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Posted By Greg Elmassian on 01/14/2009 9:13 PM
Yep Nick, I'm throwing in the towel and going battery... ha ha ha.

Regards, Greg





HA... ya that'll be the day!!! battery power is good for my TV r/c ...he he he

Nick
 

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You are right Cliff, the portability got overlooked.

I'll stick to my rail clamps, use SJ is the best in my opinion, there is a guy on ebay selling what looks like hillman clones, less expensive, or you could get the new Aristo ones, the piece of extruded metal with 2 screws. You get what you pay for with these, but even the Aristo ones are serviceable if you are careful with them.

If you are taking things down and putting back up, a hex head driver in a small electric screwdriver should be very convenient. I would not recommend the Aristo joiners for this, they are not sturdy, and repeated loosening and tightening will wear them out fast.

Regards, Greg
 

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Don't have to worry about conductivity if youz goes battery power!!!! Hee hee had to say it Best part of all I CHOOSE which way i want to run depending on the engine or setup i'm runnning that day. The Regal LOL
 

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Portable. Clamps are good for portability. For ease of installation, especially indoors, You can't beat the clamps that attach from the top, like the aristos. Set your cordless drill clutch to the lowest setting, and you're good to go, tightening the clamps from above. I would find tightening the hex heads on a platform layout tedious, unless you track had enough clearance so the hex key could go all the way around
 

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Posted By blueregal on 01/15/2009 8:31 AM
Don't have to worry about conductivity if youz goes battery power!!!! Hee hee had to say it Best part of all I CHOOSE which way i want to run depending on the engine or setup i'm runnning that day. The Regal LOL


Of course, if you add steering and big knobby tires you could get rid of the track altogether. Just thnk, no cleaning track, no switches, no derailing, no concern of stringlining a train on a curve... hey you could make whatever radius turn the gap between cars could handle!

Tie the front and rear axles of each car together with a cross connection and the cars will still follow each other just like those baggage cars at the airport do!


Yes-sir-ee! Live Steam Off Road trains! Now THAT is the future to look forward to!
 

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Ray
no,,, I was just sharing what Eds favorite past time was . there is nothing wrong with that. I am purposing not to use the B word on any thread unless others bring it up.

I also know Ed very well and believe me, he WILL get me back. He has left me to listen to Carol ramble on for hours. Thats punishment enough.
 

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Ed clean the wheels on the engines Put some paper towels on the track and PUT RUBBING ALCOHOL ON THE RAILS OVER THE TOWELS. DONT SOAK IT WHERE IT WILL CROSS BETWEEN THE 2 RAILS. SET YOUR ENGINE ON THE P TOWELS AND THROTTLE UP THE WHEELS WILL TURN AND CLEAN OFF THE GUNK.
 

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Well Ed, since the topic went from your question, to being harassed about cleaning your rails manually (!!) to suggestions on how to clean wheels,

how will you solve your track continuity problems?

Regards, Greg
 
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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
I went around the loops and blew all the black carbon dust out from in between the joints. Now all the trains run fine.


Oh, and Marty, I showed Carol your post about "rambling on". Boy is she mad at you! She also wasn't thrilled about the "women cleaning up after the men" comment you made in your email yesterday either. I'd be careful the next time you see her (Council Bluffs train show). She might just kick your ___.
 

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Ed,
Glad to see you solved your problem. you might want to go around and tighten up all the joiners to keep it from happening again.... and Marty i wouldnt want to be you the next time you meet his wife your IN TROUBLE... he he he
 

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How portable is your track layout? If it is built in module form, you could solder the joints of the track that are permanently mounted and use clamps at the module connections. Am I still missing something?
 

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Posted By Madman on 01/18/2009 4:25 PM
How portable is your track layout? If it is built in module form, you could solder the joints of the track that are permanently mounted and use clamps at the module connections. Am I still missing something?


You don't even need to do that. On the Del Oro Pacific modular unit we just use LGB couplers between the modules and there is a "trailer-type" 2-wire connector that powers up the module and passes the power to the next one. We don't rely on the couplers for power transfer.
 
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