Ruby 2 OR&L #6

RE: Ruby 2 OR&L #6

Steve,
Thanks for pointing that out, looks like I'm going to have to figure out a way to lower the boiler.
Bill,
I'd have to take you word on that, but the point isn't ease, the point is modeling an engine that is of historical importance to me. I know I may only be able to approximate the appearance of Kauila in order to have an engine that runs, but, I'm willing to sacrifice accuracy for function, since I'm green where steam is concerned
Jeff,
Yeah, I was not able to locate that exact pic in STP, but I did find several from earlier periods that show the reverse tank. If you look closely on the pic above, you can also see that the tank is reversed. On all the pics the boiler was lower than the Ruby boiler. I may not be able to lower it to within the same scale measurements as Kauila, but I will try to get as close as functionally possible to that height. I have one thing going for me, the wheels on the Ruby are about 1.3 scale inches too big, Kauila's wheel size was 28" so the scale will be off a little, but I think I'm going to have to live with that, if I want the model to run well.

RE: Ruby 2 OR&L #6

The boiler can be lowered around 3/16" or so without too much trouble. I did it on my Tuscarora Valley #2 conversion. You get rid of the small saddle, and bend the steam pipe down below the boiler to clear.



You'll have to build a new saddle, but that's part of the fun, also.

Later,

K

RE: Ruby 2 OR&L #6

k,
What did you do with the linkage to the Johnston bar? (forward and reverse lever?)
Bill,
Right now, I'm in the planing stage, I've been taking the parts out and trying to determine what can be modified without impacting the performance of the model. As soon as I get into the actual modifications, I will include pics. BTW, if anyone has pointers they care to share with me, or warnings, I am more than happy to receive them. If it looks like I'm doing something that is just not feasible from a steam mechanics point of view then let me know. For example, the new cylinders are cool, but the outside surface where the steam chest meets the top of the mount, looks like I can flatten that our a tiny bit to look even more prototypical. I notice that quite a bit of it is cut away on the inside surface to make way for the mounting bracket. Will that weaken the cylinder? Mind your I only need to take off about less than a 1/16". And if that's okay, what about rounding off some of the sharp corners around the steam chest? Not much, more like a bishopiing or brazing the sharp corners?

RE: Ruby 2 OR&L #6

Thanks Winn, Larry. I won't need to hog out more than 1/32 and no where near the gasket. I'll put up some pics when I'm done.
In the meantime, I want to document a mistake I made on the first post of this thread. As it turns out NSH, mislabeled that engine. It is not Kauila. The size of the boiler, the boiler supports, the cab and front coupler pocket are all wrong for that engine at any time period. Also, she does not bare the road acronym for OR&L on her tank or the number 6 anywhere. I will post some real images of her around 1906 if I can find them. If not, I will post some excellent shots that Jeff Livingston took of her in her present condition.
I have a spec sheet arriving sometime this week and I will post more information on her for those interested in modeling an engine of that classification. I have this small bit of information for now.
Kauila is a 4-10- 1/2-C class engine built June 1889 by Baldwin.

Even though I don't have the specs or an erection drawing, I decided to test assemble the frame. This turned out to be a good thing.
First of all, I'd like to give who ever packed this kit and who ever designed the packaging a big wet kiss on the lips. It is one of the best

packed kits I have ever assembled. Every part is clearly marked and even though there is one discrepancy in identifying a part in the

stop by step instructions, the exploded views so far have no errors.

The instructions warn that you should not apply "force" to insert the driver bushings into the frame sides. A test fitting showed that I needed to

remove the paint from the inside of the holes for the bushings, or risk "forcing" them to fit. On one of the bushings I had to do some careful filling
to get the ideal fit.


Too much pressure and the frame could warp. Despite my best efforts, the frame must have already been slightly warped. As the image above
shows, I had to shim out the left front side of the frame so the drivers could roll freely. After attaching the mounting plate and cross beams I

discovered that the front, but not the back drivers were binding up and lubricating them made no difference. Some brass shim solved the problem
and the drivers are coasting freely.



I filed that little setback in the cylinders with a small file by hand. It didn't take long and while it isn't exactly like the prototype, it does give the impression
of being like the prototype.



I also bent the steam pipe down as suggested. I still need to fabricate a new boiler saddle, and paint the cylinders and valves, which leads me to another
paint question; Can I use a metal etchant to prep the brass for painting? Or would that ruin the gaskets?

RE: Ruby 2 OR&L #6

Realizing that I should test run the cylinders before I got things painted and had take the cylinders apart or something,,,,well, actually I just got antsy and had to see em run

You can't tell but those little wheels are spinning like crazy under 30 psi. I tried forward and reverse and they both work great on the little rig.
I spent the better part of the morning assembling the running gear and tuning it up. 2 things were minor frustrations and in all honesty I sort of liked that I had to do something extra for a change.
1. The cylinder shaft on the new cylinders are exactly 1/8" in diameter, while the shafts on the old cylinders are less than a 1/64" under (My only calibers are starett, but they are for cabinet makers and only go to 1/64. I'm going to have to get a decent set of machines calibers if I'm going to keep doing this)
I had to drill out the cross head by hand using a pin vise and then ream the finish hole just slightly.
2. The valve rods are weak on the model. They are made of brass and bend way too easy and the threads ended up being too big for the valves and the lock nuts. The kit shipped with some tools. Fortunately one of the tools was the appropriate size tap for taping the valves and the nuts. To tell you the truth, I would have prefered the right size die, so I could work on the threads of the valve rods, the valves are stainless steel and a bear to tap.

Those problems aside and much too my amazement and glee, she works,,, and works well I might add, in reverse as well as forward! You can't tell from the photo above, but those wheels are spinning like crazy. I can not convey the excitement at watching this model work! It was like Christmas morning when I was 6 years old and got my first train set. I had to tear myself away to get the camera and post this update.