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I have been told that the new Splitjaw Rail Clamps are not as durable (soft) as the older products. Is this true? Has anyone purchased these clamps recently and had trouble with them? I am interested in anyone's feedback. Regards, Dennis.
 

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I have used older ones and some newer, although still about three years old. I think the older ones had softer screws. Not sure though. Some of the older ones are fine, some seem to have bent screws from tightening too much. The older ones had a mix of steel and or Stainless steel screws. The newer ones have black anodized steel screws. They work great just don't over tighten. I also use LGB Graphite paste, any will work though.
Steve
 

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Brass or steel? I ordered and installed all Code 250 stainless steel clamps for 450 feet of nickel silver track. Never had any problems with the socket head screws. If they are properly installed and torqued, the rail ends align correctly.

I suggest you order a ball end hex driver.
 

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I think the problem is over tightening the screws.:eek: I know I tend to do this.:rolleyes: We need to remember the screws are small and not grade 8. I have a t-bar allen I use that has had the t part cut down and still I can over tighten the screws. :confused:

The small screw drivers that are sold to tighten the screws really help in not over tightening as much. Just make sure you get the right size as there are two different allen shaft sizes.
 

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They did get a bad batch recently. one side of the clamp is off centered. if you find that you have them call splitjaw to get them replaced.
 

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This is what happens when you over tighten. The one on the left is new, never used the others broke in use.



My troubles seemed to be with early one, over 10 years old. I haven't had any troubles with newer ones. Maybe I'm not tightening them as much. I think that the angle on the newer ones is a little more rounded and less pointed. I think the wedge shape with a sharp point put too much force on the sides of the angle and caused it to break.

Chuck
 

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The site says the screws are SS, never seen any SJ clamps with anything else.

Are you SURE they are ordinary steel? Do you actually have these?

Greg


I have used older ones and some newer, although still about three years old. I think the older ones had softer screws. Not sure though. Some of the older ones are fine, some seem to have bent screws from tightening too much. The older ones had a mix of steel and or Stainless steel screws. The newer ones have black anodized steel screws. They work great just don't over tighten. I also use LGB Graphite paste, any will work though.
Steve
 

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Greg,
Not positive they were steel however I did have a few that seemed to corrode or rust like they were made of steel. They Had been outside about seven years when I noticed them during some rerouting. Could have just been a bad batch. The newer ones are black and are probably SS also, have not had any problems with them. We also use the newer ones with black screws on our layout and have no problems, we do make sure to not over tighten.
Steve
 

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To check to see if the screws are actually Stainless Steel, see if they are attracted by a magnet. Stainless Steel is very little if not at all attracted by a magnet.

-Ted
 

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To check to see if the screws are actually Stainless Steel, see if they are attracted by a magnet. Stainless Steel is very little if not at all attracted by a magnet.

-Ted
This only works if the screws are made of a high quality Stainless like 304 (Non-magnetic attracted). Just look at most Stainless Steel BBQ grills. They are magnetic and they rust because they are made of a poor quality SS.
 

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Randy, most of my grills have rusted. My guess is that they are plated, chrome or(?). When that wears through, rust.

Chuck

This summer I bought a new Weber grill. The grills were all bright. I just took a magnet out and it strongly was attracted to the grill.

Guality SS isn't magnetic. I'm using Split-jaw clamps and my screws have never shown any degradation.
 

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At the risk of getting everyone upset, the magnetic qualities of stainless steel have nothing to do with quality, it has to do with the alloy.

Also, the resistance to rust, acid, etc. is a function of the alloy.

It is true, of course, that cheap "stainless steel" will rust or fall apart, and also, it is NOT the best choice for barbecue burners, at least in the very thin gauge used in most of the common barbecues.

It's also true that most of the alloys that the "public" sees are those that are only slightly magnetic.

I did a bit of study on SS and it's alloys.

In any case, most of our interest is in the corrosion resistance capabilities.

After all that, anyone have SJ clamps with anything other than SS screws?

Greg
 
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