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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello All
Well I made the plunge after reading alot and listening to you guys and your advice and then reading a post from ole Polk himself about discontinuing the 75 mhz system in favor of the newer 2.4. He also wrote that the 27mhz will continue on. I ordered the 27 system along with an elite dual voltage unit to power it and an extra fan to cool it. Now I have it and the only trouble is I can't get the dang thing to work.
I followed all the directions and I think they are a bit lacking. I put in fresh batteries but the light on the transmitter keeps blinking at #1. I have linked the transmitter to the receiver but I'm not sure that I set the channel properly. From the transmitter I can hit a key and the code signal light will blink on the receiver but checking the voltage at several points along the wires I am getting the full voltage to the track? From my understanding this is good except the receiver is supposed to be able to change this with input from the transmitter. To you guys that have this system I bet I'm doing sonething stupid but what is it?? I went with this system because it was supposed to be simple.
I currently have it all unplugged and batteries removed hoping that it will "forget" whatever I did and I can start over.
Thanks
Todd
 

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Um.. Sounds like everything's working.

1. Turn the transmitter on. One of the LEDs starts blinking. Hold the FRQ button down. The LED will stay on for a moment, then start blinking. Press the FRQ button to move it from 1 to 2 to 3... to whatever frequency you want. In some locations, there may be one or two that don't work as well as others due to interferance.

2. Press one of the little buttons right under the row of LEDs. You use these to set the channel. I think of "train 24" as frequency 2, channel 4.

3. Press and hold the little button on the receiver till you see the green light come on. Press and hold one of the buttons A through F on the remote and you'll see the green light start blinking. Press one of the A-F buttons again and you're ready. A through F program the receiver for the accelleration and decelleration rate. I usually use B. Once you've done this, you should see the green led come on any time you press a button on the transmitter.

To measure the output from the receiver, you'll need to put some sort of load on it, like a train or a light bulb. An auto test light works well. You should be able to make it brighter or dimmer with the transmitter.

If the receiver won't turn any led on, even the red one, check the red fuse. If it insists on blowing fuses, you have the power supply polarity reversed.

Sometimes, the transmitter will appear to work, but the receiver's green LED won't light. If this happens, try changing the transmitter batteries. Sometimes I pick up a transmitter and it won't turn on. I'll find the batteries are like 0.8v each.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Hi
It does look like everything is working but what concerns me is that the green light on the transmitter never goes out. It keeps on blinking. I changed the batteries out and tested each one and they are brandy new. The wiring is correct and both fuses are fine. I figured if I connected my multi meter to the receiver terminals I should get the votage to go up and down and it did by a couple of volts but shouldn't it go from 24 down to 0 ???
I think I might not be setting the channel correctly. My instruction printout goes from step #3 to #5 ??? It's like I'm missing a page or something. I will have to try the steps over tomorrow and try it the way you suggested and cross my fingers. I hope I don't have a bum unit.
Thanks
 

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Posted By cape cod Todd on 08/09/2008 8:12 PM
Hi
I figured if I connected my multi meter to the receiver terminals I should get the votage to go up and down and it did by a couple of volts but shouldn't it go from 24 down to 0 ???


That's not necessarily so. There is a residual voltage that stays with the system (either in PWM or linear) unless you put a load on it. Try putting a 12 volt auto bulb across the output and check the voltage with a meter again.
I use a TE for my reversing unit and when the trains reach the end and wait are waiting to reverse, the voltage goes full scale. Put a load on it (or when it reverses and the trains start to move again) and it drops to what it is.
PWM mode should always show full voltage on the meter with no load because it always puts out full voltage in that mode..., it just does it in spurts.

As to the transmitter blinking, that could be a defect.
 

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When programming the TE, it is sometimes necessary to keep the power supply 3 feet or more away from the receiver, and also keep the transmitter far away form the power source.
 

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Todd,
The channel indicator light on the transmitter will blink continuously to show you the transmitter is turned on. It only goes out when you press the on/off button or after a long period of time it will auto shutoff.

If you have the receiver set to PWC you will need a digital meter to measure the voltage. PWC will fool a analog meter.
Another trick for best reception is to seperate the Elite from the receiver by at least 3 ft.

