[Tom Leaton]

See how the prototype photos show the front edge of the cab as being in line with the axle center of the last driver. This may be part of the effect you seek. Also, standard gauge locos tended to have a higher boiler, to permit a taller firebox, something the Annie does not have.

Cheers

TL

 

[lownote]

Thanks so much to everyone who replied--it's been a huge help. Im going to take my time on this and see what I can do. Updates when appropriate!


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[lownote]

Well I went and got my old annie out of the attic. It was more beat up than I remembered. Also it was the "old" version, generation four, with a wood cab and the more ornate style domes. I thought about it for a while--I want this to be a loco in regular service. I could rework this and buy a BBT drive, or just get a latest generation drive, with the all metal gearing and the new from pilot mount. So I wentt ahead and bought a latest generation annie to cut down.

Downside is the pilot truck is now diecast metal, which will make shortening it a little trickier.

I decided to model it on the Ma&Pa rr ten wheeler shown in the Kalmbach Steam Locomotive Cylopedia, since there was a good drawing available. I scanned the drawing and sized it to 1:29 and printed it out. The biggest problem is the cylinders--they are too far forward on the annie. Moving them would take this project, given my skill level, from "fun" to "nightmare, because all the valve gear and associated rig would need to be shortened. It may not be possible to shorten it enough to get the right look. OK, accuracy is the first thing to go.

I may start working on it later this week

 

[lownote]

Slowly making slow progress. This project is way above my limited skill level, so I fully expect to mess it up.



Here's the Annie near the drawing of the Ma&Pa ten wheeler in the Locomotive Cyclopedia

I cut the smokebox down by roughly half an inch, and made a new pilot truck out of an old aristo Pacific pilot truck. Both are just tack-glued together, but they look like they could work. Patching that cut line will be tough.

The cab will be a problem for me. It has to be lower, and shorter, and set farther back, which means I have to deal with that slot in the boiler and then figure out how everything is gong to attach.





As you can see the Bachmann model is longer than the drawing. But I'm not going to attempt shortening the valve gear!

Several people suggested using smaller appliances--a smaller air pump, headlight etc. That makes sense from a modeling perspective, but in real life, I doubt that Baldwin would have made a larger air pump for a narrow gage loco. Wouldn't they have just stuck, to the degree that they could, standard-size appliances on narrow gage locos?

Suggestions welcome

 

[Pete Thornton]

The cab will be a problem for me. It has to be lower, and shorter, and set farther back, which means I have to deal with that slot in the boiler and then figure out how everything is gong to attach
One solution is just to cut it out - cut in front of it and behind it. Then clean up the upper firebox above the footplate (on yours, the boiler outside the can is rounded at the lower section whereas the in-cab bit is not. Just extend the not-rounded to the front of the riveted firebox below the footplate. Or ask someone if they have a piece of boiler to donate that could be fitted where the slot is.
Or you can just fill the slot. You can tell from this pic that I used several boilers to get this one!

 

[lownote]

Aha!

Thanks Pete, I see what you're getting at. Fill the slot, and cut away the attachment points on the running board. Looks easy when you know what you're doing! I'll need to bring the backhead forward a good bit, but that should be easy.

So how did that striped monster turn out?

 

[East Broad Top]

Wouldn't they have just stuck, to the degree that they could, standard-size appliances on narrow gauge locos?
To an extent, yes. For instance, a 9" Westinghouse airpump is the same size regardless of the gauge of the loco it's put on, as is a 15" headlight, generator, etc. But 9" in 1:22.5 is bigger than 9" in 1:29, so "measure twice, order once" to paraphrase an old saying. Many of Trackside Details' details are 1:24, and might translate well to appliances fitted to the standard gauge locos. If they don't have overall sizes listed on their web site, ask here. I've got some in my parts bin I can measure for you if need be.

Later,

K

 

[lownote]

I understand about the scale difference, but if accurately modeled in 1:22, and based on a standard prototype, it should be the same size as the one they bolted to the side of their standard gage offerings. That is, it should look oversized on the Annie at 1:22. as I assume it would have in real life?
I have bought a lot of parts from trackside and sometimes they seem perfect for 1:29 and sometime they are WAY oversize--thanks for the offer to measure! I usually buy them from Warrior run at the ECLSTs

 

[East Broad Top]

If I'm following your logic, that'd presume that the appliances would be somewhat proportional to the size of the loco (i.e., they'd use a 15" diameter headlight on a narrow gauge loco vs. an 18" headlight on a standard gauge one or something of that ilk. In some cases, that'd be fairly accurate. A narrow gauge loco may only need the capacity of a 9" airpump (or dual 9" airpumps) whereas a standard gauge loco would likely need 11" or something like that. Other appliances would have been largely the same size (injectors, safety valves, clean-out plugs, etc.) Fortunately, in most cases the appliances of different sizes are similar enough in appearance that a 1:24 model of a 15" headlight looks very close to an 18" headlight in 1:29, so they're interchangeable to an extent. (At least so long as you're not counting rivets.)

