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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi Folks!

I like to scratchbuild accurate models and I'm starting my first project in 1/32 scale. However, either I'm not using the right search terms in Google, or there seems to be a shocking lack of detail parts in this scale. So, your help, please, as to where I might find parts such as trucks, brake cylinders, door hardware - or if anyone even makes them - in 1/32? I'm trying to model US prototype, steam era pre-WW2 (just to make things extra-difficult :) )

Searching The Net has turned up Ozark Miniatures who make a couple of trucks in 1/32, but they look a bit rough and lumpy somehow - mind you, the photos are terrible so I stand to be corrected - and the springs are too spindly so they look a bit toy-trainish.

And of course, there is Kadee with their beautiful couplers, but alas, their trucks are 1:29.

Surely there has to be more than this? All assistance would be much appreciated!

Regards
Paul Woods

Whangarei, NZ
 

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I don't think there are a whole lot of people that scratch build in 1:32. I offer kits/detail parts in 1:29, but I can't remember ever having any inquires about re-scaling them to 1:32.

I sympathize with your desire for accuracy, but I think most LS scratch-builders are grandfathered in to other scales.
 

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The GRMA Gauge 1 association has ads for 1/32nd, but usually UK based. David Leech has some nice trucks, he no longer makes his coaches. MTH is 1/32nd but not sure they have a lot of parts for sale. For some cars I make my own and the trucks. Gary Raymond carries wheels in many sizes suitable for 1/32 cars.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
The GRMA Gauge 1 association has ads for 1/32nd, but usually UK based. David Leech has some nice trucks, he no longer makes his coaches. MTH is 1/32nd but not sure they have a lot of parts for sale. For some cars I make my own and the trucks. Gary Raymond carries wheels in many sizes suitable for 1/32 cars.
Aha! Gary Raymond wheels! I knew there was a source of large scale wheels other than NWSL but couldn't dredge the name out of the muddy waters that is my memory ;-) Thank you, Jerry!
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I don't think there are a whole lot of people that scratch build in 1:32. I offer kits/detail parts in 1:29, but I can't remember ever having any inquires about re-scaling them to 1:32.

I sympathize with your desire for accuracy, but I think most LS scratch-builders are grandfathered in to other scales.
Hi Burl, those are some nice parts you have created. It looks like you have similar capabilities to me with the 3D-draughting and brass castings, but I take my hat off to you for the car kits - they are objects of rare and unusual beauty for sure. You're quite right about scratch-building being done in other scales - no shortage of 1:20.3 parts out there. I just wanted to make sure I wasn't repeating someone-else's work before I plough a whole lot of time into drawing parts on the confuser.

Regards
Paul
 

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I model in 1/32 scale steam era PRR, and have been able to put together quite a bit in seven years but it is difficult mainly because of the lack of 1/32 scale suppliers of staple parts and details such as trucks, doors, dreadnought ends, brake gear and so on.
I have found that the PIKO US style freight cars are actually made from the old MDC molds. They sell parts separatly too which helps, I built two gondolas using their parts for ends and brake gear as well as trucks. Unfortunatly their box cars are about one inch too short (or 21/2 scale feet) ditto the reefers and these are too high also (same height as the box cars).
MTH which makes a selection of box, reefers, flat and hoppers are good but strangely they insist on putting a very special door on their box car for which I have never seen a protype, and pug doors on their otherwise nice steam era reefers... the hoppers are very good and the flats need only to be lowered to represent a prototype AAR design. Their tank is of a modern era design.
I agree that we desperatly need supplies in this scale to get the ball rolling. With all the beautiful steamers around in that scale it's a shame not to have apropriate rolling stock. Accucraft is now our best hope. It might be interesting for TRS service who already provide castings for locos, to investigate what could be done in that respect, as a sideline.
Also there is the Gal line which I forgot to mention. I haven't tried their kits which seem a bit pricey for me for plastic kits without rivets details.
 

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Somewhere there is documentation that while 1/32 is the proper scale for gauge 1 track to represent standard gauge, here in the US the scale was fudged to 1/29 because 1/32 wasn't different enough from 1/43 and 1/48 used with O gauge track.

So, the simple answer to "Where are the suppliers of 1/32 details for scratchbuilders?"
is most likely, Europe, and probably not in English, that is assuming there are any.

