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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi there garden railroaders : To illustrate what I was talking about in the 232 U1 post without poluting it as it doesn't relate to that magnificent steamer, I decided to roll out my MTH PRR F3 in an A-B-A lash up (the B is dummy) and do a real long freight with almost all of my cars. This layout was designed for this as my prior one (designed for French railways) didn't have a siding which could accomodate such a long train, this one does as that is the function of the four track section, which was basically designed so that I could model those very long US freights. Which are so astounding for us Europeans where the screw couplings limits the charge of a train to somewhere around 3000 tons. I tried to make a video with my Lumix but it has such a bad definition that it wasnt worth posting.

Plant Plant community Natural landscape Branch Tree


This photo shows the whole 51 car freight wrapped around the far end curve with its spectacular viaduct and bridge.
I had to step back very far to get a wide enough angle to capture the whole train, so here is a close up of the front end crossing the Panhandle bridge (designed after one on the PRR in Pittsburgh):

Plant Wood Natural landscape Tree Watercourse


I hope you enjoy! Cheers,
Simon
 

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Simon,

Very nice—some work, time and money to put that together.

I was also interested in how you latch up J&M cars without using Kadees to protect against inadvertent coach separation…Most of my blood pressure events occurred when the U1 was free to make like a bird…unfortunately Aster did not fit optional wings…their only unfortunate omission in the engineering…🥺

Sam
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Hi Sam: I intend to make a post about that as I have a few new ones to make, the principle is this:
I get some rectangular steel bar 2mm X 6mm and file out a coupler hook out of it and shank (it takes about 15 minutes) and drill a hole for the cotter pin and one for the chain links. I recuperate the original J&M chain link and screw system and place it in the new steel hook, redo the rivet with a punch. Install in lieu of the original J&M coupler. To save time I do one side only as on the other side I use the chain only and that will not break the J&M coupler. I admit being lazy or having so many other better things to do.
But right now I am going to take care of family business and don't have time to do that, as I intend to make photos of the operation to help others solve this problem. Brass stock would probably work also, but you would want to brown it. I leave mine fairly shiny steel colour as under the belows I can see which side is steel and which is plastic. Or you could install some other make of couplings.
 
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