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Discussion Starter #1
After a year of waiting I finally got my upgrade cylinders and have already been drawing up plans for the Ruby conversion to OR&L number 6.

This is how she looked around 1904 and possibly 06, so this is the look I'm going for in my conversion.
Below is what she looks like today.


The cab still looks basically the same but the front pilot stack and a few other details have changed some what.
The name on the side is Kauila. I have read in NSH, and STP, that the name Kauila means either lightening or refers to a type of

native wood in Hawaii. There is one more possibility that I can't verify because as is the case with many Hawaiian names it depends on
what the namer had in mind. Kauila is also the name of a legendary Sea Turtle that was said to protect and nurture the children.

If you look at pictures above she kind of does give the impression on a turtle with her big saddle tank and the smoke stack seeming to peer up
out of her shell. So may be it was never intended by the person that gave number 6 the name Kauila, but her name sake will always be the

Mythilogical Sea Turtle Kauila watching over the children and keeping them safe :)
I'm still getting a couple of other projects off my work table, just finished an electric guitar for my brother in law, about to finish my tender moderenization and after that,

I will put coach 64 on hold and start Kauila.
 

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RE: Ruby 2 OR&L #6

Richard,

I like the "charlie noble" shown in the photo at the top of Kauila's stack. It make's one appreciate what a rain downpour can really be like.

Will the conversion be 7/8th's or 1:20.3?

Steve
 

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Discussion Starter #3
RE: Ruby 2 OR&L #6

That's an interesting question Steve, I was going for a 1:20.32 scale,,, why do you ask?
Also, here's another question for you, would they have kept the "charlie noble" on top of the stack after converting her to oil?
 

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RE: Ruby 2 OR&L #6

Richard,

Kauila's low boiler profile, saddle tank, and TALL chimney looks very much like Argyle Loco Works' "Bantam". I wondered if Ruby's boiler is too high to get the same effect.

If Kauila were standing still in a real downpour without the charlie noble maybe she would get enough water down the stack to partially flood that tiny smokebox and the lower flues. Not sure whether an oil fire would be less affected than coal, but it couldnt be good.

Steve
 

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Looks like a "Mortimer" would be an easier engine to "bash".
 

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RE: Ruby 2 OR&L #6

Rick,

Bob Paoa and I do not believe that picture in NSH is OR&L #6 but rather a plantation engine. Check Conde's "Sugar Trains Pictorial", If I recall correctly there is an early picture of #6 while she was still an 0-4-0. She's pulling a small flat with a barrel. The saddle is reversed also at some point in her life.

Jeff Livingston
Kaneohe, Hawaii
 

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Discussion Starter #7
RE: Ruby 2 OR&L #6

Steve,
Thanks for pointing that out, looks like I'm going to have to figure out a way to lower the boiler.
Bill,
I'd have to take you word on that, but the point isn't ease, the point is modeling an engine that is of historical importance to me. I know I may only be able to approximate the appearance of Kauila in order to have an engine that runs, but, I'm willing to sacrifice accuracy for function, since I'm green where steam is concerned ;)
Jeff,
Yeah, I was not able to locate that exact pic in STP, but I did find several from earlier periods that show the reverse tank. If you look closely on the pic above, you can also see that the tank is reversed. On all the pics the boiler was lower than the Ruby boiler. I may not be able to lower it to within the same scale measurements as Kauila, but I will try to get as close as functionally possible to that height. I have one thing going for me, the wheels on the Ruby are about 1.3 scale inches too big, Kauila's wheel size was 28" so the scale will be off a little, but I think I'm going to have to live with that, if I want the model to run well.
 

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Richard,

just keep submitting photos as you build.

Bill
 

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Discussion Starter #10
RE: Ruby 2 OR&L #6

k,
What did you do with the linkage to the Johnston bar? (forward and reverse lever?)
Bill,
Right now, I'm in the planing stage, I've been taking the parts out and trying to determine what can be modified without impacting the performance of the model. As soon as I get into the actual modifications, I will include pics. BTW, if anyone has pointers they care to share with me, or warnings, I am more than happy to receive them. If it looks like I'm doing something that is just not feasible from a steam mechanics point of view then let me know. For example, the new cylinders are cool, but the outside surface where the steam chest meets the top of the mount, looks like I can flatten that our a tiny bit to look even more prototypical. I notice that quite a bit of it is cut away on the inside surface to make way for the mounting bracket. Will that weaken the cylinder? Mind your I only need to take off about less than a 1/16". And if that's okay, what about rounding off some of the sharp corners around the steam chest? Not much, more like a bishopiing or brazing the sharp corners?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
RE: Ruby 2 OR&L #6

I've got a question for some of you experts out there. I've heard I can bake the paint at 122 F for 30 minutes. Does that include the valve chests?
 

