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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I love the expertise on this forum. Where else can you go for such esoteric information?

I am building an alcohol tank for #18 out of .032" brass. I am having issues with heat distortion when silver soldering (45ag). Anyone have thoughts on using a silver bearing solder for this application? I have used Bernzomatic silver bearing lead free solder on the water tank.

royce
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thank you for your thoughts David. Another alternative was to obtain a kiln or oven and heat the whole tank until the silver solder melts. A slow cooling would minimize the distortion I think. And I do have the boiler coming up to silver solder. Any thoughts on using oven heating?

royce
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Hi Royce,
I have only ever silver soldered 'little' parts together.
A torch is enough to get everything red hot.
So, unless it is a kiln to melt gold or something, I don't think that an oven will get hot enough for a boiler.
I was just looking at the instructions for the G1MRA 'Project' locomotive fuel tank, and they have you use copper rivets to assemble it before soldering.
Maybe you can use something like that to keep everything in alignment.
Cheers,
David
I'm using 0-80 screws where thickness permits (longitudinal spreaders) for alignment. I'm going to use a toaster oven to bring to 450deg F and then a torch to solder. Then back into the toaster oven to cool slowly.
The kilns I was looking at go up to 2200deg F. I'm guessing 1500 is more than enough. And with the digital models you can cool slowly.
And thank you for your interest in answering my questions. I hope to be able to run this loco for you someday. I've been working on it since the mid 90's.

royce
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
1/32 brass will buckle even under soft solder heat if you are not careful
I make my cabs and tenders from 1/32 and am careful not to get them too hot.
I use Staybrite solder and flux which is very strong and has a low melting point.
For tanks, I usually go with 1/16" material and silver solder them.
Thanks for your thoughts on this. I am going to use the staybrite as you suggested and preheat in an oven before torching to final temp. Hope that works. Nice thing about scratch building is that you can always start over.

royce
 
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