Tom Ruby, I am pretty show the first button press sets the momentum and the second button press sets the reverse delay.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Hi Well I got it to work thanks to the input here. I think it was a case of having everything too close. The instructions say to be aleast 2 feet away from the receiver but nothing about the power supply being an equal distance away. I stretched out all the cords repeated the procedure and watched as my test light and volt meter did what I was hoping for.
So far so good. What I don't like is that I have to press the go button 12 times to get the sound going, 24 times to get the headlight dimly lit, 30+ times to start the engine crawling and near 40 to get it up to speed. This has to be the momentum feature in action, don't like it. I would like to moving within 5 presses or so. my thumb will be falling off if I attempt any switching maneuvers!!!!
Another weird thing is the amp needle on the elite doesn't seem to move and it should when a train is moving, right?
Plus now that i have put alot more juice to the track I seem to be having more electrical issues (conductivity) in areas that never had them before?? Weird
So far I like the TE and it was jsut what I was looking for.
 

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Posted By cape cod Todd on 08/10/2008 11:13 AM
Hi Well I got it to work thanks to the input here. I think it was a case of having everything too close. The instructions say to be aleast 2 feet away from the receiver but nothing about the power supply being an equal distance away. I stretched out all the cords repeated the procedure and watched as my test light and volt meter did what I was hoping for.
So far so good. What I don't like is that I have to press the go button 12 times to get the sound going, 24 times to get the headlight dimly lit, 30+ times to start the engine crawling and near 40 to get it up to speed. This has to be the momentum feature in action, don't like it. I would like to moving within 5 presses or so. my thumb will be falling off if I attempt any switching maneuvers!!!!
Another weird thing is the amp needle on the elite doesn't seem to move and it should when a train is moving, right?
Plus now that i have put alot more juice to the track I seem to be having more electrical issues (conductivity) in areas that never had them before?? Weird
So far I like the TE and it was jsut what I was looking for.



Agreed, the momentum control is set wayyyyyy too long even at the minimum setting. This is characteristic of some of the TE units, depending on its generation.

There is an internal capacitor that you can change that will reduce the momentum. I've seen this bantered about in the past, but don't recall which cap it is. (I would also like to know because it also bugs me..., anyone???)

Regarding pressing the button a "bunch" of times, sometimes I also find this necessary, but usually just holding it long enough will accomplish the same end. Sometimes it seems the number of presses is related to the distance from the receiver or...
 

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Does the Elite have an HO/G Scale switch?

With battery power, if the Train Engineer is set for PWC (switch towards the red LED) the momentum and soft reverse features do not work. When set to linear, they function perfectly. I don’t know if this is the same when running a power pack.

I find that using the B setting for momentum and soft reverse is a good choice. The locomotives do not start or stop suddenly, even when the emergency stop button is pushed, but do get under way or slow down without a long delay. The B setting also allows enough time to couple or uncouple a car when using the soft reverse.
 

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Posted By Paul Norton on 08/10/2008 12:55 PM
Does the Elite have an HO/G Scale switch?
With battery power, if the Train Engineer is set for PWC (switch towards the red LED) the momentum and soft reverse features do not work. When set to linear, they function perfectly. I don’t know if this is the same when running a power pack.
I find that using the B setting for momentum and soft reverse is a good choice. The locomotives do not start or stop suddenly, even when the emergency stop button is pushed, but do get under way or slow down without a long delay. The B setting also allows enough time to couple or uncouple a car when using the soft reverse.


The one Todd and I refer to, even the "A" setting (shortest) is still several seconds and it is frustrating because you don't know if you have a problem (i.e., no signal contact so push it again, and again, and again, etc.,), or if it did contact and is just taking its own sweet time.
As I said, this had been discussed in the past and there is a capacitor that can be changed. I actually spoke with George Schreyer the other day on this matter when he was over and he recalled it, but didn't remember which cap either.
Again, anyone else remember??? Maybe I need to post this over at the AristoCraft site.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
The elite has 3 settings a 13, 18 and 23 volts. i'm running the 12amp 23volt for G scale. The instructions on the TE said to use linear on all except Aristo engines and the PWC for Aristo. The why is another question.
Now there is another function that can be tailored from 1.5 to several seconds and this comes into play when reversing. It is a safety system so as not to shock motors. Can I leave my speed the same hit the reverse key which will stop the engine after a couple of seconds it will reverse direction say to back into a siding and then hit it again and it will drive out. Is this the intention of the "soft reverse" Paul mentioned???
It would be nice if there was a way to shut off the momentum. It seems that just the process of tapping the forward key several times would act as a gentle way to get the train rolling. It is curious about the capacitor being replaced to get rid of the momentum feature and if anyone knows more about that please let us know.
Todd
 

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You can turn off the momentum feature when first linking the Receiver & Transmitter. Check the instruction sheet. It's one of the features set during the procedure.

