[Duncan]

I'll try this again, but I'm sorely tempted not to... 

I've had some glued up 1X4 panels hanging around for a bit now, which have gone through the thickness planer, 15 degree, 3/4" dado cutting to mimic clapboard siding, and now I decided it was time to get creative.

Most of the others that got the dadoing treatment also received some mind numbing Dremel saw activity to make them into shingled roofing panels.  However, I digress again.

This one plank (three 1X4s biscuit joined at the edges) has been begging for attention, so I got bizzy with the whirlying silver colored disc, with no clue as to what this thing will turn out to be.  I'm open to suggestions....

The only problem was that at roughly two stories tall, It either was going to need a flat roof, or I was going to be making up more panels that were five 1x4s edge to edge.

I chose option "C".

I cut some lengths (sides and ends), and kept a salvage piece the same width as the two ends.  These were biscuit joined onto the tops of the end pieces after trimming all of the pieces to the same height dimmension, (clearing off the "rough" or uneven edges),

It's gonna be tallish, with two levels (floors) with windows , and an "attic" set of windows in the gable ends.

Then I had to figure out how to join the corners, and keep everyting together.  I don't even want to discuss the "learning experience" that I've received from my first project using the "shingled" look of the 15 degree, 3/4" dado trick.  Can you spell pagoda?  Or double sided ski jump??

Bisquits it is, to which I'll be adding in some corner blocks from top to bottom.  Plus some other internal blocking/bracing to keep all the wood "cross-stressed"  (NO!!  Not "cross-dressed".  Preverts...)

Here's where I am so far.

Remeber the discussion about thickness planer and dado cutting??  That removes material, and if you don't do a test cut in a "scrap" area, you'll find out that you've blown through your work piece, even if you're set to a "0" sized bicuit...  Just like the above picture.  Glad I wuz thinking today...  As it turned out, a few of the cuts actually *did* come through, but only in little "spots".  I can recover on those, as they are hardly noticeable.  Just got to look out for glue squeezing out...

You'll have to imagine the peaked roof.  Figure about 45 degree angle (whatever that equates to in pitch for you carpenters out there.  I suppose that's a 12-12??).

Anyway, I'll add to this as I can, and am open to suggestions for it's purpose.  The dimensions are not quite correct for Reilley's Jewelry and Pawn Shop (or whatever I originally called it), but let's have what you think.  Other than the gallon 'o gas and a match deal, okay??   /DesktopModules/NTForums/themes/mls/emoticons/whistling.gif

Thanks kidz!!

 

[Mike Reilley]

Ahem....I believed we spoke about this earlier.....and there were other store names suggested

Stan's Silver Works
Dwight's Machine Shop
Dawg's Custom Cabinets
Weiners and Dogs -- J. Francis Proprietor
Cederleaf's Sign Shop
JJ's Hat and Snake Skin Shop
P. Ennis Construction
Stan and JJ's School of Locomotive Operations
JJ's Jerky and Leather Tanning Company

 

[Richard Weatherby]

LOOKS GREAT! I am really proud of you for carrying out this technique. I didn't biscuit the corners. I considered a spline, but decided to glue and shoot with brads. I was dealing with the board and battens.

Are you going to cut windows after it is assembled? If so how are you going to cut them?

Cutting the gables after assembly is certainly OK.

Will this be finished for our visit or will you be looking for some worker bees?

 

[Duncan]

Mike,
Thanks for the reminders...

I'm saving the Silver related aspects to honor my Aunt who lives in Newport Beach, and is a collector of siver antiquities.
She has expressed surprising interest in the garden rr thingy going on over here, and I thought it would please her to know she was recognized by dedicating a building to her.
Depending on how it turns out, this one might be hers...
Thanks again for the kick in the head to get me thinking...  

Dick,
Thank you.
The sides/ends are simply in place to validate that I have adequate depth in the cuts for the #0 biscuits to work without modification.

The window openings and gables will be marked and cut "pre-assembly", as I've got to pay attention to the orientation of the window sill to the bottom/top edges of the siding "planks", plus then back relieve the window openings for proper recess with the router table.

It may not be done by Mayday, but if close enough, I'll set it out for "effect" or "population" of the layout. If not, I may just bring it out of the garage for folks to ctitique. I'll not subject visitors to a Tom Sawyer "escapade"...   /DesktopModules/NTForums/themes/mls/emoticons/laugh.gif

Every step is a learning experience, and every 'finished' building gives me ideas of how to do the next one better.  /DesktopModules/NTForums/themes/mls/emoticons/blush.gif

 

[Matt Vogt]

Looks like a great start, whatever the end result, Duncan! I'll be looking forward to updates. This will definitely be filed away in the 'future project ideas' bin.

 

[Richard Smith]

I think I'd just honor all of the listed gentlemen...

Stan's Silver Works
Dwight's Machine Shop
Dawg's Custom Cabinets
Weiners and Dogs -- J. Francis Proprietor
Cederleaf's Sign Shop
JJ's Hat and Snake Skin Shop
P. Ennis Construction
Stan and JJ's School of Locomotive Operations
JJ's Jerky and Leather Tanning Company

....and make it an Old Geezer's Home
[][][]

 

[Dwight Ennis]

Posted By Mike Reilley on 02/23/2008 6:54 PM
P. Ennis Construction

Lest you don't get overinflated with your own creativity, I've been hearing that one ever since junior high school. 

