[Dick Friedman]

I was given four Llagas Creek code 250 switches which have been on/in the ground for lots of years, so they need considerable rebuilding. I have a spot that needs a left switch, but all are rights.

Since I've got to disassemble them completely, is it possible to convert a right to a left? It looks like the frogs are the same (anyone from Llagas Creek care to comment on that), and by flipping the curving rail end for end, it looks like it can be placed on the other side.

Anyone tried to do this -- successfully? TIA.

 

[Nutz-n-Bolts]

I think what you are talking about would work just fine with one minor exception. The frog is symmetrical and can be used either way or for a Y switch. You are right in the you could flip the out side curved rail rather than bending it opposite. The catch will be the wing rail that you can't flip. You could straighten one and bend the other but the will be a slight length difference then. Easy enough to just fashion a new wing rail out of new rial though. Let us know how it goes.

 

[Dr Rivet]

Dick

The issue is the cuts machined into the outside running rails where the movable points contact the rail on the inside are clearly "handed". If you turn the curved rail around, that part will be at the diverging [frog] end. If you don't care what it looks like, you can reverse both outside rails and cut new "slots" to accept the movable points. Painted and ballasted, one would probably never notice unless you pointed it out. Give it a try.

The other choice is to contact me and I will sell you a new switch kit [as a Llagas Creek dealer] so you can match your existing ties.

 

[Dick Friedman]

I'll take a look at the rails. If their are notches for the points, that might be a problem, but by reversing the curved rail, I may be able to just cut new notches. If not, I've got a bunch of Llagas Creek code 250 aluminum rail. I can make new outside rails, and new wing rails for a dozen switches. Tomorrow I start taking the switch apart -- spike by spike by spike.

 

[Nutz-n-Bolts]

Hey Jim, I have a few #4 switches from Llagas Creek. They don't have any notches, with the point being carved (actually it's a casting) to fit snugly over the stock rail. Mine are a few years old since I got them used so maybe things changed. I'm building my first G gauge switch right now and It's putting a new value to those frog and point castings! I guess I'll have to get some pictures and get posting.

 

[Dr Rivet]

Randy

I just looked at a stack of LC Ry #4s [10+] and the base of the rail [not the head] is machined away to form the mating face for the movable points on all of them. I know that things were done differently over time.

 

[Dick Friedman]

This afternoon and evening I began rebuilding my LC #4 switches. None of mine have notches, so it was relatively easy to flip the curved rail end for end, and move it to the other side of the switch. Had to reverse the points and the flexible point ends. The frog is the same for either direction.

I've reused about four LC ties to secure the ends of the switches; I'm not sure how to install them on the layout. I'd like them to be removable, so I'm not sure abut gluing the ties to the plywood base. Maybe I'll use my pin nailer, and pin them down, then spike the rail to the nailed down ties.

Any suggestions? Oh, by the way, thanks for the info and support so far.

 

[Dr Rivet]

Dick

Some people have used a piece cut from a perforated 'kick panel' for the bottom of an aluminum screen door. It is thin, and for outside; drains water and is UV resistant. Just screwed some of the ties to the panel from the bottom to hold the switch on the aluminum. I suppose you could glue them as well.

 

[Dick Friedman]

Good idea, Jim, thanks. I've got some thin plastic and cardboad around and may try that, as I've got power in the rails, and don't want to search for an elusive short circuit. Cardboard would work, as this IS indoors. This has been a pretty simple project so far, getting the gauge correct might be a problem, as I have only a few track gauges, and as I recall, the frog gets in the way of a tight measure.

BTW, reply off line, as I'm sure I'll need some Llagas Creek tie strips before I'm done with this project!

 

[Dick Friedman]

Set Back Central!! I built a jig for setting up the ties, and filled it with scale depth ties to match my LC ties. Then i began spiking the rail to the ties. But the spikes split the ties, and the spikes were too long for the ties; in effect, nailing the ties to the jig. Not Good!!

