Getting ready for open house this Thursday, I was cleaning the wheels on my USA 44-Tonner that I had been using to drag around my latest track cleaning car concoction (actually drags around a drywall sander head rather than me doing it on a pole..., and works extremely well).
Anyway, I noted that on one axle when a cotton swab was held against the wheels, they stopped turning, indicating to me that the gear shaft had cracked. This is quite common on USA engines and going to my drawer, I came up with about 10 USA axles (from GPs and NWs) in similar condition.
Not wanting to order a set of new axles and waiting for them to arrive (typically back ordered too), I decided to try a fix.
In the past, some had talked of wrapping the axle with fishing line and coating it with CA, and I was about to do that but decided to see what was available in the workroom/garage first. I came across a piece of 3/8" brass tube and determined that the ID was identical to the axle shaft OD.
Aha!!! All I had to do was cut a piece of the brass about 1/4" long and press it on the shaft.
OK...., I could press it on in the vice, but getting it started is the problem. If you just try to press it on, it will just dig into the plastic and cut up the shaft. Somehow, I needed to expand the end of the brass s oit could self-center. I pulled out my flare tool (used for flaring brake lines, gas lines, etc.), expanded the end a little and the brass was able to center on the plastic shaft so I could press it on. Cool!!! I did both sides as both sides were cracked.
Then came time to press the wheels back on to the gear. But now the gear shaft was very tight. I used a T" nut with the "flat" against the wheel and the center protecting the outter axle and was easily able to press on the first wheel. When I tried to do the second wheel, it would seem that the first wheel would rather press further on (too far) than get the second wheel started. Finally, I was able to get the second wheel on and started, but at that point, the first side was in so far that the wheels were under-gauge and the gear was in the wrong position relative to the worm gear on the motor.
"
I was able to place the wheels back in the vise, and using a wrench on the wheel, whack it (the wrench) with a hammer to spread the wheels and get them back into gauge. Great! Reassemble the trucks and back to cleaning.
OK..., now I find that the other wheel on this truck suffered the same malady with both sides also cracked on the gear shafts. /DesktopModules/NTForums/themes/mls/emoticons/pinch.gif" Disassemble, make and flare two more brass sleeves, press them on the gear shaft and press the first wheel on just to start it. Not wanting to press the first one on too far this time, I took some 16 gauge wire and placed two wraps around the axle between the brass collar and the gear that had just started on. These would serve as a spacer too keep the axle from going under-gauge. I was able to get the second wheel on and the wire served it purpose perfectly, easily unwrapped once the wheel was in place, and this set came out in gauge the first time. /DesktopModules/NTForums/themes/mls/emoticons/w00t.gif"
Anyway, I noted that on one axle when a cotton swab was held against the wheels, they stopped turning, indicating to me that the gear shaft had cracked. This is quite common on USA engines and going to my drawer, I came up with about 10 USA axles (from GPs and NWs) in similar condition.
Not wanting to order a set of new axles and waiting for them to arrive (typically back ordered too), I decided to try a fix.
In the past, some had talked of wrapping the axle with fishing line and coating it with CA, and I was about to do that but decided to see what was available in the workroom/garage first. I came across a piece of 3/8" brass tube and determined that the ID was identical to the axle shaft OD.
Aha!!! All I had to do was cut a piece of the brass about 1/4" long and press it on the shaft.
OK...., I could press it on in the vice, but getting it started is the problem. If you just try to press it on, it will just dig into the plastic and cut up the shaft. Somehow, I needed to expand the end of the brass s oit could self-center. I pulled out my flare tool (used for flaring brake lines, gas lines, etc.), expanded the end a little and the brass was able to center on the plastic shaft so I could press it on. Cool!!! I did both sides as both sides were cracked.
Then came time to press the wheels back on to the gear. But now the gear shaft was very tight. I used a T" nut with the "flat" against the wheel and the center protecting the outter axle and was easily able to press on the first wheel. When I tried to do the second wheel, it would seem that the first wheel would rather press further on (too far) than get the second wheel started. Finally, I was able to get the second wheel on and started, but at that point, the first side was in so far that the wheels were under-gauge and the gear was in the wrong position relative to the worm gear on the motor.
" I was able to place the wheels back in the vise, and using a wrench on the wheel, whack it (the wrench) with a hammer to spread the wheels and get them back into gauge. Great! Reassemble the trucks and back to cleaning.
OK..., now I find that the other wheel on this truck suffered the same malady with both sides also cracked on the gear shafts. /DesktopModules/NTForums/themes/mls/emoticons/pinch.gif" Disassemble, make and flare two more brass sleeves, press them on the gear shaft and press the first wheel on just to start it. Not wanting to press the first one on too far this time, I took some 16 gauge wire and placed two wraps around the axle between the brass collar and the gear that had just started on. These would serve as a spacer too keep the axle from going under-gauge. I was able to get the second wheel on and the wire served it purpose perfectly, easily unwrapped once the wheel was in place, and this set came out in gauge the first time. /DesktopModules/NTForums/themes/mls/emoticons/w00t.gif"