 

 

[carpenter matt]

Duncan, You could add corner boards by running the building back trough the table saw with dado blades to inset the board a little. On the windows, make a template out of flat sock the size you want the opening for the the window casing and sill then use a plunge router to route that out with a bearing over straight bit(cut to depth need for trim. then make another to fit in that opening so it's locked in( create a rabit on template) then plge all the way trough. Just make sure to keep the templates square and use centerlines on them for easy alignment.

 

[Chuck Reynolds]

How about a boarding house

 

[Richard Weatherby]

I like it, a board-ing house.

 

[joe rusz]

That is one hefty house! Wish I knew my way around a woodworking shop like you do. Heck, I wish I had a woodworking shop.

 

[Duncan]

Bits at a time, Joe, bits at a time.
There is a ton of "how to" on this site, and it has helped me in ways I can't really describe.
Work your way into it, and grow from there.
(i refuse to take credit for the inspirations given to me from others before me...)

 

[pimanjc]

Duncan,
I am impressed with your woodworking skills.

See ya on Chat.

JimC.

 

[Duncan]

So I've gotten a little bit more done...

Built a template for the rough openings for some of the Grandt Line windows that will be in this, and after some initial testing, started to hack away at the buildings walls.

Old moto:  Measure with a micrometer, mark with a pin scribe, and cut with a chain saw...

Didn't turn out too badly for a first effort (so far).

The sequences are:

1. Template in place
2. Cutting with the roto tool
3. Dang, another hole!!
4. Must trim the hole (easier to make it bigger, rather than smaller)
5. Test fit
6. Two down, twenty more to go...

After all the window and door openings are made, I'll run the building panels through the router table to back relieve the openings, to make the wall thicknesses seem less than they really are...

I'm finding pleasure in being more precise in my markings, cuts, and trimming.  The template really eliminates the weandering of the roto tool's bit, and the Dremel Tool flex shaft is a definite "must HAVE" for anyone scratch building anything for their layout...  

I knew I could do a "clean" job if I took the time, hence the mad rush is *not* on with this one.  If it's done in time for the convention, great.  If not, I won't be distressed.  Folks can view it as a project underway...

More to come later...

 

[blackburn49]

Slick! I like the technique--the way it all comes together. In fact, I'm taking mental notes.

 

[denray]

Hey Duncan. looking good , and a good way to cut out the opening, If you want some kind of unusual window shape for your building, and you can not find the shape commercially,  I can cut you any shape out of wood or plastic on the laser machine. So keep up the good work, I will be looking forward in seeing future progress.
Dennis

 

[Richard Weatherby]

Looks great! I didn't route out the back on my lumber mill. You really can't see it. Besides I was concerned that the different thickness could cause the wood to act diiferently. I did dadoe the edge of the roof so that it didn't appear to thick at the edge. The only spot which appears to show any movement (after sitting outside for almost a year now) is at the ridge end of the gable. There was no easy way to fasten that thin end.

My technique on the window openings was to pay my son to cut them on his scroll saw.

I am planning on driving a couple thousand miles just to see this.

 

[Duncan]

Dennis,
I'll get in touch about cutting/lasing some styrene. Another member has offered some CNC work, but I've been slow getting back to him, and need to figure out what I need...
If you're local to Gilbert, a "look-see" might ease the translation...

Dick,
Roger on the scroll saw concept, but I was having mental trouble in how to ensure that I maintained appropriate alignment with the edges (horizontal) of the siding. The best way I could figure out a way around the issue was a template. If you look closely a the template, I have notches at the top and bottom to see where the upper and lower edges of the cast windows line up with the horizontal edges of the clap boards... Helps visually "index" the placement of the cuts, and still maintain proper alignment...
As far as relieving the back side of the openings, I had planned on using a 1/4" rabbet cutting bit, which will minimize the amount of material removed aroune the openings, yet grant the illusion of a very "thin" wall.
Coupled with interior stiffening ribs, I think I'll be okay, but I'll sit down and analyze the potential for irrational "shift"...
We'll know more later.

And to not seem disinterested or ungrateful, your comment of the multi K drive is taken as a very high compliment. Thank you...

Hope the product you see is not a disappointment (here, have some food instead). This building has a secondary (and more significant) meaning for me, and I want to do it "right"...

 

[Duncan]

Had a litle more phun today.
Punchin' holes...

The clamping grid on the portable work table came in handy for cutting out the windows...

A quicky stand up to give an idea of what things will be moving towards as a finished project.  There will be a double door with transom in between the two lower eight lite windows...

With all these windows, there should be plenty of light shining out...

Next up will be trimming the holes up so that the windows will fit, then the back relieving of the window openings, and before I assemble the sides together, internal reinforcement (blocking and such).

Should this thing be going into the builders blogs???

 

[Richard Weatherby]

Did you say a "double hung" door? I think you really meant a double door. Windows are double hung.
Pure harrasment. Looks great!! I didn't mean to apply pressure to have it done by convention.