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The Kalamazoo Bash

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9.3K views 44 replies 13 participants last post by  jody  
#1 · (Edited)
A few years ago, a dear railroad friend decided to liquidate his collection and he graciously gave me several pieces of equipment. Part of that package was three Kalamazoo 4-4-0s. That friend died several years ago and the Kalamazoos have been sitting on the shelf for almost as long. It was time to do something about that.

Of the three engines, two were dead. This friend of mine had a habit of drilling holes in the gearboxes of locomotives and blasting expanding foam grease in there. Well, that fried two of the motors. The third one was spared and I can only imagine that because the paint scheme was so ugly, it never saw any run time.

I decided to tackle this project for many reasons:

My friend was largely responsible for fanning the flames for my interest in the hobby and of all the equipment he gave me, this engine is one of the few pieces that I still have from him. I don't normally get sentimental over material objects, but I think he'd get a kick out of this kitbash.

These Kalamazoos are virtually indestructible, if you refrain from using expanding foam grease. I was once told that a Kalamazoo set was running in the window of a local toy shop for ten years straight and was only taken down when the shop closed. What they lack in detail, they make up for in performance: smooth, quiet, powerful. They are some of the only large scale trains produced in the the US. As an interesting side note, Bangor Train Factory sent a Kalamazoo set to President Reagan after hearing about his wish to own own a train set: Hail to the Chief
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No one else bothered to make a standard gauge 4-4-0, one of the most important, beautiful designs in American railroad history. I realize that Hartland carried the torch, but more on that later. I've been so frustrated that the reason no one else (Bachmann, Accucraft, ect.) has produced this locomotive is this obsession with scale. A standard gauge 4-4-0 in the correct scale would need to be 1:32, which is quite small and no Victorian-era rolling stock exists for that scale. I think Delton had the right idea to produce 1:24, which is quite simply a nice size, and even Accucraft was on board for their first couple models. But once 1:20.3 took hold, 1:24 went out of style and narrow gauge became the standard for any pre-1900 models. None of this would be a big deal, except that any subsequent 4-4-0 models available were of the narrow gauge variety, which lack the tall, high-stepping drivers that distinctly characterize the proportions of the standard gauge prototypes.

As I eluded to, Hartland largely carried the torch for both Kalamazoo and Delton. It an interesting story that you can read here: http://www.npcrr.com/Articles/PhilJensenStory/ThePhilJensenStory.pdf
Delton toyed with shoehorning a Kalamazoo motorblock under their C-16 body with pleasing results (see picture below) but that never saw production. The Hartland 4-4-0 is not a far cry from the original Kalamazoo and featured some much-needed details, some from Delton, but maintained the build quality. Honestly, that would be a much better starting point for this project, but Hartlands are hard to find and expensive. Additionally, I wanted to give this humble toy a chance of becoming a model.

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#2 ·
I wanted to start with something a bit easier on this project, so the first order of business is the tender. I began by scraping off the raised striping. Fortunately, the plastic was relatively soft, so this was fairly easy. Unfortunately, so rivets were lost in the process. I will have to find some pins the same size to replace them.

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I then sanded smooth the high spots. I will need to use some putty to fill the low spots. Any putty recommendations?

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#3 ·
Next, I removed the wood load. This was much more challenging than anticipated. I bashed one of these tenders a few years ago and the load popped right off. This one was practically welded to the shell, so more drastic measures were taken. Note the scrap weights my friend had installed.

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I sawed off the toolbox at the back and filled the hole to make way for a more detailed unit.
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I added blocks on the underside of the chassis to extend the front and add some meat to the rear for mounting points.
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I notched out the back for a Kadee, mounted the toolbox, and built a step.
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Stay tuned for more!
 
#15 ·
You might want to look at the "Army Painter" line of paints. They are made for fantasy gaming (think Warhammer or Dungeons&Dragons) but are very good paints. They have a nice range of silver metallics, one of them might be a good choice of "Russia Iron".

Hope it helps.
 
#16 ·
There’s a brand of paint called “Mr. Metal Color” that can be buffed to a metallic finish. I’ve used the Mr. Metal Color ‘Iron’ to represent that Russian Iron color. They also have a Dark Iron color that might be worth looking into.

Looking at photos of the restored Glenbrook and my handiwork, the Iron seems a bit light. But then again if I remember correctly, there was variations in the coloration.

-Nick
 
#17 ·
There’s a brand of paint called “Mr. Metal Color” that can be buffed to a metallic finish. I’ve used the Mr. Metal Color ‘Iron’ to represent that Russian Iron color. They also have a Dark Iron color that might be worth looking into.

Looking at photos of the restored Glenbrook and my handiwork, the Iron seems a bit light. But then again if I remember correctly, there was variations in the coloration.

-Nick
Thanks Nick! It looks like a somewhat comparable product to the Metalizer stuff. Do you have any pictures of your work?
 
#20 ·
Some long-overdue progress.

