Since there seems not to be any 2-6-2 locos on the market, I thought of using an Aristocraft 2-4-2 and additional drive unit for bashing one. Of course, utilizing larger cabs, etc. Reading through the history of the Cripple Creek RR in Colorado, one of their locos was a 2-4-2 along with the # 51 Forney style loco.
Utilizing Aristocraft 2-4-2 and spare drive unit for bashing a 1:20.3 Prairie
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If you've got the loco and extra box, then why not have a go? On the other hand, if you're just thinking of buying a loco from which to start, I'd be more tempted to go with a Bachmann 4-6-0 as a starting point. It's got a robust drive, and good valve gear that doesn't need to be fabricated.
Quite some time ago, I tried using the Aristo Rogers motor blocks for a project, and had really bad luck with them. The gears chewed themselves up. This was some 15 or so years ago, mind you, so take that for what it's worth.
Later,
K
Quite some time ago, I tried using the Aristo Rogers motor blocks for a project, and had really bad luck with them. The gears chewed themselves up. This was some 15 or so years ago, mind you, so take that for what it's worth.
Later,
K
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361 Posts
Unlike Kevin, I've had good experience with the drive units from the Rogers... but only when used individually for single driver locos. I've had several Rogers and most of them developed a bind between the drivers (maybe this is what caused the gear grinding in Kevin's?). I suspect you're really tempting fate to add a third driver with those units. If you really want a Prairie, the Bachmann ten-wheeler might be a better starting point. Just my opinion.
Chris
Chris
Correct me if I am wrong, but isn't the Rogers dual-motored? Could be that the combination of two motors running out of synchronization caused one of the two motors to put excessive stress on the axle gear from running at a higher (or lower, depending on the situation) RPM.
-Kurt
-Kurt
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4,970 Posts
In my case, I was just using one motor to power the prairie. I don't think it was overloaded (with only 6 or 7 car trains) but that's always a possibility. I had bought two blocks at a train show, and managed to chew up both main gears. It could have been a bad batch, funny worm screw, who knows? I replaced the motors and gears with NWSL parts, and that fixed the problem.
Anther option would be to get parts from Hartland. It's been a while since I priced his parts, but I was looking at using them for a 2-8-0 project, and for everything I'd need (motor, gears, 4 sets of drivers) it was only going to set me back between $60 - $80 or something like that. You're still on your own for frames, rods, etc., but it's a good start. I've since acquired a 2nd-hand BBT chassis which will likely serve my purposes, though I may try to see if I can swap out the drivers...
Later,
K
Anther option would be to get parts from Hartland. It's been a while since I priced his parts, but I was looking at using them for a 2-8-0 project, and for everything I'd need (motor, gears, 4 sets of drivers) it was only going to set me back between $60 - $80 or something like that. You're still on your own for frames, rods, etc., but it's a good start. I've since acquired a 2nd-hand BBT chassis which will likely serve my purposes, though I may try to see if I can swap out the drivers...
Later,
K
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