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Discussion Starter #1
I have read that many of you recommend something like liquid nails or caulk for gluing Piko buildings together.

My question is how do you do it? Those products come in tubes and you need a caulk gun to dispense them.

How do you keep your joints neat?

How do you control the application of the caulk?

What is the best product (Caulk) for doing this?

Do you also use the glue supplied with the kit?

Thanks for the help
 

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I have built all of mine with Testors glue for plastic models. The glue that comes in the black container with the steel needle like spout. Has worked for at least 10 years so I see no reason to change now .Good luck with what ever you choose.
Fred
 

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There are 3 major issues with the Piko buildings. Having the corners come apart, roof damage from sun and rain and the building's weight. I superglue everything together and then back up all the major joints with E6000. You have to use the E6000 as you go otherwise there will be spots that you just can't reach. Reciently I have been cutting 3/4" x 3/4" corner strips out of redwood and glueing them in the corners with the E6000 to strengthen everything. I change the roofs on a lot of my buildings as I don't like the look of the European tile roofs. When I do this I cut and glue a piece of 1/2 inch plywood in the top of the building as a sub-roof and then add the real roof. I also add a 1/2" plywood base inside the bottom of the building to help keetpit square. I then use the base plate to screw it to a foundation piece to help hold it in place against the wind. (I keep by buildings out year long). I have a couple of Piko buildings that I will never put lights in and I am thinking of just filling them with concrete.
 

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I glue all of my Piko buildings with the supplied Piko glue which appears to me to be a Super Glue type of glue, although it is a little thicker than the standard Super Glue I've used. Then when I'm done, I just apply a fillet of Liquid Nails in all of the corners, roof peaks, etc. This way I can use it right out of the tube, and the size of the fillet isn't real important since you can't see it. This seems to have worked well for me so far - 1-3 years depending on the building.

Ed
 

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I use a plastic welding solvent to glue it all together then use either silicone or liquid nails to reinforce major joints (walls, roof) like caulking a bath tub.

-Brian
 

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Use Weld-On #16 for a permanent welded glue joint. This solvent type glue is thickened with acrylic monomer and melts the PIKO and POLA plastics together. No need for any extra reinforcements or caulking when done properly. Also, it is a good idea to change out the clear styrene windows with either clear acrylic, polycarbonate plastic or glass. The styrene windows fog up and turn yellow fairly quickly. The roof tends to warp on these kits so it is a good idea to glue acrylic or styrene bracing to the inside to stiffen it up.
Russ
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Good!

I have weldon #16 and have been using it. It does not seem to hold the window material very well as some of them are falling out already.

I have also used the UHU glue supplied with the Piko buildings and I have some that have been out for more than two years. Only some of the details have fallen off. One building the roof has come off.

The trouble with the Weldon 16 is that it is difficult to control the flow of glue.

I am not much of a modeler so i tend to get a lot of glue on places where I really do not want it.

John
 
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