the fwrr loco is the accucraft 2-4-2 fort wilderness rr i have heard about the flame problem
and with the small cylinders there is alot of exaust so biger cylinders might cut down the
problem plus i might do what pete thorton i think did change the stack or bore it out
plus cut the exaust line short an add a chff pipe thats crimped at the top and slots in the
side pipe organ style and a #60 hole in the top of the crimp for releve pressure.
As I understand it, it's not so much a pressure issue as it is of getting enough air to the fire to keep it going. Boring out the stack allows more air into the flue through the stack. Enlarging the hole in the smokebox/saddle accomplishes the same end.
Small cylinders produce less exhaust, not more. The small cylinders produce less power and poor slow-speed performance, just like a Ruby. They have nothing to do with keeping the fire lit.
i was going to modify the cylinders to the larger ones because flys
like a rocket on my ruby when i have seen them run they are pulling the
fwrr caches that have brushes that dont turn the wheels very well.so a
heavy load i wil probaly cut out the smokebox like you said dwight.
cabfowrd im not touching the out side of the loco also did you get my email.
Casey - Do you have a burner issue on the FWRR? If not don't bother messing with boring out the stack. The cylinders will slow the loco down and also give it more power. RE: the coaches bend up the wipers on the axles as track powered lights are going to do you no good on a loco that is live steam and not insulated anyway. If you want lights in the coach just do battery power in the cars to the light with new bulbs for 3v or 1.4v then you can have a single AA in each car. Very simple. The chuff pipe is best cut off straight without any crimps or vents. Cut it off just at the base of the stack it will give you a clearer chuff and also not produce any draft to suck out the flame.
Are you planning to modify this nicely painted collectors
Here's a modified FWRR:
I'm trying to retain the original parts (the stack will bolt back in whenever I want it to,) and the paint job is too nice to mess with. I'd like to paint the roof grey or black?
P.S. For all you FWRR owners: The graphics are decals, not paint. My C-16 D&RGW #42 had really well attached lining - not this guy. I put some masking tape on the rear of the tank while cutting it for the r/c gear, and the decals came off with the tape.
I've been waiting almost a year for my replacement cylinders from Royce. Every time I contact him, he's nice enough about, and tells me he has mine waiting, but thats it, and I never hear back. I've given up /DesktopModules/NTForums/themes/mls/emoticons/sad.gif
I'm sure that the larger cylinders are really nice to have, however I have put RC on my Ruby/Forney and it works quite well. I used Spektrum DX6 with HiTec HS-81MG servos and run at 45 psi. Pulling 2 Bauchmann coaches I can run up and down my 3 1/2 % grades with no problem controling the speed using a combination of throttle and J-bar. Don't think I'll be investing in larger cylinders, got plenty of other things to spend my money on!
I'm not so much concerned about the size as I am the prototypical look of the replacement cylinders. I have a ruby, still in its box that I plan on modifying to look like engine no 6 on the OR&L. Trouble is the default cylinders don't look even close to the prototype's, so I have been hesitant to move forward on the project.
No biggy though, like you I have many other things to do right now. But eventually I would really like to give live steam a shot.