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Discussion Starter · #101 ·
Dave, I have four of those LS Atlantic tenders running--you're right that it would be a good fit. One behind a lionel atlantic, two behind atantics converted to consols, and one behind an aristo Pacific cut down to an Atlantic. I want something that looks a little different!

Just make it yourself--yes sure, but I don't have any styrene tube, Id' have to mail order it, and I don't know what size, etc etc. I started cutting up the Annie tender, just to see what I end up with.

I'm also thinking about cutting down an Aristo tender from a Pacific
 

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You don't need styrene tube. Get creative! How about dowels and wood blocks to form the basic shape, followed by a wrapper of embossed foil tape? Or you can use sheet brass, styrene, or even paper and lacquer/varnish/shellac. All you need is some way to form the shape, and then add rivets, details, etc.

I suspect you're thinking that it's too hard to make a good looking scratchbuilt tender, but it's really not that hard. It's nothing but a box with rounded corners and some rivets on it. Carve it out of foam, a block of wood, anything you like to work in. Try it - the worst that happens is that you've spent a few hours and learned something new. The best thing is that you have a new tender!
 

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Discussion Starter · #104 ·
Mounting that whistle on the side is a great idea--I'll do that.

I have a bunch of aristo tender shells, and I'd just as soon get rid of them . Something like this maybe? Looks a little odd, but some of those southern tenders look a little odd to me too

 

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Too high? I don't think so. Notice that the top of the tank lines up with the bottom of the windows, much like the prototype. The coal boards are a little high, though, and the curve looks really out of place. Two suggestions:
1. Cut them off and make new ones. Same length, about half the height, and matching angles front and back.
2. Soften them in boiling water and massage them flat, then cut off about half the height. It might be easier to do this if you cut them off the tender first.

Also, move that rear truck back, and put a steel channel frame under the tank.
 

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I'll second Ken's thoughts on the curved top. From what I can see from the photos, there appears to be a seam along the top where you can make a cut and install straight sides in its place. No Bondo needed. Evergreen makes some half-round styrene that makes great beading on the top edge of tenders. I use the .040" or .060" stuff if I recall. Do that, and I think you'll have a definite winner. (Sure beats the snot out of embossing a whole tender worth of rivets--a task that currently awaits me in my workshop that I'm still steadfastly avoiding--and I even have a rivet press to make the job easy!)

If there's one other thing I'd consider revisiting, it would be the front pilot. It sits far too high off the rails. I'd lower it by around 1/4", and put a proper working coupler on the front set at the appropriate height to whatever flavor of coupler you're using. Chances are good that you'd have to lower the coupler on the pilot to be compatible anyway, so why not make it operable, the right height, and bring the bottom edge of the cow catcher low enough to where the cow won't just slide underneath. ;)

Later,

K
 

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Discussion Starter · #109 ·
Thanks very much. The trucks are just resting on a piece of square acrylic. Just now I cut the aristo frame down and set the trucks on that, and that makes it MUCH too high. So I'll have to cut some off the base.

The aristo coal boards are hard to explain--they're molded to the shell and the're no way they could be straightened. I'll have to either cut them off or live with them as they are.
 

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Discussion Starter · #110 ·
Posted By East Broad Top on 14 Jun 2012 05:52 PM


If there's one other thing I'd consider revisiting, it would be the front pilot. It sits far too high off the rails. I'd lower it by around 1/4", and put a proper working coupler on the front set at the appropriate height to whatever flavor of coupler you're using. Chances are good that you'd have to lower the coupler on the pilot to be compatible anyway, so why not make it operable, the right height, and bring the bottom edge of the cow catcher low enough to where the cow won't just slide underneath. ;)

Later,

K


Curses--you caught that. I made a dumb mistake with the pilot--I cut it back and then shortened the braces ato fit, then realized that I had set the braces with the pilot resting ON the stump of the frame, rather than meeting the frame on a butt joint. Just pure hasty dumbness. I've been trying to figure out what to do about it.
 

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Posted By lownote on 14 Jun 2012 03:25 PM
Mounting that whistle on the side is a great idea--I'll do that.


Aw, thanks! Picture was taken before adding a second safety valve in hole where whistle used to be.

Yep, that tender can be made to work.
And as far as the overall project, This baby's going places
 

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Discussion Starter · #112 ·
Tender came together quickly last night, and I was able to paint it this afternoon:



The pinstripes are gold auto pinstripes.

I like the silver better, but the gold is period-correct for the Southern Railway, which is what this will be badged for. Gold, or silver?
 

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If you like the silver better, go with silver (and silver lettering). Justify is as an early paint scheme - remember that Southern was formed in 1894 as a collection of many smaller railroads, and it never really lost that disjointed feel. Maybe this was ordered right before that time and delivered right around the merger, or a few years after, before Southern had standardized things like paint schemes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #114 ·
Well I just sat the loco and tender on the breakfast table and poled my managing partners (wife and seven year old daughter). They both decided on gold. So I'll be emailing an order into Stan Cedarleaf later today.

Today I'll fix the pilot and start wiring it for DCC
 

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Discussion Starter · #116 ·
We went off for a week's vacation at the beach. While we were gone, the "derecho" hit the Northern Virginia area. We've had no power for four days, although some of our neighbors got power back today. I'm writing this from the public library, which is open and has wireless.

I'm a little worried that the intense lightening may have fried the electronics in some of the locos, which are stored on the track in a shed. But there's no way to tell until power's restored.

So being bored and unable to do much work, I decided to try and apply the decals by the limited natural light in my workshop. Mistake! But here it is lettered, with figures added (chinese "1:30" figures from ebay, repainted and repositioned). The tender came out ok--I got impatient towards the end. "Coal" is aquarium charcoal over insulation foam.

I'd love to try it out--but no electricity! Maybe tomorrow I'll set it on the track, put some cars behind it, and snap a few pictures. I've set up a builder's log detailing the process which I'll publish when I get some "on the track" pictures







 

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Easily and by far the best and most credible standard guage conversion of the Annie I've seen, it has a really good feel to it. If there was only one thing - I'd change the pilot over to something that ran down closer to the rail head - the one on the loco is too high to be much use. But regardless, an excellent loco and project.
Thanks for sharing,
David.
 

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Nice. Makes me think about taking a zona saw to my Annie.
 

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VERY nice work! Not only does it not look like an Annie or narrow gauge, but it also does not look as old fashioned. It has that muscular look of a late steam era branch line passenger engine, and it definitely looks Southern! I'm impressed.

It is crying out for a nice long Southern pilot, though.
 
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