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In "0" scale, I use ScaleModels and Monarch couplers.
For interchange, some are mandated to Kadees.
ALL of them couple together just fine.
The ScaleModels are the best, but hard to find anymore.
Monarch not quite as good, but you can take them apart and fine-tune them.
They both work with cut levers.
 

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I think this body mounted aristo coupler is a waste of time and money and bandwith.

If you want body mounted, there are tons of alternatives. From Lionel 0 gauge couplers to accucraft to kadee.

Plus, they already have made the body mounted coupler. Its on the Eggliner.
 
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Discussion Starter #43
Posted By markoles on 11/19/2008 6:59 AM
I think this body mounted aristo coupler is a waste of time and money and bandwith.

If you want body mounted, there are tons of alternatives. From Lionel 0 gauge couplers to accucraft to kadee.

Plus, they already have made the body mounted coupler. Its on the Eggliner.





 

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I haven't bought an AristoCraft car since USAT started selling cars with metal wheels and pads for KD couplers.

I have a number of KD body mounts and a mixture of KD and USAT truck mounted couplers. The truck mounted couples are all stepups so they match well with the body mounts. My trains aren't all that long, 13 cars maximum. So I don't have problems with them coming apart. Also, they match and couple well with the AMS box cars that I have recently purchased.

The thought that a "new" coupler is on the way, that won't couple with the ones I am currently using, will probably keep me from buying any more Aristo products. It would have to be a very unique product for me to accquire one. Especially with the lack of metal wheels.


Cheers to all,

Chuck N
 

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For the life of me I can't see how anyone would be able to design a close to scale body mounted couple that can NOT couple with a Kadee coupler. Impossible! Unless it's mounted far to high or far to low, the very basic principles that apply to the prototype preclude that. Unless of course a group of competing producers are planning on doing something along the same lines of the old Rapido couplers that were universal to all N scale builders - but coupled to nothing else.

Anyway, I'm sticking with my Kadee couplers. As are all the rest of my LS friends. We went through this crap with trying to exchange N scale and HO scale models and we're not doing it again.

Dave
 

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Hey guys,

Since I don't want Aristo to waste more time on a losing project, I emailed them my thoughts. Perhaps if enough of us did, either changes recommended would be implemented or the project dropped altogehter.

lewispolk @ yahoo.com

Remove the spaces around the @ and away you go. Who knows, nick, you might get an answer to your question of WHY?
 

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Yeah, he really wants to hear from me!

I've got a collection of emails where his minions have told me that I do not represent the average user, and my opinions do not count.

I'll let you send him the emails!!!

Regards, Greg
 

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Here is a quick qestion... Who at aristo will even READ the email? I have emailed them over three months ago about a different subject and have NOW gotten an answer from someone on their forum. But....go head and email them.....

I highly doubt it, but does anyone have a photo of what the couplers will look like?
 

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I'm sorry for AristoCraft if they don't monitor this site and its various forums, it's their lo$$. Greg is very knowledgeable, I put him in the class with TOC and they speak for most of us. They both offer very helpful information for those of us who are not as proficient with the ins and outs of these models.


For Aristo to dismiss comments of people from this forum is to be done at their own ri$k. Sending emails to Aristo is obviously a waste of time. I'll vote with my deminishing $$$, Aristo with a new coupler that doesn't mate with anything I have and no metal wheels will go into the -- gosh that's nice but it doesn't fit into my railroad, $orry.


Here's to compatable couplers. Most of us are too far into this hobby to even think of changing. I could make two idler cars to make these compatable with what I run, but why bother when other manufacturers offer cars that require little modification. To use the idler cars limits my train makeup. I like mixing cars in my consists.


Cheers to KD, Accucraft, and USAT for couplers that work well together. The only problem I have is with KD gauge 1 and Accucraft, but that doesn't happen very often, as I only have a couple of cars with KD gauge 1.


Chuck N
 

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I don't know why anyone would make another type of coupler, or anyone would buy them. We already have 6 or more diferent kinds that don't work well together or not at all. I have put KD's on all of my cars, and will not be changing them. That is the only way I could run my 4 diferent brands of cars together. The industy would do itself a favor if the manufactures would get together and agree on one knckle coupler, and I think KD would be perfect since so many people are using them. The HO people are way ahead of the G scale people.
 

