SP Bloody nose colours

Maybe Paul Burch can chime in and help you.

Tom

There isn't one that matches perfesctly. Floquil Polly Scale S.P. Scarlet is the closest. Funny that comes up now. I will be spraying the end of a long hood today. When adding gyra lights I usually use the Polly Scale and just brush it. Red is a hard color to get good coverage so it will take several coats.

I used Floquil and poly scale for my sp h.0. stuff. On one model, I mixed my own using some formulas I downloaded off the net. I checked out my bookmarks to see if I still had the link, but it appears to be gone. You might try a search on google for S.P. paint schemes. I seem to recall that's how I found the formulas.
BTW, they worked ok, but unless you have a really, really good eye, the standard sp greys and reds from poly scale and floquil work just fine.

Floquil SP Scarlett and Floquil Lark Dark Gray. Even with the prototype, there occasionally was some variation in color hues. I model the older colors like the black widow or tiger stripe, but the SP modelers site recommends these two colors for the "bloody nose" scheme.

Gavin,
Looks good to me. If you are going to weather it then any minor paint differences won't matter one bit,they will disappear.

Thanks Paul, after reading all the my Strapac books cover to cover it's my first attempt at trying to detail and customise!

Can I pick your brains on weathering? What do you use? What paints? Chalks? I really like the effects you got on your SD45 and your GP40, would love to know what you did and what you used.

Thanks again,
Gavin

Gavin,
Most of the weathering is done with an airbrush and Polyscale paints thinned down about 50% with bottled water. Just go slow and have the brush adjusted so only a very small amount of paint is being sprayed. Its easy to keep going over the model until yopu get it the way you want but hard to fix it if you get to heavy with it. When you start thinking it is enough then stop because it probably is enough. I have about 5 or 6 colors mixed in small jars so I can switch colors easily. Dirt colors,grays,grimy black and oily black. Practice on an old freight car until you get comfortable. Main thing is go slow with it. I still get a little nervous about weathering a locomtive that I have spent a lot of time detailing,but it always seems to work out.

Gav,
Where/who did you get the detail parts from? Looks fantastic by the way.
-Mark

Thanks a lot Mark!

The speedo on the right hand side truck is an Ozark part, I just snipped off the end and replaced it with a length of paper clip as the wire wasn't long enough to reach up to the loco. The rest I made out of styrene, sadly no one makes these bits in 1:29, plenty for the HO folk out there, but sadly not many for the large scale SP guys. Ozark do make a few bits and bobs that are worth checking out, but none that I could use for this geep. The red emergency light has a red MV lens in the centre.

Gavin it looks great

Excellent work, Gavin!

Sincerely,
Matt

Even better for airbrush practice is to spray a soda can black and practice your trigger control on it. I did this long before I pointed my air brush at a model. Get photos of the real thing to see what is weathered and how much. On my SP models I use a lot of Earth, Grimy black, Rust, Roof Brown and Dust. I also use washes to simulate diesel fuel spills on the tanks and water spills.

Thanks for your reply Bob,

Have you got a photo of one of your locos so I could see the results?

Gavin

You can check my web site www.liveoakrr.com click on the Roster shots or the 2006 Meet photos. I will try and find some individual pics for you to see when I get home.

Thank you,

I think I've proboably just being looking at it too long! I got some more shed time tonight so I filled in the space in the pilots round the coupler draft box, looks so much better without all that empty space! I'm just peeking out the window and hoping that the rain and hail over here will eventually pass over so I can get out and get some action shots. Scottish weather is just so awful!