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I am rebuilding my rr rail bed. I am going to trench down 6 inches, place a weed barrier, then course compacted blue stone, then 3/8 inch blue stone that will raise the bed about two inches above the grade. I would like to put a hardner in the 3/8 inch blue stone when I mound it but I want to be able to break it if needed.

Any suggestions will be helpfull.

Doug
 

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Doug, what I did was 1/3 Titebond II glue mixed with water and a dash of soap.
 

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Doug, if it's hard work, then it will be worth the effort
I use screenings as the final roadbed. They knit together well, and look very prtotypical. And as with the prototype, you will need to maintain it yearly with some added screenings and maybe some track re-leveling in spots.
 

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digging a trench usually directs the water down into the soil (under the tracks)which may cause frost heave. what state are you in?
Concrete roadbed sheds the water and just scraping the grass off is all the digging you need and no weed barrior
 

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I agree with Marty on the trench thing. I have just scraped the sod off and laid 3/4" modified as a base for most of my roadbed, then the screenings.
 

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I laid weed barrier directly on the grass then put 4/11 limestone on top of that. Tamped it, laid track and ballasted. The only place I have frost heave is where i originally started trenching. I live in North East Ohio.

Terry
 

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Modified(CRUSHER RUN) will work for the base???? Do you cover the crusher run with screenings or just use it as ballast to set the track? i also am from PA....
 

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I use the modified for the base material then cover it with the screenings which act as the actual ballast.
 

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Jim
its not like pouring a floor (as some would say) I simply lay it in the approx middle of the forms , as I pour every couple of feet I simply lift it alittle and wiggel it so its about in the middle. I wire each stick to the other with old bailling wire and leave about a foot out the end of a pour so i can wire the next one on to for the next pour. the rebar is simply a ribbon that ties it all together. even at a switch I wire the leg going off to the main. i usually leave a gap in the forms so I have a pad for the switch machine.
hope this helps
 

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Posted By devious10 on 04/13/2009 7:28 PM
Modified(CRUSHER RUN) will work for the base???? Do you cover the crusher run with screenings or just use it as ballast to set the track? i also am from PA....


I am using crusher run, then screening some fines out of the crusher run for the very topcoat with a homemade screen (2x4 frame and 1/4" hardware cloth). For the topcoat, a little goes a long way, but for the crush, there are places (embankments) where it and its dirt base are nearly a foot thick/deep.

Mine is either compacted shallow trench (on the ground), or on top of compacted fill dirt. With the rock put down wet and compacted in 2" or so lifts....using s square hand tamp. Much of my railway is either in a cut or a fill.

Just like building a road.
 

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Marty,

That's exactly what I was interested in. I hope to start putting down some roadbed this summer, as I have nearly finished the under house portion. I have another day or so of edging work to complete before clearing grass for the roadbed.


Jim
 
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