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the TE 27 doesn't work??

3633 Views 17 Replies 8 Participants Last post by  cape cod Todd
Hello All
Well I made the plunge after reading alot and listening to you guys and your advice and then reading a post from ole Polk himself about discontinuing the 75 mhz system in favor of the newer 2.4. He also wrote that the 27mhz will continue on. I ordered the 27 system along with an elite dual voltage unit to power it and an extra fan to cool it. Now I have it and the only trouble is I can't get the dang thing to work.
I followed all the directions and I think they are a bit lacking. I put in fresh batteries but the light on the transmitter keeps blinking at #1. I have linked the transmitter to the receiver but I'm not sure that I set the channel properly. From the transmitter I can hit a key and the code signal light will blink on the receiver but checking the voltage at several points along the wires I am getting the full voltage to the track? From my understanding this is good except the receiver is supposed to be able to change this with input from the transmitter. To you guys that have this system I bet I'm doing sonething stupid but what is it?? I went with this system because it was supposed to be simple.
I currently have it all unplugged and batteries removed hoping that it will "forget" whatever I did and I can start over.
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It does look like everything is working but what concerns me is that the green light on the transmitter never goes out. It keeps on blinking. I changed the batteries out and tested each one and they are brandy new. The wiring is correct and both fuses are fine. I figured if I connected my multi meter to the receiver terminals I should get the votage to go up and down and it did by a couple of volts but shouldn't it go from 24 down to 0 ???
I think I might not be setting the channel correctly. My instruction printout goes from step #3 to #5 ??? It's like I'm missing a page or something. I will have to try the steps over tomorrow and try it the way you suggested and cross my fingers. I hope I don't have a bum unit.
Hi Well I got it to work thanks to the input here. I think it was a case of having everything too close. The instructions say to be aleast 2 feet away from the receiver but nothing about the power supply being an equal distance away. I stretched out all the cords repeated the procedure and watched as my test light and volt meter did what I was hoping for.
So far so good. What I don't like is that I have to press the go button 12 times to get the sound going, 24 times to get the headlight dimly lit, 30+ times to start the engine crawling and near 40 to get it up to speed. This has to be the momentum feature in action, don't like it. I would like to moving within 5 presses or so. my thumb will be falling off if I attempt any switching maneuvers!!!!
Another weird thing is the amp needle on the elite doesn't seem to move and it should when a train is moving, right?
Plus now that i have put alot more juice to the track I seem to be having more electrical issues (conductivity) in areas that never had them before?? Weird
So far I like the TE and it was jsut what I was looking for.
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The elite has 3 settings a 13, 18 and 23 volts. i'm running the 12amp 23volt for G scale. The instructions on the TE said to use linear on all except Aristo engines and the PWC for Aristo. The why is another question.
Now there is another function that can be tailored from 1.5 to several seconds and this comes into play when reversing. It is a safety system so as not to shock motors. Can I leave my speed the same hit the reverse key which will stop the engine after a couple of seconds it will reverse direction say to back into a siding and then hit it again and it will drive out. Is this the intention of the "soft reverse" Paul mentioned???
It would be nice if there was a way to shut off the momentum. It seems that just the process of tapping the forward key several times would act as a gentle way to get the train rolling. It is curious about the capacitor being replaced to get rid of the momentum feature and if anyone knows more about that please let us know.
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Well the verdict is in and I like the TE. I think I finally got it working\ programmed properly and it seems to do the job. I press and hold the go button adn it works just as good as pressing it repeatedly. THe soft stop and reverse of direction is good for dropping off of an end car into a siding but not so good if that car is in the middle of the train.
Just like Paul Norton wrote you have to be quick with the switch and the buttons as to not smash a car into the bumper, well I did and sure enough pulling out of the siding the last car derailed and tipped over luckily all the passengers had just exited the combine car but the freight onboard was heavily jostled.
Yes Torby you guys helped thanks.
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