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Dale, ".... The HO people are way aheard of the G scale people."

Simple, they get to control their environment. Since the majority of G scalers are outside, we have no contol over our environment. So HO scalers can do just about anything they want where as with G, we have to comply with nature. Also, G scale has how many diferent scales? 4+ different scales, where as HO has 1 scale. So, what works for you in one location and/or scale might not work for me in a different location and/or scale.

Also, ALL G scale knuckle couplers work together. Some not as well, but they will work. I have seen Bachmann, Aristo, Accucraft, USA, LGB, Kadee, and Lionel couplers hook together and pull a train with NO problems.
 

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Snoq Pass stated "ALL G scale knuckle couplers work together" ... From where I sit, only Accucraft and the larger KD's "work together".

A definition of working together which only includes not parting when a train is pulled is hardly helpful. To me a proper coupler should:
1) couple automatically when cars are pushed together
2) stay coupled under heavy load up and downhill (though not necessarily on excessively rough track)
3) allow backing movements of long trains
4) uncouple easily for switching operations

And I would add that they should also separate easily to prevent a domino effect of toppling cars should one derail or if a single car is to be lifted from the consist manually.

The current large scale situation is a mess when it comes to couplers as it costs a good many of us $5-10 extra per car plus the effort to install proper couplers when an agreement between manufacturers could easily produce cars with standard couplers.

I know ... "we dont need no stinkin standards" - even though this thread runs for pages ... and of course with so few suppliers there is insufficient push to standardize.

Regards ... Doug
 

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Posted By Dougald on 11/22/2008 2:39 PM
Snoq Pass stated "ALL G scale knuckle couplers work together" ... From where I sit, only Accucraft and the larger KD's "work together".

The current large scale situation is a mess when it comes to couplers as it costs a good many of us $5-10 extra per car plus the effort to install proper couplers when an agreement between manufacturers could easily produce cars with standard couplers.

Regards ... Doug


A new "Standard" coupler used by various MAJOR manufactures is about 10 years to late for me. I standardized with Aristo couplers all around in the early days and then invested in Kadee. Had there been a 'standard' prototype looking couple - close to scale - I would have been using that today and have had $1000.00 in the bank for other stuff.

Not changing now!!!!

Dave
 

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Doug,
1) couple automatically when cars are pushed together
2) stay coupled under heavy load up and downhill (though not necessarily on excessively rough track)
3) allow backing movements of long trains
4) uncouple easily for switching operations

1) Yes
2) Yes
3) Yes
4) Yes
I have seen ALL knuckle couplers do that. And as I stated at the bottom of my post. What works for ME will not necessarly work for YOU.
 

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Snoq:

1. Maybe the question was that they actually work without slamming them together. Today, I used a number of LGB couplers that did not couple automatically. They are supposed to, but I think the statement was from a practical standpoint, meaning that this works ALL the time. Many of the knuckle couplers I have tried (Aristo, USAT, LGB, AML) do not work very well here.

2. NO, not all knuckle couplers work under heavy load. Many Aristos fail under heavy load. I don't have as much difficulty with USAT. Bachmans are ok.
3. Long trains! not just trains. Some couplers do a poor job of this.
4. NO! Aristo is ok manually, do not work remotely. USAT are ok, but not great, no remote uncoupling, Bachman.. don't go there....

Snoq, you speak with a lot of authority about being correct, but you must be much smarter and more experienced than me, because I do not think you have really experienced mixing all the couplers you put in your post. I have done most of them, and can indicate some combinations that are just plain unworkable.

The point Doug was making was about the practical aspects of couplers, ones that are not necessarily brand new, and definitely under stress, not just theoretical, or on a data sheet, but what happens on a real model railroad with use.

Maybe I am way off base, but that's my take on the discussion so far.

Regards, Greg
 

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Ugh. This is the problem with the G-Scale industry. Everybody thinks like an indoor modeler in that what they do, will work for everybody else. That is false. We all live in different environments which have different weather. This different weather will cause things that work for me, to not necessarly work for you. The different environments will create different trackage, which will affect how a train performs. Since we cannot control the environment, we have to adapt to it. Thus we all have different requirements and different ways to get things done.

