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I now have Aristocraft #6 switches on my outdoor layout I am not very happy with them hanging up and then derailing the train. Can anybody recommend a better switch that they might be using? Seems like I have to fool with them and even file on them. They are brass.
 

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You did not specify why or what derailed.

Keep in mind that large scale really does not have agreed on standards. Aristo switches are well known as having a sloppy checkgauge at the frog to accomodate large falnges and they are not very tolerant of semi scale flanges as used by Accucraft. the fixes for aristo switches have been published numerous times.

For live steam use I would recommend Llagas Creek aluminum track ... cheaper, much better operating, comes in a wide variety of sizes and whats more it is the best looking.

Regards ... Doug
 

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We use Peco SLE-895. They have all lasted well on the old layout, so we re-use then on the new. We allso have some from Tenmille, but the ones from Peco is the better choice. (Aka they say a loud "click" when you shift). Made of nickel silver. Don´t know price-level in the US.
Though we use compressed air to clean the tracks before a running session, so there is no dirt around.

Regards

David Clement
(DENMARK)
 

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I use and recommend Sunset Valley #8 turnouts with their low level ground throws on my outside track. They have metal frogs and I've never had a derailment with them (except when I stupidly run through a closed one backwards). They have been outside for 4 years now and they still work like the day they were installed. You can see the switches at:
http://www.svrronline.com/Switches.html
 

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I'm using Llagas Creek 0.250" aluminum rail and switches (#8s) and a custom 12 foot mainline radius switch. Llagas Creek made me a #8 double crossover that my trains can take without problems with Accucraft, Aster or Roundhouse locos and cars or LGB cars except only one problem . Some Bachmann and Hartland cars with really large flanges bump a bit on the switches and will occasionally derail on the switches.


Three years of 25 F to 115 F temperature cycles on the track have been fine - needed to unfasten the turns from the rigid roadbed though, to keep the track from getting out of line.
 

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In the current batch of aristo #6, the only thing that seems to be bad is the frog, the gap at the toe of the frog is too big.

In the previous generations, the flangeway width (on the stock rails) is too wide.

Are these the only switches you have? If so, check the gauge of your rolling stock, especially the back to back. These switches are usually pretty easy to get through.

I have seen tight check gauge too, but knowing exactly what is happening to your loco. Is the switch "hanging up" does this mean the switch is not throwing all the way?

You can make these switches work fine.

Regards, Greg
 

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I recently put down 5 USA #6 brass (code 332) switches on my new layout. I had a few guys over a couple of weeks ago. We ran Bachmann Connie's and K-27's and Accucraft K-27 and 4-4-0 live steam. All rolling stock were Accucraft and Bachmann 1:20.

We had NO derailments over a 4 hour run. All engines went through the switches without a problem. I don't why USA #6's are constantly left out of the discussions. IMHO, they are a very good buy for the money, that's if you're using 332 track.

Doc
 

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I saw the USAT #6's at a show, and they looked nice, but they have a hokey microswitch setup to flip the switch in case you run through it backwards. You can just not use that stuff.

The switch construction looked very good, and I wish more people would buy them and write up how they are working.

I really wish they were made in SS....

Regards, Greg
 

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I've used USA #6 switches and they work pretty well. Yoiu soon get bored with the microswitch and just use the manual over-ride to switch them. The problem is that they equate to something like a 16ft diameter with no lead-in and I'd like to go wider but can't find anyone who provides a #8 code 332 switch.
 

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Tom King of Llagas Creek will make you any size switch in 332.
 
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