[Gary Armitstead]

Hi All,

This morning I tried to remove the screw holding the trucks to the bottom of the passenger cars. I thought this screw was treaded into the bolster, but it just keeps turning. Do I have to remove the body to get access to a nut inside. That seems very strange to me. I have removed trucks from other AMS trucks and they come right out. What am I doing wrong. I need to get these to Phil to be reworked for ball bearings!/DesktopModules/NTForums/themes/mls/emoticons/angry.gif

 

[jimtyp]

RE: Removing trucks from AMS J&S passenger cars

I don't believe you are doing anything wrong. I had a similar situation with one of the AMS log cars. The problem with that one was the bolt was put on so tight that when trying to unscrew it the receptacle/nut that the king pin goes into broke away and just kept spinning. I was able to get a small screwdriver to hold the nut in the bolster in place enough to loosen the king pin/bolt. Once I had it off I pulled the nut out, and glued it back in place.



I complained to Accucraft but it doesn't look like it did any good :-( If they would make the nut square or at least hex then it wouldn't spin as easy. Since it's currently round it can spin easily.

 

[Gary Armitstead]

That is probably what has happened. I have two of these cars from the very first delivery. Did you have to remove the body to get to the nut? The screw was in pretty tight! I have an e-mail into Cliff now and maybe he can give us an answer for the fix with upcoming cars. The rest of my AMS freight cars came off very easy. Thanks for the help.

 

[jimtyp]

RE: Removing trucks from AMS J&S passenger cars

My issue was on the log cars and it wasn't too bad to get to the nut. I have 3 of the AMS passenger cars and I haven't had any problem getting those off. My passenger cars are also from the first run. I think it's just a luck of the draw. The reason I took mine off was to send to Phil also, you won't be sorry, big difference.

 

[peter bunce]

RE: Removing trucks from AMS J&S passenger cars

Hi Gary,

The screw fits into a brass spigot or circular piece of bar, that is threaded to take that screw. They are meant to be a tight fit but aren't, and the top screw come loose rather easily by the look of it!

I know as one of my screws was also loose, and I tried to fix it, the best result is to take off the body BUT with some fiddling, (using your finger) you should be able to get your finger through the door, along the floor and feel the spigot which also has a screw at the top (inside the body) end! This screw fits into a hole in the plastic sheet floor.

With your finger holding the top you can then loosen off the bottom one. and add some cyano glue to it, and REMEMBER not to screw the bottom screw in too tight as you can easily break the bond.

The body is only held on with the outer 4 screws per side, when they are out a small screwdriver can be used to slide along the join and part the sides & ends, the most difficult part is at the end of the sides; and be aware that there are wires through the floor (into the toilet compt.) there is enough to get the body off and then the plug can be parted.

 

[Gary Armitstead]

That's exactly why I was removing my trucks, Jim-I was going to send them to Phil today for the bearing work! He has done ALL of my Accucraft and AMS trucks. I need to figure out how much trouble it is to get the body off. I tried a search of the forum and couldn't find the post about removing the body. I believe Kevin posted the procedure, but I still can't find it.

 

[Gary Armitstead]

Thanks Peter. I'll try that. I can see the indent in the floor just beyond the door, but my hands are pretty large. I believe I'm going to have to remove the body. While I'm at it, I can fix the gaps at each end! This is why us old retired guys never get ANYTHING finished!/DesktopModules/NTForums/themes/mls/emoticons/wow.gif

 

[jimtyp]

RE: Removing trucks from AMS J&S passenger cars

Here is a link to a thread on taking the coaches apart:

thread

 

[peter bunce]

Posted By gary Armitstead on 06/11/2008 2:25 PM
That's exactly why I was removing my trucks-I was going to send them to Phil today for the bearing work! He has done ALL of my Accucraft and AMS trucks. I need to figure out how much trouble it is to get the body off. I tried a search of the forum and couldn't find the post about removing the body. I believe Kevin posted the procedure, but I still can't find it." border=0>" border=0>" border=0>" border=0>


Hi Gary

Here is my topic

http://www.mylargescale.com/Community/Forums/tabid/56/forumid/8/tpage/1/view/topic/postid/28297/Default.aspx#30229
I enquired from Kevin, and the body does part quite easily, though his did not; I used a small (1/8" blade) electric screwdriver; here is a lousy photo (hand held, and taken inside at 2144hrs so I am not suprised as it is almost dark here in the UK) that shows the groove and one of the end fixings that takes the screw.

