[toddalin]

My track cleaner works great except that the hollow axles that are CA'ed to the motor shafts can let go and slip under load.


In your experience, who makes the strongest CA that can hold a 2MM ID stainless steel tube to a 2MM OD motor shaft? The fit is fine with no excess slop when it spins.

 

[OldNoob]

Good question.

 

[Greg Elmassian]

I would recommend a high strength epoxy. Any reason you must use CA?

 

[toddalin]

I would recommend a high strength epoxy. Any reason you must use CA?

Very limited area for bonding and epoxy tends to be thicker, so may not work its way in as well.

Red Loctite was suggested as the strongest CA on Facebook. I've also heard this in the past at the hardware store.

But I am certainly open to other ideas. This works too well to let it go.

http://www.audioheritage.org/photopost/data//500/medium/DSC_0005_3_.JPG

 

[Greg Elmassian]

would it make any sense to use coarse sandpaper to make longitudinal scratches on the axles to give more room for the glue? A poor man's "knurling" so to speak.

 

[toddalin]

The area is so small, probably not and may slim down the shaft such that the axle doesn't run true.

 

[Michael Glavin]

Todd,

I'd look at Loctite, green #648 Retaining Compound. There are other compounds in the 600 series too. Been using this stuff for years to retain bearings, bushings and such in the 1:1 scale world.

Michael

 

[toddalin]

Todd,

I'd look at Loctite, green #648 Retaining Compound. There are other compounds in the 600 series too. Been using this stuff for years to retain bearings, bushings and such in the 1:1 scale world.

Michael

This is promising, though expensive for 1 drop. My fear is that when I cement the tube to the shaft, I cement the end of the tube to the motor casing. There is no space for even a piece of tape to separate them and when you slide the tube on the shaft, you push the leading edge of the cement toward the casing.

With the fast setting CA, I can cement it in place and spin the other side of the shaft with my fingers, after a moment, for a moment, to keep this bond from "taking." And this does happen from the prior times I've done it. Green sets over a matter of a couple hours, so this could be a bit harder to do.

 

[Michael Glavin]

Todd,

Wax paper? Vaseline. oil or grease applied to the motor end bell and bearing?

Michael

 

[toddalin]

Cleaned everything thouroughly and scraped the shaft with an exacto and am trying Titebond Ultra.

I used more this time and even put some into the shaft with a toothpick as well as on the shaft. As I feared, the excess squeezed forward and instantly wanted to bond the nut to the case making everything immobile, but I was able to grab both wheels simultaneously and rotate them to break this bond before it set up. Then I just rotated the other side until the CA set so that it couldn't adhere to the case.

I'll give it a day and we'll see tomorrow.