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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I finally have a reliable layout. I learned a lot by making mistakes, asking questions on here, and applying the solutions given. I even came up with a few solutions on my own馃槆

One of the most important take-aways is CURVES MUST BE SMOOTH. Curves have to be as flat (maybe a little natural superelevation for looks) as possible, with NO KINKS. My best way of doing that is with flex track. Get a piece or several pieces together, bend it into the shape of the curve by fixing the ends of the track to the places where the curve starts and ends. That will be the natural curve. Then lay down the roadbed using it as a template. It's a little easier with sectional curves, just join enough of them together and get the roadbed under them in place. Remember: no kinks anywhere, especially where those sectionals join. The reason for no kinks is any loco or car with some hefty weight behind it will want to ride up and over places on the rails where they kink - including rail kinked sideways or up and down i.e. bent.

So here are several videos of a train running this morning. I needed to get my mind off politics for a while!

Hillside
the Junction
Full Dynamics
on the grade
 

Super Modulator
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Yes, another tip is once everything is together, running a dual rail bender over the track, with just a bit of tension on it, tends to equalize curves. Also with flex track, helps bend the ends which are not bent before they are connected.

Greg
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Hi Greg - I've looked up dual rail benders on the market. Do you have a recommendation?
 

Premium Member
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Trainli.com has an awesome rail bender. It is heavy enough that you just glide it like an iron, you do not have to press down. It comes as code 250 or 332 but a kit can be purchased to convert it to the other sized track.
 
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