Similar question has arisen here in March 2014, and for both 1/32 and 1/29;
http://forums.mylargescale.com/11-public-forum/29273-1-32-scale-detail-vs-price.html
I think the other fact that was left out is availability...
There is not a lot that has been made in 1/32nd and also MTH is either bailing on G scale or has really slowed it's releases on items. Roundhouse has departed the scale, yet Piko has come out with some rolling stock from the old molds. Details you say... Well many of us in 1/29th have discovered tht if you want something correct, you have to do it yourself. Several of us modelers have taken it upon ourselves to start correcting manufacturers errors in making models. I feel the gap in "G scale 1/29th" is the lack of detail parts for one to "dress up" their models. It's slowly coming around, but there's still not enough made. Myself being, my latest bone to pick is the lack of cabeese trucks. Not too many cabeese including all scales of G have the correct trucks in standard gauge. To get a pair of trucks that are correct for my cabeese I have to buy a caboose that is not anywhere close to the Western roads I model AND is closer to 1/32 than 1/29th. The trucks are close enough, but it's having to buy a whole model to get just the right parts I need. Locomotives are also among the worse to do as far as details. NOBODY makes a winterization hatch to go over a radiator fan, NOBODY makes an all weather window to go on the cab... I can keep going too. So, you have to make it youself. Even if they started making correct locos, cabeese etc. in 1/32 it's too late for me. I can't start over to match my current collection. So I stay happy with what I have and keep tearing models apart to build correct locos and rolling stock. It's my choice. Sure everyone wants it correct and ready to go outta the box, but it don't happen like that. So my wish is for more detail parts to help correct the errors. I need to think more about what I need before continuing. It's still too early yet for me as I stayed up after 3 AM working to correct a caboose that not only have the wrong trucks, but the wrong frame and wrong brake gear or lack of brake gear. And it goes on and on and on ......

Rocky
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Hi du-bousquetaire, and thank you for the information.

I've been a NYC fan for a long time, so between the two of us our interests must cover a significant chunk of the eastern railroads in terms of what cars would appear on our 'home roads'. I have several plans of PRR cars built from 1900 up to maybe 1930, 'twould be just plain wrong to not have a good number of Pennsy cars. The road I want to model is a NYC-affiliate, not the NYC itself, and was right in the heart of Pennsy territory so an L-1 wouldn't look out of place either.

Since it looks as though I am not in any danger of repeating what someone else has already made, I am happy to plough into a truck-building program. If you have any requests, feel free to ask away. I am a mechanical engineer by training and a CAD draughtsman by profession, and I've been making stuff using Shapeways Black-Strong-Flexible and FXD for quite a while. Here's a set of drivers for an O-scale berkshire I was working on.



They are Black-Strong-Flexible centres press-fitted into ledloy tyres made by Protocraft. I have set up a 1/32 scale version, just need to machine the tyres first so I can match the OD of the centres to the tyres.

For trucks, B-S-F is excellent; strong, cheap and already coloured. If you're looking for museum-quality then the surface finish is probably not acceptable, but for working models I think it looks just right.

While I'm looking for plans for the USRA Andrews truck, I am working to finish off a Dalman 2-level truck that I started for an O-scale brass master but will now be printed at 1/32 in B-S-F, and whenever the detail work on that starts giving me a headache, I switch to roughing-out a Bettendorf 40-ton T-section truck purpose-designed for printing in B-S-F.

Regards
Paul
http://forums.mylargescale.com/members/9032-du-bousquetaire.html
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I should also add that K-brake cylinders, brake wheels and stirrups are high on my hit-list. The K-brake cyls could probably be sold direct from Shapeways as FUD resin - if I sprue several together it can keep the cost down to a reasonable figure - but the brake wheels and stirrups will be cast in brass for strength.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I thought y'all might like to know of some recent developments. I called upon the members of the Yahoo chat group 'Steam Era Freight Cars' for assistance with locating drawings of the USRA Andrews 50-ton truck. I didn't get exactly the right drawing, but I did get enough to allow me to create a reasonably close copy, which I am working on turning into a 3D CAD model right now.

