faces down!!
These are directional, make sure the part number faces down!!
good tip, thanks!
Back to my original question - how can I isolate the two loops from each other. Sometimes I will not want each train to run at the same time. The loops are connected of course by the switches. Or to be more specific, in my layout where would I put blocks in the inner loop and toggle switches to turn off power to that loop.
Lgb part 10260 insulates. It replaces joiner 10001. See the tab on the metal joiner, so it resists coming off the rail.
There are also insulator track pieces pre fab that have been made over the years, some looked like a grade crossing, some were accessories to signals and are just a short track with a gapped piece of rail. There are mainy examples of those, 1015u, 10152, 10153 etc
Mind you the 4 digit catalog numbers are now getting 40 years old, so unless you like the style buy a 5 digit catalog number.
Personally I would go with a track piece instead of the plastic joiners
Lgb part 10260 insulates. It replaces joiner 10001. See the tab on the metal joiner, so it resists coming off the rail.
There are also insulator track pieces pre fab that have been made over the years, some looked like a grade crossing, some were accessories to signals and are just a short track with a gapped piece of rail. There are mainy examples of those, 1015u, 10152, 10153 etc
Mind you the 4 digit catalog numbers are now getting 40 years old, so unless you like the style buy a 5 digit catalog number.
Personally I would go with a track piece instead of the plastic joiners
Good guidance. Where would I put the switches in my layout to turn power on and off to inside loop? And I guess I need two power supplies if I want to run the two trains independently?
Where would I put the switches in my layout to turn power on and off to inside loop? And I guess I need two power supplies if I want to run the two trains independently?
By switches I assume you mean electrical switches, not track switches that route your trains. The switches usually go between the track feed and the speed controller.
And yes, you will need two speed controllers, though not necessarily two power supplies if the loops are properly isolated and truly independant.
By switches I assume you mean electrical switches, not track switches that route your trains. The switches usually go between the track feed and the speed controller.
And yes, you will need two speed controllers, though not necessarily two power supplies if the loops are properly isolated and truly independant.
Yes electrical toggle switches is what I meant.
In that case please isolate both tracks, dont use the single track isolation
In that case please isolate both tracks, dont use the single track isolation
Ok so I don't mess this up where would I put those isolating blocks in my layout, could you mark that on my diagram? and then I would sent power to the inner loop from one power supply and another power supply to the outer loop and install on/off toggle switches on the wires from each power supply. Or I recently heard about selector switches but only see them for smaller scales. Are there selector switches for G? Right? Sorry being a pain!
At the bottom of the diagram you have two places where a train can move from one loop to the other. Put the blockers between the two switches that form the crossovers.

That is, anywhere the rail goes from one loop to the other you need to break the continuity. So there are four rails which require 4 breaks.

Hope this helps.
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Most helpful Rich, thanks. I will just isolate each turnout from the other in the two places they meet and should be good.
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