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Discussion Starter #1
I've had Wm Harris' 1-1/2" scale plans for the "Falk" for about a year. I doubt I'll ever build one that size, BUT I also had a junk battery loco, and a c-16 cab lying around. So.....

Real Falk:


My progress after blowing $3 on plastic pipe and about 45 minutes of butchery



It's not going to be a scale model, (An old Kalamazoo 0-4-0 would be a better start for that), just an exercise to see if I can make it look presentable without spending much money. Since all 4 wheels have traction tires and the motor is only 6v, I'm going battery power with a small rheostat in the cab or bunker for speed control.
 

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Hi Mik,

I will keep an eye on your progress. I have a 7.5" gauge Falk. It's a work in progress-- the chassis runs on air though.






Regards,
 

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Thank you, Rich. Yes, I know I could buy them, with only two small problems -- I model in 1:24, and I won't spend that kind of money on ANY loco. (call me cheap or just plain old broke)


This project is just to see whether I can capture the spirit of the locomotive with stuff I already have in my junk box.



Stuff I have and will use: The carcass of a battery operated 2-6-2 of unknown manufacture, A Delton c-16 cab (I still need to shorten it by about 1/4), Most of an Ozark winch kit, An Ozark reverse lever kit, A pair of Aristo cylinder lubricator turnings, Ozark pop valve and whistle, a cylinder from a junked B'mann 0-4-0, A firebox section from the same junk 0-4-0, and some bits from the old General plastic kit. Also, I found an Ozark smokestack last night that I'll probably replace the wood one with -- the rest I'll scratchbuild.


Now a big question for you battery gurus: What would be the best balance between cost and operation for a battery pack? (about the size of 4 AAs to fit in the boiler) Note: I'm probably limited to stuff from Radio Scrap or evilBay.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
some progress.....

different stack, not "correct", but I think I like it better than the other one


smokebox door details,


base coat of paint, and showing the cylinder mount and crosshead guide mount for the gypsy winch.


Test fit with the shortened cab, the proportions are a lot closer now


That's as far as I've gotten. I'm going to work on the chassis for a bit next
 

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Looking good so far Mik! I even have some of those parts lying around on my workbench. Keep us posted.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
today's progress...
I couldn't find the spare cylinder, so I made a wood one. Also, I REALLY wish I'd had a bigger gear


Piping started The white thing on the side of the firebox is a half-finished Penberthy injiector
 

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MiK

Thanks for taking the time to post the pixes. I want to build one of those eventually, but there's just too much about it I don't understand, starting with 'Falk'. A manufacturer?

Your modelling philosophy and mine are near the same.

I really like what you've got going. Are you working from plans (loosely)? That is, to know what's needed and where it's supposed to go?

Very encouraging, neat project you've got going there.

Les
 

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Discussion Starter #11
The original locomotive was built by Marshutz & Cantrell National Iron Works of San Francisco in 1884 for The Elk River Mill and Lumber Co. It is a 10 ton 0-4-0 loco with an idependent gypsy winch. It was named "Falk" because the president of the Elk River company at that time was Noah Falk.

I'm not sure why, but the online pics I've found all seem to be small and/or fuzzy. I'm working from a booklet published by Live steam Magazine ($15), and I think the NGSLG also has line drawings for $5 or so.

This is a pic of Missouri Locomotive Co. gauge 1 version mentioned above -- Much nicer than mine, but then I won't have anywhere near $775 invested when I'm done either.
 

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Mik,

Your model is really taking shape. I do have many files on the Falk. If you would like me to send a CD of these send me an address to the email in the signature block. I am always happy to share these.
 

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Rick,

Many, many thanks for the addr. I never suspected plans would be out there at such a reasonable price.

Les
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Some more progress, nothing like wasting a whole day off, lol.

Did I mention that I REALLY hated the side rods from the battery toy? I was looking for something else when I found a pair of Delton c-16 rods in a box.... 2 hours of butchery later they fit pretty good. I made them a bit sloppy because if this thing is anywhere near correctly quartered I'll be very much surprised.


The cable guides for the winch. They look about right, but are glued down tight (non functional) because I'm too lazy to make working hinges. I'll probably glue the gypsy engine together too. Yes I know the original did not have a buffer beam, I had it here and it helps hide some mistakes.


Backhead detail, the johnson bar on this side is for the manual brakes (1884, no air!) The more I study this thing, the more it resembles a portable farm engine mounted on a loco chassis instead of wheels (only real difference is the winch pinion in place of a flywheel)


Engineer's side. The smaller lever close to the firebox is the throttle lever (the valve itself is at the end of the long pipe off the dome, clear up by the cylinder - condensate must have been a problem when this thing sat any length of time), it should be longer, but it is what I had here. Also, you can see the platform for the tank/bunker... good old coffee stirrers to the rescue again!


AND, here is the water tank/fuel bunker. I put making this off as long as I could, not because I didn't know HOW to make it...because I was hoping I'd figure out an easier way. It's .030" x 2" sheet brass, with jewelry wire for the top bead, and some tiny plastic I-beam for the belt strip. There should be a bazillion rivets in 3 horizontal rows plus several vertical ones, but I'm NOT adding them.


Now, some observations for guys considering this build -- stuff I would like to have done differently if I'd had the $$$.... 1. start with either a Kalamazoo 0-4-0 or the Lehmann Porter... it will save you a lot of farting around re-engineering stuff. 2. get a 1-1/2"-2" gear for the winch. The 1" gear I had is simply too small. 3. if you want to motorize the winch, a friction drive on the crank disc with the motor hidden in the boiler would probably be the easiest and least obvious. 4 measure twice and cut once. I had to patch the cab because I misjudged the location of the winch cylinder -- on that note, mount the engine lower than I did, if you can. I had to block part of the front cab window because the valve rod is 1/4" too high
 

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Well, I like it real well. It does look like a steam traction engine, doesn't it? I happened to've liked the old green rods okay, but it's your build. The new ones look good too.

Keep it up, I'm enjoying watching it come together.

Les
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Patience is a virtue.. unfortunately it isn't one of mine... I just had to mock it up again... Yes, I know the cab and bunker are on a little drunk. I need to mill a couple reliefs in the floor, drill some holes, and screw them down -- then they'll sit straight(er)
 

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Hey, a nice pic for the rank amateur like me: shows that not all is perfect at any given moment.

Remember, I've never scratchbuilt (or built) a single thing as a model since the 50s. What I'm seeing is giving me the push to get started, and 'get er done' then look at the results. (If I can bear to.) Sure, the thing's a tad off level here 'n there at the moment. A few screws like you said, some putty 'n paint, you'll have a neat-looker for sure. But for encouragement value, and demonstration purposes, it's great for me to see. I'm really glad you posted the pic, and I'm waiting for more. I'm taking lots of mental notes.

Les
 
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