Now, about the knuckle couplers. I am stating what works for ME. By you saying that all couplers will not work together is what works for you, but that is not what I have seen. I have seen Bachmann couple with USA. I have seen Lionel couple with Accucraft. And on, and on, and on.....

Greg, you say that I lack the "experience that you have" is a complete insult. What is this experience that you have? Do you even know who I am? NO! So how in the world can you say that you have more experience than I do?

About my "authority" that you say that I have. From my view point I could take what you say and reword it to, "Greg, you speak with a lot of authority about being correct." You are trying to force your ways and viewpoints "down my throat" sorta speak. For you, those couplers don't work together, but for ME, they do. Which is why I stated that with "authority" (as you say).
 

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Several years ago Garden Railways printed a compatibility chart, it rated how well they worked with each other. some did pretty good others were a complete no-go.
 

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Snoq:

No one has stated that you are wrong because you are different. Your first paragraph really is something you have been saying over and over to no effect. That is because it is addressing a non-issue. No one is picking on you because you are indoors, or because they are trying to put their experiences on you.

No, I said you must have more experience that I do. I did not say what you posted. OK, so you say you have seen everything. OK, so the 3 largest manufacturers of large scale are Bachmann, USAT and Aristo.

You are telling me you have seen all these combinations of the 3. (you actually claim more) Well, now I have to say you are wrong. Aristo does not work with USAT. They just don't. Also, if you are telling me you can couple Bachmann with anything you want, then you must be from a planet different from me, because very often Bachmann is a completely different height from the rails, making it IMPOSSIBLE TO EVEN CONSIDER CONNECTING THEM in many cases.

So, you keep stating " I have seen Bachmann couple with USA. I have seen Lionel couple with Accucraft. And on, and on, and on....."

You definitely have more experience than me. But I do not accept your statements as true.

If you want to show pictures of these 3 manufacturers couplers with their peers (not very many pictures) and using them on stock cars, maybe I could be convinced that you are right and I have some tremendous problem with perception.

You may not notice it, but you are still doing it.

Please post pictures, so I can be educated. It will also give you an opportunity to publicly embarrass me if that is a further incentive.

Embarrassing you or insulting you was not my object, but I disagree with your statements. Indoors, outdoors, on earth or in space, I think the following 3 statements:

"
Also, ALL G scale knuckle couplers work together. Some not as well, but they will work. I have seen Bachmann, Aristo, Accucraft, USA, LGB, Kadee, and Lionel couplers hook together and pull a train with NO problems."

and

" have seen ALL knuckle couplers do that." (used in context of the post it is found in)

and

" I have seen Bachmann couple with USA. I have seen Lionel couple with Accucraft. And on, and on, and on....."

are NOT true, i.e. NOT actual, NOT something a room of experts would agree with.

Regards, Greg
 

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Like some have said.. What works for me may not work for others.

I seem to end up with a lot of Bachmann and USA couplers. So I do a lot of test as I did in Ho for many years with old Bakers coupler. Working on Bachmann problem and see what's happening that seems to un-couple by themselves.

I ended up re-working Bachmann and now no problems with them, and they do work good with USA with a little work..

Bachmann hangs down and had to pull the swivel pin out and re tap it and then put in a threaded bolt. (This gets the coupler hanging straight.)
Then clean the sharp sides off of the pin and thread the top of pin. Put a small nut on top. This give a little wt. to hold the pin down.. .
Paint couplers rust and they work well.

When I switch rolling stock, I have no problem using a 3 foot dowel with a flat blade on the bottom of them. Then I don't have to bend over do to most of my layout is on the ground anyway..
Lots of times the coupler "like the real train cars" don't line up and have to center them to couple up on a curve.. Thats also when the 3 ft. dowel stick helps..

So guess for us, this works better than kadees. Those have to have a Mag. in the track to uncouple them, or a screwdriver to get to the pins.
....Hate to use the 0-5-0 all of the time to un-couple them.

If I had over the years put on Kadees in the firsts place. They probably would of worked well for us.. But now would have to spend over a few 1,000 bucks to replace mine.

Guess for me now is trying to get anyones junk box coulpers... " Thats Bachmann or USA that no one wants."

Old saying is one mans junk is another ones treasures.. ( Me )
 
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