Finally ordered some filler and started working on patching up the tender. I just ordered some rivets (https://www.tichytraingroup.com/Shop/tabid/91/c/o_nbw-rivets/p/8077-06-diameter-rivet/Default.aspx ) to replace the ones that got sheared off in the molded stripe removal.
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I didn't initially want to start on the locomotive until the tender was mostly done, but now that I'm waiting for filler to dry and rivets to arrive, I dove in. I started by removing the rest of the detail parts and then started removing the molded-in bits. I got sidetracked and installed the new stack, complete with saddle. I just reused the all-thread out of the old stack to attach it.
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The glue holding this thing together is nearly indestructible. In many places, the glue is stronger than the plastic; case in point, the sand dome took part of the boiler with it when I tried prying it out.
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At this point, I decided it was time to tear the whole thing down. Fairly straight forward with the bolt-on items.
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#21 ·
Everything else was glued together and quite difficult to take apart. I had to go slowly or risk breaking large parts I needed. The cab was first, and I just had to slowly pry around the floor, then finally away from the boiler. Getting the boiler off the chassis was very difficult and I wouldn't have attempted it had I not had spare shells in case things went south. Took me a long time to figure out where the seams were. Had to cut the extra saddle off the bottom, then pry the running boards away before I could separate the boiler.
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Finished up by scraping and sanding off the boiler bands and other castings. Called it quits when my fingers got too sore.
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#23 ·
I'm just having too much fun with this project! This is the most extensively I've bashed a locomotive and I feel that things are moving along quite well.

After getting distracted by the locomotive, I turned my attention back to the tender. I got to work replacing all the rivets that got accidentally sliced off when I was removing the striping. I ordered these Tichy Train Group Rivets and they're a perfect match (Thanks RGSNH!).
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I made a coupler lift bar as well. At this point, I figured it was almost time to prime it, do a final sanding, and finish adding details before paint. However, the more I got to looking at it, the more I thought that it looked too tall. After referencing some prototype photos, I feel that this is the case. I think I'll end up shortening it after I build the cab.
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Also, I'm not sure about the rear stepboard I made. I like the looks but I doesn't seem like many standard gauge road engines from the era had them. Chime in if you have thoughts on this.
 
#24 ·
And back to the locomotive. I realized that I forgot to take pictures of making dome sleeves, but I'll take a few when I make the steam dome base. It's not too exciting, mostly a lot of sanding.

So I knew early on that the boiler needed to be lengthened, and I initially thought I would do that by adding onto the rear. However, after studying the proportions against prototypes, it was clear that it would have to be grafted in the mid-section.
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You can see here where I've moved the boiler back so that the wagon top now sits between the drivers, where the firebox would be.
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I found some electrical conduit that was fairly close in size, so I cut a slit down the middle on the table saw and cut off the graft section. By experimenting with different widths of wood, I was able to spread the slit and get the diameter I was looking for. I used a pipe cutter to divide the boiler.
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I whittled out a spacer that would also connect all the pieces together with screws, in addition to glue.

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#25 ·
While the glue was drying, I worked on the pilot. This area simply needed a lot of "visual weight" removed. I narrowed the whole front frame/pilot piece to match the width of the rear section of the locomotive. I cut out the mid-section of the frame to make it more see-through. Finally, the crosshead support was significantly trimmed down.
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All together, it looks something like this:
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#30 ·
While the glue was drying, I worked on the pilot.
I notice that the pilot truck acquired some very nice metal wheels,

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and looking back through the thread I saw where they suddenly arrived, but not where they came from. :) Whose wheels are they? I need some for my non-working 4-4-0 (the one with the bad motor and broken bits.)
 
#33 ·
It's been a while since the last update. I can only work on projects when I visit my folks, where I have access to a workshop, but that's only every couple months or so. However, I've been slowly plugging away at this project and I feel like I'm making some headway.

The project last stalled when I decided that I should build the cab before moving on. This turned out to be quite the ordeal. I thought I could simply cut the cab walls out of mahogany 1/8 ply, then "laminate" the sides with milled cedar. Well, it's worked so far, except for the simply part. But I'm pleased with the results thus far.

Here's the cardboard mock-up

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The walls cut out
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Sides assembled and trim added to the insides of all the openings to cover the plywood ends
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Starting the lamination process
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How it currently sits
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#36 ·
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After biking across the country, I finally have some time to return to this project before returning to work full-time. Hopefully I can make some decent headway.

I've continued my progress on the cab. I got the window sills and center posts in. Before I continue though, I need some input. I am wondering if I made the pitch of the roof too steep. I made a recent visit to the CSRM and was again referencing a few cabs there, and mine seems a bit steep. Additionally, if there is too much pitch, can I live with it. Let me know your thoughts.

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#42 ·
Additionally, if there is too much pitch, can I live with it. Let me know your thoughts.
I thought that flipping through the photos and diagrams in this would lead me to a conclusion.
It did not.
What it accomplished was illustrate there was a range of cab roof shapes and slopes.
Including the wild cards of domes and that reverse curve style which likely has an architectural name but all I can think to say is like some Wabash caboose cupola roofs.

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Here's that roof shape,