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Finally got around to installing one of my Train-Li 45 DCC switch machines. Wow talk about ease of installation and being able to control with my NCE system and the low cost. Looks like I will be doing a few more for my reverse loops. No hasle wiring just connect to the track power nd you are good to go. Just the cats meow I was looking for. Later RJD

Eventally I will figure a way to have the lights correspond with the switch direction. Just a matter of removing a spring out of the AC manual switch machine. However I'm using some high stand swich stands that will look more realistice once i convert to the new switch machines. stay tunes for up dates.
 

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Yes, the body is sealed at the sides, the 2 wires that come out are sealed with silicon, and there are drain holes in the bottom. The circuit board is treated to resist moisture and mounted up away from the bottom of the housing. In addition the motor assembly is sealed.

I'll be posting some detailed pictures on my site.

Regards, Greg
 

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Jimtype: I use all manual switches on my entire RR. After finding these switch machines and how easy they where to hook to my DCC system I decided to just do the four switches for the two reverse loops. I can still get my exercise with the remaining manual switches. Later RJD
 

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VERY interesting!
- By the description, am I correct in assuming these are a "drop-in" equivalent to the LGB switch drives with a built-in decoder
Tom
 

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Yes... built in decoder...

They fit Aristo, and LGB (Because Aristo copied the tie spacing of LGB).

We have to experiment, there are a couple of other settings that we have not got to work yet, a "direction" setting, and also a speed control. To set the address, use the programming track, and just set CV1 as you would normally.

Regards, Greg
 

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Here is the second switch that will be installed in track with the high stand switch. I disconnected the lever so the target will turn as the switch is thrown to indicate its direction.
Later RJD
 

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Peter: I got them from Sunset valley Railroad. I use an Aristo globe and also install an 18 volt bulb in it to light them up at night. Later RJD
 

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I have one of the Ozark switches also but have not hooked it up yet. Have to remove the backing from the lenses first and then try it, as I have done the others. Later RJD
 

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Greg, I read the update on you web site, as my three switches arrived today. They seem to be well built devices but the manual is very disappointing.

This is my first foree into accessory decoders, and I'm a little confused as to whether this device is really following the NMRA standard for accessory decoders or it's set up to work like a simple locomotive decoder?

I base this on reading my MRC Prodigy Manual which claims that most accessory decoders use CV 513 for the accessory address. I was hoping to use the Route option of the Prodigy to control three switches that bring the trains out my basement into the yard.

But the ProDrive documentation says that CV 1 holds the address, which according to my understanding of mobile decoders can only hold numbers from 1-127, but the table in the manual says 1-255 (or as Greg points out on his site) 1-10,000 in the narrative of the manual either of which would would require extended addressing.

Now interestingly, the MRC manual references 1-255 as the range of accessory decoder addresses, and there is nothing in the ProDrive manual about what F key to use to activate the switch, so maybe it is an accesory decoder and will work fine with the MRC.

OK. So my questions are:

- Is this an accesory decoder ?
- Will my MRC Advance recognize it as one?
- Will I be able to use the MRC Route option which uses Accesory addresses?
- Do I need to make sure these switch decoders have different address than any locomotives I have?

Confused in CT.

Peter.
 

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Oh, one other question. Did you solder to the pins or use push on connectors? I am concerned about melting the silicone during the soldering step. Peter.
 

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Peter Mine operate using the Accessory mode. Use CV1 to program.
The wire are solder directly to the to output terminals leads that have the silicone protection. Then install heat shrink to the connection. No problem.
Later RJD
 

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Peter, apparently there is also a way to use the Function keys to operate the switch, we will see if we can get the whole manual.

But, it functions correctly as an accessory controller. RJ and I have not experimented with the max range of addresses, maybe we will do that this weekend.

My guess is that it will work up to the max value, but let's see...

Regards, Greg
 

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Peter: Are you using out doors? If so PM me. Later RJD
 
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