I wanted to make the switch removable, but I may have to just glue the ties to the plywood base, then spike the track to the ties. It'll be a bear to pull it out, but I'm not sure what else to do.

Before I go to all that trouble, though, I may glue the track to the ties (with contact cement, like the little guys do, and then screw the completed switch to the plywood base.

"Enjoyment with everlasting challenge" is right! Or is it "Everlasting challenge with occasional enjoyment?"

 

[Nutz-n-Bolts]

With the switch I'm building right now, I'm pre drilling all of the spike holes. I'm using Micro eng. Spikes that are .375 long. My ties are .4 x .3125 cedar. I drill a hole that is 1/2 the diameter of the spike and I don't worry if the hole isn't quite as long as the spike. I haven't split one yet. I took some pictures of my process. I Cut a template out of cardboard that holds all of my ties in position. this has worked really well. Once in a while I slip a shim just a tie width under the whole thing at the tie I'm spiking to hold it up tight to the rail. 4 or 5 of my ties were a bit short. It was also my first time cutting them on my table saw. Another neat trick i copied off of my Llagas switch (seen in background) Is to drill a hole through the outside rail flange for three ties at the points. this holds the rail from going either direction. This way you don't need to work about spikes on the inside hitting the points. My second picture shows this. Hope this all helps. Keep us posted. Pictures?

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[Pete Thornton]

Then i began spiking the rail to the ties. But the spikes split the ties, and the spikes were too long for the ties; in effect, nailing the ties to the jig.
Dick,

I found the same, and I started pre-drilling the ties. (Plus my hand gets sore pounding spikes after a while.)
There's a little Dremel cordless drill that is just perfect for the job. I don't know if it is still available, but the current one (Model 8200) should also work fine.


I also attached the ties to battens that run longitudinally under the rails, a trick I noticed 50 years ago when I saw my neighbor building track for his O scale railroad. You can glue them with ordinary (outdoor/waterproof) wood glue or pin them with small nails. Either way it holds the whole thing together and gives you a bit more depth! (This photo also shows my homemade track gauges.)

 

[Dick Friedman]

I'm fortunate to have hobby shops nearby! Sunday afternoon I went to one, looking for shorter spikes. Finding none, I bought a small tube of contact cement (Goop?), so I'll try glueing the rail to the ties. Then I may just spike the rail to the ties in a few places to hold everything in place. We'll see. I've got a ton of pix, but so far, my camera is not talking to my computer. It did just a few days ago.

I also bought some stain to make the ties look more lie creosote. I'll test it this afternoon too, and take more pictures.

 

[Dick Friedman]

Outdoors, I do as you have suggested, running a batten under the ties beneath the rails. In addition, outdoors I use ties that are the same depth as the width of the fence board I cut up for ties. The longer ties give more resistance to movement, and the battens tie everything together.

Here, though, I'm stuck with a table top that can't be adjusted. Thanks for your support!

 

[Dick Friedman]

I just uploaded three pix of my project, but I have no idea how to get them into this thread. If you can find them, take a look. I don't even know how to tell you where they are.

 

[SteveC]

Dick
You uploaded the pictures to your "User Profile - Activity" page, next time since you're a 1st Class member use the "Insert Image" button

located on the HTML editor tool-bar, just above the "Message" content area when you're composing your reply. You'll find an "Upload" button within the Insert Image dialog.

Anyway, here are your pictures.

 

[Dick Friedman]

Thanks, Steve. I never guessed that there was an alternative to the quick reply. I guess the there's always something to learn!

 

[Dick Friedman]

Glueing the rails to the ties today. Not going too well, as the assembly so far is pretty flimsey. After it's all glued it might be stiffer, and when I get the track down, it will be fixed by the track on either side. Tomorrow I'll finish switch 1 and see how it goes. Now that I know how to upload photos to the thread, I'll attach a picture or two.

 

[Dick Friedman]

Finished all four switches last night. Put them on the yard table, but not connected yet. Here's some pix (I hope). The first shows a test fit. The second, the unrepaired switches.