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Also something looks a little off to me. The cab is maybe too low? Or the domes need to be lower? The annie's boiler has always seemed slightly wrong but I can't figure out why.
Mike,

I've chopped a few Big Haulers in my time, and even set out to make a standard gauge version in 1:22.5 ! (Gauge-3).

I think part of the problem is that the sizes of the accessories are what sets the mood! Baldwin had domes, but they were mostly the same size, so even if the original ET&WNC loco had small domes, at 1:22.5 they look big! The drawing of the Ma&Pa 4-6-0 shows that they are large for a 1:29th scale version.

Shortening the pilot is easy, and the Ma&Pa drawing suggests you need to do it. (Just cut the metal pckup strips and resolder them after you've cut and joined the plastic.)
You could shorten the cab and move it back like the drawing.

The rest is details. I'm not sure why you find moving handrails so scary? It's just a matter of making some more holes and filling the old ones. Not sure I buy the need to changing the running bords, but that isn't too trciky either.

Looks like a fun project!
 

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or if there are grooves in the boiler that it slides into that will need to be filled.
Every ten wheeler I've dealt with had grooves. I assume the latest 'Annie' and later versions are the same.

I have cut slices from the boiler and re-attached them together in a different order - that's another way to move the slots!

How do i cut the roof off, since it's a curved cut?
Small fret saw, designed for cutting curves in wood. Or cut it off and use a piece of styrene to replace it.

I'd probably be better off making a new cab from scratch
I have two or three cabs lying around if you want to experiment. The early wood ones and the later steel versions. Send me a Message.
 

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The cab will be a problem for me. It has to be lower, and shorter, and set farther back, which means I have to deal with that slot in the boiler and then figure out how everything is gong to attach
One solution is just to cut it out - cut in front of it and behind it. Then clean up the upper firebox above the footplate (on yours, the boiler outside the can is rounded at the lower section whereas the in-cab bit is not. Just extend the not-rounded to the front of the riveted firebox below the footplate. Or ask someone if they have a piece of boiler to donate that could be fitted where the slot is.
Or you can just fill the slot. You can tell from this pic that I used several boilers to get this one!


 

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So how did that striped monster turn out?
It got a coat of paint which disguised the stripes!

But then I acquired some other EBT locos, and it sits in the box waiting for inspiration to strike. It was/is too big anyway.
 

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Posted By Amber on 28 May 2012 12:24 AM
Pete, if you're looking for a bit of inspiration for that engine project, how about an 1890s D&RG 10 wheeler? You'd have to move the third driver to behind the firebox, but other than that... :)
How about an 1890s East Broad Top ten-wheeler (which was the inspiration for the project in the first place.)





The third driver is an issue - shame that Bachmann's ET&WNC prototype had equally spaced drivers. I have finally built a chassis using the B'mann running gear, but it is waiting for me to get around to the rods.
That boiler I made is way too big, as you can see. Accucraft's new D&RGW T-12 4-6-0 is pretty close to another of the EBT ten-wheelers, Kevin tells me, so we'll see...
 

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If you could find a plastic pipe that would work with the smokebox from the big hauler boiler, that might be closer to the right diameter for this engine
I spent a long time looking for a piece of plastic pipe. Never found one. The other problem is that those drivers are 48" diameter (the boiler isn't that small) while bachmanns are 42" or so in Fn3. Not sure why I started that boiler in the first place!

Doesn't the T-12 have a wagon top boiler?
Yes - EBT had a couple like that. My photo is second #4, but #9 and #10 were more like a T-12.
 

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Posted By Amber on 29 May 2012 09:33 AM
As best I can measure, the large diameter part of the boiler on my Big Hauler 10 wheeler comes to 61 inches in 1/20.3 scale. If the boiler on # 4 was about 58 inches or so with the lagging, that's a pretty close match. It's pretty hard to argue about a 3 scale inch difference. :)
That would mean that the straight boiler that Pete made from a couple of donors is actually pretty darned close to correct diameter.

Well, I have a copy of the Baldwin blueprints, and my notes (from when my boiler was produced) say it was 230" x 56". The 5" made a big difference - it wouldn't look right.

Then there was the question of the 48" drivers. We now have a source or two - if you want to strip a $3,000 loco just to get the wheels off - but we didn't then.
 

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But the domes look too big. Or something
I've always thought the domes look too big for a smaller-scale loco. Maybe just replace the sand dome? Or cut 1/8" out of the height ?

And I agree your cab looks a little too low?
 

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I don't think I can manage narrowing the running gear. Can that be done?
Well, you've managed to solve most of the other problems - of course it can be done!

Whether you want to attempt it is another, entirely different question. The danget is that you won't maintain adequate clearances to keep the rods from impacting. Having wheels that are wide isn't helping.

First question is whether just narrowing the gear at the top - where the reversing bracket drives the piston rod - will do the trick. If you look at the Annie cylinders, you'll find the valve chest (square top portion) sticks out further than the cylinders.

I always reckoned that the wide saddle and valve chests were designed for a std gauge loco (in 1:22.5) and Baldwin moved the cylinders inwards to match the 3' gauge drivers.

I have a set of cylinders somewhere (I think) with the cylinder portion cut off and re-mounted in the same vertical plane. The plan was to make a standard gauge loco in the larger scale. Let me look for them and see if I can post a photo.

Edit +1 hr



Them's pretty big valve chests. You can see the curve on the outside of the cylinders - on second thoughts, they were small cylinders added to large valve chests - imho.

You could narrow them - or use smaller ones like the set on the Delton/Aristo C-16. Someone around here has lots of parts.
P.S. In the junk box where I found them are two more sets of cylinders - one complete and one pair cut off the saddle. PM me if you want one!
 

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I looked at it last night and thought about narrowing the saddle to bring everything in towards the center, but moving or replacing the cylinders would be a better idea.
Don't try narrowing the saddle - the frames sit between the saddle and the cylinders - you can see in my photo where the bottom of the valve chests stop and the straight part begins. That's where the frame fits.

I think your cylinders are fine - its the valve chests that look a bit big. Leave the cylinders alone and you won't have any bind problems with the main rods.

My older units have the end cap moulded on, but the main piston rod assembly pops off the other end and can be re-mounted at any angle. So you could attempt what I started - cut the cylinders off, narrow the valve chests and reset the cylinders at whatever angle they work best. Want my spare to practice on?
 

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I was glancing through a 20-year-old magazine today and stumbled on a couple of photos of a std gauge 4-6-0 that looked remarkably like the Bachmann ten-wheeler. I thought it might be of interest in the future as far as dimensions and proportions are comncerned? (Sorry it's not the greatest scan.) I was struck by the small cab and tall stack.

 
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