I'll definitely be interested in seeing what you end up with on this one.

Later,

K

 

[Pete Thornton]

So how did that striped monster turn out?
It got a coat of paint which disguised the stripes!

But then I acquired some other EBT locos, and it sits in the box waiting for inspiration to strike. It was/is too big anyway.

 

[Amber]

Pete, if you're looking for a bit of inspiration for that engine project, how about an 1890s D&RG 10 wheeler? You'd have to move the third driver to behind the firebox, but other than that...

 

[Pete Thornton]

Posted By Amber on 28 May 2012 12:24 AM
Pete, if you're looking for a bit of inspiration for that engine project, how about an 1890s D&RG 10 wheeler? You'd have to move the third driver to behind the firebox, but other than that...
How about an 1890s East Broad Top ten-wheeler (which was the inspiration for the project in the first place.)

The third driver is an issue - shame that Bachmann's ET&WNC prototype had equally spaced drivers. I have finally built a chassis using the B'mann running gear, but it is waiting for me to get around to the rods.
That boiler I made is way too big, as you can see. Accucraft's new D&RGW T-12 4-6-0 is pretty close to another of the EBT ten-wheelers, Kevin tells me, so we'll see...

 

[Amber]

Yes, this engine has a long straight boiler, but it does seem smaller in diameter than the one you built, in relation to the drivers. If you could find a plastic pipe that would work with the smokebox from the big hauler boiler, that might be closer to the right diameter for this engine.
Doesn't the T-12 have a wagon top boiler? That wouldn't work for this engine.

 

[Pete Thornton]

If you could find a plastic pipe that would work with the smokebox from the big hauler boiler, that might be closer to the right diameter for this engine
I spent a long time looking for a piece of plastic pipe. Never found one. The other problem is that those drivers are 48" diameter (the boiler isn't that small) while bachmanns are 42" or so in Fn3. Not sure why I started that boiler in the first place!

Doesn't the T-12 have a wagon top boiler?
Yes - EBT had a couple like that. My photo is second #4, but #9 and #10 were more like a T-12.

 

[East Broad Top]

Pete, all the EBT 10-wheelers had straight boilers. The only EBT locos to have wagon-top boilers were the first nos. 3 - 5. Number 9 (the 2nd-hand Mogul) may have had a slight taper to her boiler, but it wasn't very pronounced if it was there. (The lighting in the photo of #9 at Mt. Union gives the impression it may, but the geometry of the domes and other fittings aren't conclusive. When they built #5 ostensibly to the same drawings as that loco, it came with a straight boiler.

Later,

K

 

[Amber]

Do you have any idea what diameter the boiler was on that EBT 10 wheeler?

 

[East Broad Top]

Number 4 had a 52" diameter boiler, so with the lagging, etc., add another 6" or so to that.

Later,

K

 

[Amber]

As best I can measure, the large diameter part of the boiler on my Big Hauler 10 wheeler comes to 61 inches in 1/20.3 scale. If the boiler on # 4 was about 58 inches or so with the lagging, that's a pretty close match. It's pretty hard to argue about a 3 scale inch difference.
That would mean that the straight boiler that Pete made from a couple of donors is actually pretty darned close to correct diameter.

 

[Pete Thornton]

Posted By Amber on 29 May 2012 09:33 AM
As best I can measure, the large diameter part of the boiler on my Big Hauler 10 wheeler comes to 61 inches in 1/20.3 scale. If the boiler on # 4 was about 58 inches or so with the lagging, that's a pretty close match. It's pretty hard to argue about a 3 scale inch difference.
That would mean that the straight boiler that Pete made from a couple of donors is actually pretty darned close to correct diameter.

Well, I have a copy of the Baldwin blueprints, and my notes (from when my boiler was produced) say it was 230" x 56". The 5" made a big difference - it wouldn't look right.

Then there was the question of the 48" drivers. We now have a source or two - if you want to strip a $3,000 loco just to get the wheels off - but we didn't then.

 

[East Broad Top]

Pete, do the blueprints for #4 specify 56" for the boiler diameter (without lagging, etc.)?

Later,

K