 

[peter bunce]

RE: Removing trucks from AMS J&S passenger cars

Hi Gary,

The groove is almost 3mm deep: say 1/8"

 

[Gary Armitstead]

Peter,

It looks like there are 4 screws along each side wall, very close to the wall and 3 screws along the wall but further toward the center of the car. To me it looks like the screws close along the wall are the ones I remove. Is that correct?/DesktopModules/NTForums/themes/mls/emoticons/unsure.gif

 

[peter bunce]

Posted By gary Armitstead on 06/11/2008 3:24 PM
Peter,
It looks like there are 4 screws along each side wall, very close to the wall and 3 screws along the wall but further toward the center of the car. To me it looks like the screws close along the wall are the ones I remove. Is that correct?/DesktopModules/NTForums/themes/mls/emoticons/unsure.gif" border=0>" border=0>


Hi Gary,

Yes take out the four along each side - they are longer than the rest by the way, and there is also a pair of screws in the space between the two center cills that MAY need to come out (I've forgotten!). Take out the eight first and see if the body will move; for information the (smaller) others hold down the floor to the metal baseplate. There is about 1/2mm clearance on the sides as the floor ribs on the outer edges are 2.5mm deep. but there are no ribs/grooves on the ends, those lift straight up when you free off the sides.

In the center of the floor there is a voltage regulator(?) on a small circuit board, the screw for that is deeply sunk in its center, and there is a small paper insulator sheet under it. If you are re-arranging the lighting circuit it can come out, and a 9 volt battery substituted; someone added it in a box under the floor, I may go down that route.

Big65Dude uses in one of the toilet compartments a rechargable NiMh battery pack; that it really the best idea, have a look as his superb topic on his at

http://www.mylargescale.com/Community/Forums/tabid/56/forumid/8/tpage/1/view/topic/postid/23115/Default.aspx#23295

 

[peter bunce]

Hi,

'Big65Dude''s website has all the information from his MLS topic in it as well. That is at http://4largescale.com/Thompson/56.htm Go to the section on rolling stock, then the Jackson & Sharp coaches. Whilst at the website I am sure that there will be other items to interest you!

For interest a UK company (available in the USA from Electric Model Works) is making some replacement sides for these coaches - see 'One to Twenty point me website for details and then go to Rio Grande Models UK from the left hand side - manufacturers section. They are of rebuilt coaches with the end window on the sides and ends missing, and coach 300 is available now with coach 292 following soon. That has the flat arc topped windows. Bot cheap though they are half the cost of the coach - that is due to us in the UK not having the number of laser cutters you have and thus higher cost! No connection by the way.

 

[Gary Armitstead]

Thanks Peter,

Late last night, our time, I took a look at your topic again and I got a call from Cliff at Accucraft. Today I will get the bodies off and send off the trucks to Phil. Cliff admitted that there were some people having issues with removing the trucks (screws turning, but not coming out!). I'm going to remove the voltage regulator altogether because I'm going to go to battery for the lights per Jack Thompson idea. I think it would be appropriate for Accucraft to have drawings on their website relating to the screws and construction of their cars. It could help a lot of people in the disassembly of these cars. JMHO

 

[weaverc]

Gary,
I am curious why you have to remove the trucks to send them to Phil. Phil's J&S ball bearing kits do not require any machining of the side frames and are easy to install. Phil provides a bearing that exactly replaces the AMS brass bushing. The wheels Phil provides in the kit slip into the bearings. All that is required is a small phillips screw driver to remove four small screws and loosen two others for each axle. I installed PNG ball bearing kits in my six J&S cars in about 45 minutes.

 

[Gary Armitstead]

Bad eyesight Carl. That's the only reason. Actually I was a tool and die maker before my sight took a dump. Bummer!