Second major win has been being invited to test-drive a new 3D printing material by Shapeways, called 'HP Strong & Flexible'. I didn't even know it was in the works so the invite really blew me away. This is basically nylon so it is very tough, and the process is capable of producing surprisingly thin walls and fine detail, much better than the current 'White-Strong-Flexible', to the point where I am now having to research foundry marks because the 'HP' system is capable of reproducing these on a 1/32 scale truck. According to the material description, it is semi-glossy in finish, and the resolution is such that I could see it being used for parts such as boxcar ends, doors, coupler pockets. It comes in grey or black, and best of all, it is cheap!

I'll come back with progress reports from time to time....
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Hi Burl, thanks for your interest, and apologies for not replying sooner; I haven't checked in for quite a while due to work taking a lot of my time. Thankfully the rush has eased and I'm back at it - now preparing a 2D drawing which acts as the basis for 'expanding' into a 3D model:



It's a necessary step (for me, at least) which aids in understanding the shapes and makes sure I get the dimensions right.

Regards
Paul
 

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I have the same problem with my job. If I expect them to pay me, they expect me to work.

Sorry if I missed it, but what CAD program are you using?
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Hi Burl

I use a very old copy of Bentley Microstation, V8 edition which dates from 2004-2010. It was the last edition I bought before I stopped working as a contractor so I didn't bother with updates after that. Nevertheless, it is still a very capable 3D program, at least for what I need to do for making model railroad stuff. It is very stable and produces clean .stl files. I sometimes have problems due to compatibility issues when people give me CAD files these days but I'm pretty much working on my own so that doesn't crop up very often.

How about you?

Regards
Paul
 

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I got my feet wet with Sketchup, but have felt like I'm hitting my limits with it lately. I am currently looking at Autodesk Fusion 360. I will probably do a couple small projects with it to see how I like it.
 

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Hi Paul:
I just rediscovered this thread, which brings me to reply to your 2017 post only now. I know this is not good practice, but as it is a reply to your posts made then, I cannot start a new thread, it wouldn't make sens. About the time of your post on your developing 1/32 parts in 3D I moved, then had a very big health issue that took me out of commission for nearly a year. So I never answered you then...
I would love to see what you have been able to produce with these new technologies. Meanwhile I have not worked much on rolling stock being very much occupied buy the construction of my new layout in Ardèche.
Simon
 

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Hi Paul:
I just rediscovered this thread, which brings me to reply to your 2017 post only now. I know this is not good practice, but as it is a reply to your posts made then, I cannot start a new thread, it wouldn't make sens. About the time of your post on your developing 1/32 parts in 3D I moved, then had a very big health issue that took me out of commission for nearly a year. So I never answered you then...
I would love to see what you have been able to produce with these new technologies. Meanwhile I have not worked much on rolling stock being very much occupied buy the construction of my new layout in Ardèche.
Simon
 

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I have a few lost wax castings for USRA 4 6 2, 282, and 2 10 2 locos. Thet are very accurate. I also have a few PRR cast pieces and more STL files. I lost my ability to inject wax molds, or cast 3D printed parts. Check out my old (very!) description at galtran.com/PRR_L2_Construction_Information/pennsylvania_railroad_l2s_class_.htm Make sure to look at the link for the update, too. On an unrelated topic I also describe how I made my CNC rivet embosser. The motion control is much easier these days.
I have no list, but you can email me directly at [email protected] about which parts and STL files I have. Search the formlabs.com page; they have 3D parts casters listed somewhere. I have a Form 2 printer (currently in storage) that has given me incredible results. The PRR bell stand is amazing. Everything I do is 1/32 scale. However, you can scale the model in the slicer to any scale you want. If you search for 1/32 scale detail parts in Europe, you will see hundreds of first class cast parts. There is a service you can subscribe to that has the latest 1/32 scale developments - Euro centered naturally. Unfortunately, there is not much about North American stuff. But you will eat your heart out!
Bill Box
 

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One thing that is helpful when resurrecting an old thread AND asking a question of a poster is to click on his name and see when he last posted. You can then pretty well tell if he is active or not.

Paul last posted May 22 2017 in this thread. So no posts for about 4-1/2 years. So expectations are low that he will respond, but there's always hope.

I googled him and came up with nothing. (he is not Paul Wood, different person)

But you did find more info, so the request bore fruit!
 
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