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Here is some 1:32 scale roller bearing trucks i drew up in Fusion 360 and then had 3D printed and sent to me. I've had an interest in making mostly prototypical scale 1:32 modern north American freight trains for awhile now. This version i made needs some clearance tweaking for the wheels and bearings and some adjustments to keep the springs in. I don't know how far i will go into this endeavor, i am just trying some stuff and see where it goes. Some difficulties on this path is finding blue prints for the modern era stuff (i grew up in the 90's so its natural i would like the modern stuff haha). also there seems to be very little G scale in 1:32 for the modern stuff. I know most of the G scale community is in the 1:29 so i don't know how much interest everyone will find in this post but i thought i would post anyways just to see the thoughts and interaction from everyone. I personally would probably model a few highly detailed models to run indoors and i don't know how well this would run outdoors. I'm sure the wheels could be modified to have what is usually used for the outdoor 1:29 stuff.

Everything is in plastic but if i were to go ahead and continue refining it, i would make the wheels out of metal. I used to be a CNC machinist so i think it is something i could attempt in the future. it currently has .250 sized ball bearings for the wheels.

anyways i hope you all like it!

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I think this is a cool idea.
Its a struggle to find affordable true 1/32 scale american rolling stock, locos, buildings and people etc etc.
In mean there is basically
MTH, which is very expensive and limited engines. and no longer in production
Piko/MDC No modern engines and very little modern US rolling stock
Marklin , very few US engine offerings
Lionel large scale, but they are like a Fat short 1:31 scale and no longer in production

Gary Raymond may still have the 1:32 wheels
 

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What kind of plastic did you use? The axle bearings could be subject to wear or heat damage with some plastics. I know the old MDC trucks had this problem. Don't know about Piko.
 

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Oh man, those old MDC trucks were made out of self-destructing plastic, must have been from the same supplier that made the first Bachmann Shay trucks!

I would have thrown mine away, but they literally fell apart before I figured it out.

They were well proportioned cars in 1:32 but the line was too limited to convince me to go 1:32...

Back to the subject, the resolution and finish I have seen from filament printers on trucks makes them look "ugh" to me. A resin printer and abs, and metal wheels and SS axles would be fine... but a lot of cost and time.

Now, perhaps for passenger cars, and print the sideframes to accomodate small R/C car bearings... hmm...

Greg
 

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I also model in Proto 32 scale. I just received a test piece from FormLabs using a new resin called Ridged 10K. They ran it on a Form3 SLA printer (but the resin is compatible with the older Form2) and it was incredible! Super ridged and strong and had no detectable layer marks. If you can find someone with a Form2 or 3 this would be ideal. If you join the forums on FormLabs' site or join the 3D Printing Model RR group in Facebook, perhaps you can get some pieces made buy a fan for a reasonable cost.

With the new generation SLA and DLP printers (that is, no extrusion of the plastic) along with the build area getting bigger all the time, I see a new age of scratch building ahead.

Also, Precision Scale Company has brass trucks available, but I do not think that they are modern.

Bill Box
 

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I model the PRR strictly to 1/32 scale, it is possible although difficult and limited in availability of equipment and supplies, notably detail parts and trucks. Notably we are missing a freight locomotive in live steam. I figure that SP is allso quite acceptable in that scale with Finescale co. Hariman cars + the many lightweight cars (Accucraft early models of the daylight and accucraft serise lightweight) + a good sampling of motive power., UP is also quite accessible although there it is a bit more difficult (Many SP locos can be converted though pretty well into UP). So it is not so desperate a situation for those motivated to model in the correct scale. What is really missing is trucks, brake gear parts, cabooses and coaches. Although these are covered in the three roads I mentioned. Modeling other roads like the N&W, the Great Northern, the C&O, the NKP, the Virginian, is feasable but entails much more scratch building. We will miss the MTH products, for those that didn't get them when they were available.
The Gal line seems interesting however I find the prices a bit too much for styreen kits that I understand do not have rivet detail (I beleive that individual rivets have to be placed by the builder, although I may be wrong on that). The problem with rolling stock kits is that they are very time consuming for the producer and also cost a great deal in supplies to be done, and most modelers will spend big money on engines, but not on rolling stock. I for instance am very tempted by the X 29 a PRR staple car used both in freight and passenger service, but at $300 + shipping per car its a bit over for a kit. and If I have to place all the rivets to boot, it makes it even more remote for me. Its the price for brass. However I would like to try it.
What is really needed is metal castings for freight trucks (here again Accucraft does sell their trucks) and perhaps laser cut brass kits for passenger trucks.
 

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Awesome, i would like to see some pictures of stuff you have made!
Go to galtran.com . Look at the L2s scratch building page. It is a PRR USRA Mikado frame. Many 3D sla printed parts as well as the generic USRA investment cast parts I have (I used to sell them, but no one seemed to want them.) I have almost all the detail parts of the Southern Ps4 Pacific which used many USRA parts. These pages also show some PRR specific steam loco parts that I printed and cast in brass some time ago. Everything is in 1/32 scale. Also included are some tender sides which I used my CNC rivet embossing machine.
Currently, I am working on backdating a FAM M1a mountain to an M1.
 

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The Gal line seems interesting however I find the prices a bit too much for styreen kits that I understand do not have rivet detail (I beleive that individual rivets have to be placed by the builder, although I may be wrong on that).
I'm afraid not. Alan lasers the holes for the rivets, but after that you have to do it yourself with Tichy or Grandt Line rivets. Yes, they are a bit pricey, but sometimes it is the only game in town.
 
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