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For several years I've wondered whether the plastic static model of the Stephenson Rocket could be adapted to run on 45 mm track. I ran across a kit at a swap meet and took it home. The model is 1-26th scale and the section of plastic rail is about 3/8 inch wider than the 45 mm rails. Can I use a driver from a "G" gauge loco and position it so that it will straddle the rails without tangling with the boiler? As it turned out, it IS possible.
Someone posted pictures of a project a while back that showed a Bachmann loco wheel that had the plastic filler removed. This results in a wheel with slimmer spokes. An axle and drive wheels from a late version 10 wheeler was found in my wheel box and work began. Some filing reduced the crank pin bolster to make the spoke look like all the others. The hole was filled with putty. .This is the first picture (taken 11-15-08) which tells me when this project started in earnest.
The plastic spacer that separates the two wheels broke up (Chinese plastic) so I made a new one of square styrene tubing and some tiny brass nuts and bolts. There was need to cut away some of the frame and rebuild the journal to accept the larger axle shaft.The wheel JUST cleared the boiler.
The only place that a motor would possibly fit was in the tender. I chose the Hartland power unit from a Woody that has sat unbuilt for several years. Carbon pickups were installed above the axles. The motor stands erect and goes into a hole that was cut in the bottom of the water tank. The wheels in the tender are Hartland's. The spoked units were turned from the all plastic wheels from a Bachmann 10 wheeler (battery version from long ago) painted and glued onto the solid wheels.
A styrene tube and cap was fitted inside the tank and lead shot filled the tank. That added enough weight to provide traction.
A number of the parts that came from the original model were worked into the operation. The side rods, crosshead and guides all work after a bit of adjustment.
Just enough weight was added to the boiler above the driver axle to assure smooth operation. Notice that the drive wheel on this side was worn to the point that it shows a brass finish. I don't have a replacement. If anyone has a spare wheel from one of the latest versions Id be happy to accept it and replace the one that is on there now. I hope this inspires someone else to do this job for themselves. I'm amazed at how well it runs. If you'd like to see it run, you can find it on the Door Hollow Shortline website. The link is in my signature space. Thanks for your interest.
Someone posted pictures of a project a while back that showed a Bachmann loco wheel that had the plastic filler removed. This results in a wheel with slimmer spokes. An axle and drive wheels from a late version 10 wheeler was found in my wheel box and work began. Some filing reduced the crank pin bolster to make the spoke look like all the others. The hole was filled with putty. .This is the first picture (taken 11-15-08) which tells me when this project started in earnest.
The plastic spacer that separates the two wheels broke up (Chinese plastic) so I made a new one of square styrene tubing and some tiny brass nuts and bolts. There was need to cut away some of the frame and rebuild the journal to accept the larger axle shaft.The wheel JUST cleared the boiler.
The only place that a motor would possibly fit was in the tender. I chose the Hartland power unit from a Woody that has sat unbuilt for several years. Carbon pickups were installed above the axles. The motor stands erect and goes into a hole that was cut in the bottom of the water tank. The wheels in the tender are Hartland's. The spoked units were turned from the all plastic wheels from a Bachmann 10 wheeler (battery version from long ago) painted and glued onto the solid wheels.
A styrene tube and cap was fitted inside the tank and lead shot filled the tank. That added enough weight to provide traction.
A number of the parts that came from the original model were worked into the operation. The side rods, crosshead and guides all work after a bit of adjustment.
Just enough weight was added to the boiler above the driver axle to assure smooth operation. Notice that the drive wheel on this side was worn to the point that it shows a brass finish. I don't have a replacement. If anyone has a spare wheel from one of the latest versions Id be happy to accept it and replace the one that is on there now. I hope this inspires someone else to do this job for themselves. I'm amazed at how well it runs. If you'd like to see it run, you can find it on the Door Hollow Shortline website. The link is in my signature space. Thanks for your interest.