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RE: Ruby 2 OR&L #6

Hey Richard,
I know you ask for opinions from experts, but I can tell you what I did on my Ruby to Mason Bogie bash. I used plain old Krylon spray cans, primed and then color coat. I painted my valves and cylinders bolted together as a single unit. I baked the paint at 295 F for two hours. The painting was documented on pages 4 and 5 of my post. http://www.mylargescale.com/Community/Forums/tabid/56/forumid/11/tpage/1/view/Topic/postid/189/Default.aspx

I am NO expert, as this was my first locomotive of any type. The paint has held up well and I had no problems baking at 295 F.
Hope this helps.
redbeard AKA Larry Newman SA #1956
 

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RE: Ruby 2 OR&L #6

Since the cylinders and valves opperate at more than 200deg F there should be no problem baking paint. I do start with a cold oven so the parts warm up more uniformly. As for rounding of the corners of the valve chests, that is OK, I did it on my Forney. I don't quite understand what you are trying to flatten. I do think that in most cases you can hog out quite a bit as long as you don't get too close (like less than 1/16 inch) to steam passages or screw holes and leave plenty of surface for gaskets.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
RE: Ruby 2 OR&L #6

Thanks Winn, Larry. I won't need to hog out more than 1/32 and no where near the gasket. I'll put up some pics when I'm done.
In the meantime, I want to document a mistake I made on the first post of this thread. As it turns out NSH, mislabeled that engine. It is not Kauila. The size of the boiler, the boiler supports, the cab and front coupler pocket are all wrong for that engine at any time period. Also, she does not bare the road acronym for OR&L on her tank or the number 6 anywhere. I will post some real images of her around 1906 if I can find them. If not, I will post some excellent shots that Jeff Livingston took of her in her present condition.
I have a spec sheet arriving sometime this week and I will post more information on her for those interested in modeling an engine of that classification. I have this small bit of information for now.
Kauila is a 4-10- 1/2-C class engine built June 1889 by Baldwin.
 

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Discussion Starter #16


Even though I don't have the specs or an erection drawing, I decided to test assemble the frame. This turned out to be a good thing.
First of all, I'd like to give who ever packed this kit and who ever designed the packaging a big wet kiss on the lips. It is one of the best

packed kits I have ever assembled. Every part is clearly marked and even though there is one discrepancy in identifying a part in the

stop by step instructions, the exploded views so far have no errors.

The instructions warn that you should not apply "force" to insert the driver bushings into the frame sides. A test fitting showed that I needed to

remove the paint from the inside of the holes for the bushings, or risk "forcing" them to fit. On one of the bushings I had to do some careful filling
to get the ideal fit.


Too much pressure and the frame could warp. Despite my best efforts, the frame must have already been slightly warped. As the image above
shows, I had to shim out the left front side of the frame so the drivers could roll freely. After attaching the mounting plate and cross beams I

discovered that the front, but not the back drivers were binding up and lubricating them made no difference. Some brass shim solved the problem
and the drivers are coasting freely.



I filed that little setback in the cylinders with a small file by hand. It didn't take long and while it isn't exactly like the prototype, it does give the impression
of being like the prototype.



I also bent the steam pipe down as suggested. I still need to fabricate a new boiler saddle, and paint the cylinders and valves, which leads me to another
paint question; Can I use a metal etchant to prep the brass for painting? Or would that ruin the gaskets?
 

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Discussion Starter #17
RE: Ruby 2 OR&L #6

Realizing that I should test run the cylinders before I got things painted and had take the cylinders apart or something,,,,well, actually I just got antsy and had to see em run :)

You can't tell but those little wheels are spinning like crazy under 30 psi. I tried forward and reverse and they both work great on the little rig.
I spent the better part of the morning assembling the running gear and tuning it up. 2 things were minor frustrations and in all honesty I sort of liked that I had to do something extra for a change.
1. The cylinder shaft on the new cylinders are exactly 1/8" in diameter, while the shafts on the old cylinders are less than a 1/64" under (My only calibers are starett, but they are for cabinet makers and only go to 1/64. I'm going to have to get a decent set of machines calibers if I'm going to keep doing this)
I had to drill out the cross head by hand using a pin vise and then ream the finish hole just slightly.
2. The valve rods are weak on the model. They are made of brass and bend way too easy and the threads ended up being too big for the valves and the lock nuts. The kit shipped with some tools. Fortunately one of the tools was the appropriate size tap for taping the valves and the nuts. To tell you the truth, I would have prefered the right size die, so I could work on the threads of the valve rods, the valves are stainless steel and a bear to tap.

Those problems aside and much too my amazement and glee, she works,,, and works well I might add, in reverse as well as forward! You can't tell from the photo above, but those wheels are spinning like crazy. I can not convey the excitement at watching this model work! It was like Christmas morning when I was 6 years old and got my first train set. I had to tear myself away to get the camera and post this update.
 

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RE: Ruby 2 OR&L #6

The orignal piston rods are 3mm but some were also 1/8" The replacements are 1/8" Like you did a 1/8" bit in a hand chuck is all you need as its a difference of .007"

Glad that you are happy with them.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
RE: Ruby 2 OR&L #6

Jason,
Thanks, and thanks for hooking me up with them. I'm not just happy with them I am ecstatic!
 

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RE: Ruby 2 OR&L #6

Congratulations!!! It really is a great feeling to have an engine run when you get it together!!! When you get it run in a little and everything is set right it should run on 5 PSI or so. Did you reverse the valve timing as per Dave Hottman? Make sure it gets plenty of oil when running on air. The easiest way to do that is to squirt some into the intake line before hooking up the air line.
 
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