I can't remember exactly the procedure, it's documented on the site somewhere & in the instruction sheet I've saved somewhere, but if I recall correctly, hitting "A" instead of "B" as outlined above turns it off vs setting it to it's lowest (least) setting.

Personally, I like the momentum & soft reverse. For bigger longer trains, it eases the strain on the couplers, motors, gears from Accidental button presses, etc.

--
craig
 

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Posted By craigcoffman on 08/11/2008 4:21 AM
You can turn off the momentum feature when first linking the Receiver & Transmitter. Check the instruction sheet. It's one of the features set during the procedure.
I can't remember exactly the procedure, it's documented on the site somewhere & in the instruction sheet I've saved somewhere, but if I recall correctly, hitting "A" instead of "B" as outlined above turns it off vs setting it to it's lowest (least) setting. --
craig


No you really can't on this series. You can only set it to the the minimum, which I agree is way too long.
 

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From my Instruction Sheet:


Pressing "A" gives the fastest stops & starts, while pressing "E" gives the slowest stops & starts. The second button pressed when linking determines the time delay when changing the direction of the train. Pressing "A" yields a delay of .5 seconds. Pressing "E" gives a delay of 2.5 seconds. All other letters lie between these delays in .5 second steps.
NOTE: On Series 2000, Rev. A, pressing the "A" button first removes the momentum function. The slowest stops & starts begin with button "B".


My unit was purchased during 2007 & is, I believe a Series 2000, Rev. A. I have older on-board units & I think they are, as you say, unable to have the momentum disabled.

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craig
 

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Posted By cape cod Todd on 08/10/2008 10:01 PM
The instructions on the TE said to use linear on all except Aristo engines and the PWC for Aristo. The why is another question.

Can I leave my speed the same hit the reverse key which will stop the engine after a couple of seconds it will reverse direction say to back into a siding and then hit it again and it will drive out. Is this the intention of the "soft reverse" Paul mentioned???

Todd



There were reports PWC was hard on LGB motors and some sound systems.

Yes you could use the soft reverse twice to enter and leave a siding if you are fast enough on the switch.

We use soft reverse in our Saturday morning railway operations when switching. We stop our train when the car we want to switch is a car length behind the spur switch. Then the train is cut behind that car. The train moves forward and stops when the car has cleared the switch. That allows the brakeman to throw the switch for the spur. If the soft reverse was used instead, I guarantee you a piece of ballast would foul the switch points and the train would back through it and derail before you could clear the debris or hit the emergency stop button. Please don’t ask me how I know.

Once in the spur the reverse button is pushed and the soft reverse function begins. In a perfect world the locomotive will gradually slow to a stop, pause while you uncouple the car, change direction and slowly move back out onto the mainline. In real life, it will speed into the spur pushing all the cars in it into the bumper, locking the couplers so tightly together you can’t uncouple, and then speed back onto the mainline with a whole string of unwanted cars until the last one with truck that derailed when it hit the bumper hits the switch and falls over.

Did you try the momentum and soft reverse functions without PWC to see if they function better?
 

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The question is, have we helped him get it working?
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Well the verdict is in and I like the TE. I think I finally got it working\ programmed properly and it seems to do the job. I press and hold the go button adn it works just as good as pressing it repeatedly. THe soft stop and reverse of direction is good for dropping off of an end car into a siding but not so good if that car is in the middle of the train.
Just like Paul Norton wrote you have to be quick with the switch and the buttons as to not smash a car into the bumper, well I did and sure enough pulling out of the siding the last car derailed and tipped over luckily all the passengers had just exited the combine car but the freight onboard was heavily jostled.
Yes Torby you guys helped thanks.
Todd
 
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