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Will this layout work? (my first)

1193 Views 39 Replies 8 Participants Last post by  Rick Wilking
I am planning on building this on my deck. I want to run two trains on two ovals, one inside the other. Will this work? Will my Tech 7 Ampac 760 be enough to power it? Any special wiring instructions? And to you real railroad experts what would the loops be called, mains or side tracks or what, I am trying to learn the terminology. I know the little dead end could be called a siding but correct the newbie if not!

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What locomotives will you run? That tells you how many amps you need.
Looks like you want to use LGB track?
Will you fasten the track to something?
I have two locos, a USA Trains R22469 GP30 and a USA Trains 44 ton switcher. I have LGB and Piko track. I wasn't planning on attaching it to the wooden deck but guess I could if need be. What would be the best way to that? I would want to take it up in winter (I am in Colorado).
loops be called, mains
Main line or mains is good. The side track is a siding.

Few g gauge locos exceed 2 amps, so check the output of your power pack. On a small layout like that you can't really load them up with a heavy 20 car train.

The track may move and the corners take strain from the moving loco. If the track is screwed or clamped together you shouldn't need to screw it down. If you are using regular push-in joiners, I'd suggest some brass or other non-rust screws on the outside of the curves at the corners. Not through the ties, as you have expansion/contraction to worry about.
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Main line or mains is good. The side track is a siding.

Few g gauge locos exceed 2 amps, so check the output of your power pack. On a small layout like that you can't really load them up with a heavy 20 car train.

The track may move and the corners take strain from the moving loco. If the track is screwed or clamped together you shouldn't need to screw it down. If you are using regular push-in joiners, I'd suggest some brass or other non-rust screws on the outside of the curves at the corners. Not through the ties, as you have expansion/contraction to worry about.
Thanks Pete for this very helpful answer, it will be great to add screws to corners only.
That power pack is 20 va total... (DC and the AC output).

Notice the list of scales supported, HO, N, Z....

Do not use it.

Greg
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That power pack is 20 va total... (DC and the AC output).

Notice the list of scales supported, HO, N, Z....

Do not use it.

Greg
Hi Greg,

Yes I know thats what it says. I bought it at a local shop who recommended it, and it seems to work find with the one small loco. What would be the harm in trying? I mean seriously, if it will damage my locos I'll get another, but whats the downside of trying please?
whats the downside of trying please?
No downside. (Greg just likes people to do things the "right" way.) The engines will just run more slowly and the power pack may get hot and cut out (depending on how it is protected.)
Honestly:

waste of money... will work with one small loco, you will be disappointed later.

If you have the money to throw away, more power to you.

Your local shop did you a disservice.

(I'm very sensitive to dealers giving a bum steer to people new to the hobby)

Greg
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Honestly:

waste of money... will work with one small loco, you will be disappointed later.

If you have the money to throw away, more power to you.

Your local shop did you a disservice.

(I'm very sensitive to dealers giving a bum steer to people new to the hobby)

Greg
Well its what I have. But I can eBay flip it and would welcome a suggestion for a replacement!
Unfortunately, there is a big gap between 1 amp units and 5-10 amp units.

The cheapest way is to find an old Aristo 10 or 15 amp throttle, and pair it up with an inexpensive power supply.

What I use is a lot more expensive, the MRC Power G, very nice, rugged, but expensive.

Greg
Unfortunately, there is a big gap between 1 amp units and 5-10 amp units.

The cheapest way is to find an old Aristo 10 or 15 amp throttle, and pair it up with an inexpensive power supply.

What I use is a lot more expensive, the MRC Power G, very nice, rugged, but expensive.

Greg
If you think 10 amp is enough I found this one. About $200.
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I use that power supply. If I remember correctly, someone here posted that it does not quite get up to 10 A, but it has worked for me. I routinely run two powered f-3 units on it (usa trains A & B), and sometimes two independent trains on my 110' loop.

I also use this thing:


It allows me to keep the power supply indoors permanently, but still control the trains. I ran some landscaping wire between it and the track, which I buried a few inches under the lawn so nobody trips on it & it looks nicer.

P.S. if you do decide to go with the remote (which has been a real game changer for me!), that same company sells a "no frills" 10 amp power supply for $84.
I use that power supply. If I remember correctly, someone here posted that it does not quite get up to 10 A, but it has worked for me. I routinely run two powered f-3 units on it (usa trains A & B), and sometimes two independent trains on my 110' loop.

I also use this thing:


It allows me to keep the power supply indoors permanently, but still control the trains. I ran some landscaping wire between it and the track, which I buried a few inches under the lawn so nobody trips on it & it looks nicer.
Good confidence building before I buy a new one. And the remote is quite clever!
read this page:

you will see that the USAT power supply does not have a good track record, many people have had to have theirs repaired, so I cannot recommend it.

I can completely recommend anything from G Scale Graphics, good value and good quality.

Greg
I agree with Greg about the 20va which at full 23volts to the track will not even give you 1 amp!!!! And this assumes you have nothing on the a/c output which will reduce the DC power. I recently found a 2nd hand 5 amp LGB power supply and speed controller with all the cables for a little more than the money you spent.
Also note that the MRC 20va can run 2 small LGB single motor engines, but not the smoke and passenger car lights.
I agree with Greg about the 20va which at full 23volts to the track will not even give you 1 amp!!!! And this assumes you have nothing on the a/c output which will reduce the DC power. I recently found a 2nd hand 5 amp LGB power supply and speed controller with all the cables for a little more than the money you spent.
Also note that the MRC 20va can run 2 small LGB single motor engines, but not the smoke and passenger car lights.
I may have found some used LGB power packs, which model number do you get and I assume it works to run two locos?
read this page:

you will see that the USAT power supply does not have a good track record, many people have had to have theirs repaired, so I cannot recommend it.

I can completely recommend anything from G Scale Graphics, good value and good quality.

Greg
Yikes thats a great article Greg, thanks!
Just trying to save you the anguish of paying money for something that will not do the job.

LGB DC power packs pretty darn expensive for what you get. LGB runs small, low current motors, so a 1 amp supply will run an LGB loco... barely...

Any other loco will exceed this.

So if you want one system running two trains on 2 separate tracks, and they run ok speed (not too fast, not too slow), the G Scale Graphics stuff really is a good choice.

If you don't neeed wireless control:

if you do:

Hope this helps in getting you the best thing for your $$

Greg
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Just trying to save you the anguish of paying money for something that will not do the job.

LGB DC power packs pretty darn expensive for what you get. LGB runs small, low current motors, so a 1 amp supply will run an LGB loco... barely...

Any other loco will exceed this.

So if you want one system running two trains on 2 separate tracks, and they run ok speed (not too fast, not too slow), the G Scale Graphics stuff really is a good choice.

If you don't neeed wireless control:

if you do:

Hope this helps in getting you the best thing for your $$

Greg
It does help. To be clear if I go with the Trackside 7 r/c I would need to also buy a power supply, yes? What one should I get if so?
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