Can anyone give me some advice on how to restore the bright sheen to the paintwork on my USA Trains rolling stock. The sun has got to it over the last 15 years - it looks fine if wet so I was wondering if varnish is an idea worth trying or even wiping with a plastic safe light oil. Before I try I thought u would ask the opinion of you all
Restoring the sheen to rolling stock paint
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Hi **** Habilis, thanks for the idea.i am based in the Uk so not sure if I can get that product. Put it did make me wonder if applying some Johnson&Johnson Pledge furniture spray and see if that brings back the colour - may just try some on a small panel and see if it makes any difference. Phil
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You should do a test of almost anything you use. I used Armor All on my '76 Cutlass and it made a sticky mess. I have never used it on another car or anything else.
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Gee,
Most people want them faded and dirty.
Most people want them faded and dirty.
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I have a number of USAT locos, notably the red and silver Santa Fe warbonnets.... Armorall brought the color back and it has a UV blocker.
If you paint is not peeling use it. It's not a 76 cutlass, and Armor All was remarkably incompatible with the vinyl used on dashboards of that era.
I have no issues with my 10+ year old fleet.
Greg
If you paint is not peeling use it. It's not a 76 cutlass, and Armor All was remarkably incompatible with the vinyl used on dashboards of that era.
I have no issues with my 10+ year old fleet.
Greg
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LGB suggested you use their smoke fluid on LGB products.
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I did my father's old LGB train a few years ago. The paint wasn't faded, but they were pretty dirty. So this is what I did.
- take the cars all apart, everything that can remove with simple tools
- wash everything in hot soapy water, rinse well
- towel / blow dry if you have compressed air
- air dry 24hrs
- they will look a lot better now, so if that is ok, put them back together
- if some things need repainted, especially easy stuff with one solid color and no markings like roofs or frames, do that next
- then spray everything with a satin or semi-gloss clear like Krylon sells for a "factory" fresh look
- or use a flat finish if you like that look or if that matches the rest of your cars better
- reassemble and run!
- take the cars all apart, everything that can remove with simple tools
- wash everything in hot soapy water, rinse well
- towel / blow dry if you have compressed air
- air dry 24hrs
- they will look a lot better now, so if that is ok, put them back together
- if some things need repainted, especially easy stuff with one solid color and no markings like roofs or frames, do that next
- then spray everything with a satin or semi-gloss clear like Krylon sells for a "factory" fresh look
- or use a flat finish if you like that look or if that matches the rest of your cars better
- reassemble and run!
The plastic modellers I have spoken to use pledge to seal their paint work prior to applying decals so it should work. I have used a wood polish which has a bees wax component to restore the surrounds of the signal lights on a 1:1 museum railway I volunteer at.
Armourall is available in the UK
https://www.amazon.co.uk/armor/s?k=armor+all
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Armor all wont really do it. Its like putting a wet finger on a chalk board to see it turn darker.
The chances are hight that after 15 years, the paint is fully oxidized. This is like rust for paint and plastics...depends what’s underneath.
The plastic, it depends.
I deal with strong sun here in Denver. Frankly, i bring my stuff in , even if shaded, to avoid the inevitable bleaching. Uv is strong even under the trees.
I use a product called classic dry wash and guard. Nfi
Its meant for concours cars.
I used it on a 60 year old raleigh bike with hand pin striping, which had dulled.
The product shined the paint, and took off the oxidized surface without harming the delicate red pin stripes and gold water decals.
Its a miracle product. It has ultra fine pumice suspended in a non mineral solution, snd as you rub, the pumice breaks down to even finer micro particles.
I use it on guitar finishes, and plastics.
It is your best bet, imho, with the above caveats. If the paint or plastic is fully baked and oxidized throughout, its unlikely to help.
Another more available oprion might be mcguires glaze car wax. Super low abrasion, but, mineral base, so some decals might be affected. Fully dry ink and paint graphics, probably not. Youll need to be prepared to clean the residue from plank crevices, etc.
The chances are hight that after 15 years, the paint is fully oxidized. This is like rust for paint and plastics...depends what’s underneath.
The plastic, it depends.
I deal with strong sun here in Denver. Frankly, i bring my stuff in , even if shaded, to avoid the inevitable bleaching. Uv is strong even under the trees.
I use a product called classic dry wash and guard. Nfi
Its meant for concours cars.
I used it on a 60 year old raleigh bike with hand pin striping, which had dulled.
The product shined the paint, and took off the oxidized surface without harming the delicate red pin stripes and gold water decals.
Its a miracle product. It has ultra fine pumice suspended in a non mineral solution, snd as you rub, the pumice breaks down to even finer micro particles.
I use it on guitar finishes, and plastics.
It is your best bet, imho, with the above caveats. If the paint or plastic is fully baked and oxidized throughout, its unlikely to help.
Another more available oprion might be mcguires glaze car wax. Super low abrasion, but, mineral base, so some decals might be affected. Fully dry ink and paint graphics, probably not. Youll need to be prepared to clean the residue from plank crevices, etc.
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Well, I have had success in bring the red back to a deeper color on my USAT locos, and also restoring the black of the ties on my track.
The paint is fragile, so I would be concerned with any abrasive, i.e. you don't know how thick it is, quite different from a car, a guitar, and a quality classic bicycle with a good paint job to begin with.
I have likewise had success with the mcguires cleaner wax, but again the abrasive worries me as it indeed will remove some paint, oxidized or not.
Greg
The paint is fragile, so I would be concerned with any abrasive, i.e. you don't know how thick it is, quite different from a car, a guitar, and a quality classic bicycle with a good paint job to begin with.
I have likewise had success with the mcguires cleaner wax, but again the abrasive worries me as it indeed will remove some paint, oxidized or not.
Greg
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26 Posts
I’d be cautious of warm water on plastic,it might cause warping. I realize paints vary, but on old cars we use DuPont number 7 polishing compound But old cars don’t usually have decals.
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Hi all,I have always used Pledge furnisher Polish. I have used it on Lionell many Years ago and used on G gage and Live steam Engines . Have had Verry good luck. Try it , You will keep a spray can for Your self .iT WILL KEEP YOUR ROLLING STOCK AND ENGINES preteen
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Yes, but if you are where the sun can fade your paint, some UV protection is helpful. Armorall has had UV protection for some time, but if you worry about armorall, then get 303, a uv-only protectant, originally used for airplane cockpits where fade from sun is terrible.
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