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1st Class Pirate
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello again!
Well the pirates are finding it hard to keep AFLOAT in this economy, so they have decided to try their hand (and hooks) at logging.

I have decided to take my second Ruby kit and build a Heisler out of it. I will not be using a specific engine as a prototype, but will be using a combination of three different small Heislers I found online. Due to an incredibly threatening copyright notice, I will not be posting pictures of the three locomotives. They are all small (as in 14 ton) two truck Heislers that scale down to Ruby parts quite well. The reason for not using a single prototype is that most of the 14 ton Heislers did not use a steam dome. Also one of the three had the neatest walkways and rails I have seen on a Heisler. My plan is to use the Ruby boiler (hence the importance of using a steam dome), burner, throttle, fuel tank, cylinders and valves, and most likely the cab. (well....maybe just part of the cab) So I will be building the trucks and drive train, the frame, the crankshaft, and cylinder mounting system. This will be a bit more complex than the Mason or the railtruck so it may be a longer project. I will start by building the trucks. I cast 8 drivers for this a while back.


After a few hours of machining, boring, drilling and tapping, and finishing, they are ready!



I know this does not look like a "big" start, but I started planning this in April of 2008............ so it's a pretty big deal to me!
The drivers measure 1.31 inches, which scales up almost to 28 inches (which is what I was shooting for). Next will be the axles with ring gears, the pinion gear mounts, and drive shaft mounts. Then I will build the truck frames around these pieces. Since I am using so much of the Ruby, not everything will be built "just like a Heisler" but I think it will still turn out well! I did purchase Kozo 's Heisler book since I needed to understand the basics (geometry etc) of the Heisler engine before I could design one out of Ruby parts. I am pretty sure I can build this thing, but we will just have to wait and see what happens.

redbeard AKA Larry Newman SA #1956
 

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Larry,

Interestng project! Heisler is my favorite geared loco but the spiral bevel gears would stop me from building one. I suppose plain bevel gears might work??? Did you make your driver pattern? How did you cast the drivers? I hope you share more photos as the projects moves along!

Jack
 

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Way to go Larry! I'll be watching this with great interest. I'm with Jack, how did you do the drivers? I know you are a jeweler so I'm guessing that has something to do with it.. Thanks for posting.
 

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1st Class Pirate
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Hi Jack and Winn,
Yes, I am going to use plain bevel gears.(I hope!) And Winn is correct about the jewelry techniques, a friend who has done a lot of live steam work gave me an extra driver at a steam-up. I made a mold from it and injected waxes to cast my drivers. As are most of the things I am doing in loco building, it was a "learning experience" ! I am sure that I could do a better job of it today than I did last spring. But they are here and ready so I am pleased. I plan on posting pics along the way.
 

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Posted By redbeard on 05/11/2009 6:51 AM
Hi Jack and Winn,
Yes, I am going to use plain bevel gears.(I hope!) And Winn is correct about the jewelry techniques, a friend who has done a lot of live steam work gave me an extra driver at a steam-up. I made a mold from it and injected waxes to cast my drivers. As are most of the things I am doing in loco building, it was a "learning experience" ! I am sure that I could do a better job of it today than I did last spring. But they are here and ready so I am pleased. I plan on posting pics along the way.




The process is called 'cire perdu' [lost wax in English] for those not familiar with jewellers' methods of making fine small castings in almost any metal [usually gold or silver]. It works equally well for bronze in any scale! All the little details brass bits on your accuCraft/Aster models are made like this...as are those by Trackside Details and others.....

tac
http://www.ovgrs.org
 

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Hi Larry,
This sounds like a fun project!
For your bevel gears, you may want to look at these guys: SDPSI (click on the shop icon. You might need to use IE to view their website correctly. Both Safari and Chrome don't work and I suspect that Firefox may have some trouble as well). 
They even have spiral bevel gears: https://sdp-si.com/eStore/Direct.asp?GroupID=2


I'm curious: are you going to keep the piston reverser of the Ruby or build your own valve gear?
 

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Larry, your construction articles are among the most informative and entertaining of the posts here. I am looking forward to following your progress.

Larry (the one in VT)
 

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Jack,

If all that is stopping you from building a Heisler is making gears, Heislers used straight cut bevel gears. So no fancy spiral gears to make, unlike the gearing on a Climax . Hope this helps and gets another locomotive started . The world needs more steam. Good luck.


Larry,
Looking forward to seeing the construction process on this one. Should be a very interesting project. Good luck to you too !

Charles M SA # 74
 

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1st Class Pirate
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707 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Hey David,
Thanks for the steer to SDP, I have used them for several things in the past including sprockets and chain on the railtruck. But I found some steel gears at a local hobby shop. As for the reverser, I will probably use the Ruby reverser valve but that won't be decided until the engine is running on air. I am trying to utilize as much of the kit as possible.
Larry

Hey Larry,
Has it gotten warm there yet? hehehe
Larry (the other one)
 

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Hey, we really do get Spring in Vermont! However, the last time we steamed at my track, the wind blew over the passenger train. Twice.
I'm not really wishing Summer to get here in a hurry--that means mosquitoes.

Larry (the one in VT)
 

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I understand your concern about honoring copyrights. Could you, however, point us to the web page(s) so that we might look at the prototype pictures ourselves.

Llyn
 

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1st Class Pirate
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707 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Hi everybody!
Today I made mounting hubs for the ring gears and shafts for the pinion gears. I am using steel gears for some kind of radio controlled dune buggy. I used the basic technique from Kozo's book. I turned plugs to go into the ring gear, silver soldered (silver brazed) them into the gear, and turned them to size. Then I bored the axle hole, and drilled then tapped two set screw holes. The pinion gears I turned short shafts to fit into the pinion gear and soldered them on. Here are the pieces.


And here are the finished gears. (and no, they don't go together, one set is for each truck)



Next.......the gear boxes!

Larry
 

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Hey Larry,

Are you done yet? Seriously, I love watching you tinker. It gives me hope, someday... Can't wait to see how she comes along.
 

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Hi Larry!
Could you let us know the item # of the gears you are using(brand)
Thanks!

manfred Diel SA #1313
 

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How many of these Ruby kits do you have squirreled away? Is there an 0-4-4-4-0 Triplex in the future, for hauling King Cake to market?
Keep the posts coming!

Larry
 

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1st Class Pirate
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707 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Hi Manfred,
What I bought was;
HPI Racing (brand) #87193 "4 BEVEL GEAR DIFFERENTIAL CONVERSION SET"
This set came with two ring gears and 4 pinion gears and cost me $10.00.

Hi Jerry,
Thanks for the compliment, really I just want more than I can afford so I figure out how to afford what I want.

Larry
 

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1st Class Pirate
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707 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Hi Larry,
Last kit for now, I know where there are more but no funding at the moment. Probably a good thing, will make me do the next one without any bought parts! This one will take a while though.

Larry (the one who hates cold weather)
 

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1st Class Pirate
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707 Posts
Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Well I have been fighting a head cold for the past several days, so things are moving a little slow. Plus WORK keeps interfering with my train time.
But I do have the first gear box hashed out. Not finished, not pretty, but it works and it works smoothly. Took a piece of 1/2 inch by 1 inch brass bar that I had already, bored the axle holes in the center of the 1/2 inch side. Then I counter-bored the holes enough to press in a couple of sealed ball bearings. Kozo used bronze for the gearboxes so he did not need bushings or bearings. I found a local supply of these small bearings at a good price, so I am using bearings. Once the axle was located, I marked out the opening for the ring gear. Using the tried and proven "drill-saw-file" method I "milled" the opening. With the ring gear in the box on the axle I located the axis for the pinion by holding the pinion gear against the ring gear, moving it toward the ring gear teeth till it bound-up, marked that line, moved it away from the ring gear teeth till it started getting sloppy, marked that line. The I split the difference, but leaned a little towards too tight. Bored the pinion shaft hole, and slowly filed the inside of the gear box to the spot where the gears meshed freely. I turned down the male end of a 1/4 inch "socket set" flex joint to match the pinion shaft diameter. I am not sure yet what will be done to the opposite end yet. In the picture the two axles are approximately the correct distance apart, with the pinion shaft angle raised to clear the second axle, the flex joint and gear box turned nice and free.


I still have a lot to do on this gear box, covers for top and bottom, cut off excess metal from the non-pinion end, and smooth all the edges and corners. Then I have to build a second one! More later!

Larry
 
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