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Discussion Starter #1
Many years ago I purchased a RUBY kit and have enjoyed it. I always wanted to add remote control to it but never got around to it. I've seen the kit from RC-Steamers go from about $80 to it's current $125 and would now like to purchase one - thing is they are out of stock and an email to them bounces.

Did I wait too long? Are there alternatives? I can't bend down and chase it like I use to and really need it remote.

Thanks

Brad
 

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yes Brad, you can make your own bracket very easy. There are also some Regner servo brackets for the Hitec HS81/82 that can be used too for about 20.00 total for both. Being there is minimal torque on th eRuby servos some think sheet brass .025" is all you really need. Once bent up its strong.
 

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Build my own, novel idea. It's taken me years to get around to buying some - Hope I get some built.

So some brackets are available for about $20 I guess I'll need to look into them. That will probably be when they are $50.....
 

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Aw ... you will REALLY like having them ... you can get it done before the next century. the work is fun too!
 

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I don't know if this will help, but here are some photos of how I mounted the servos in my Ruby bashed into a Forney. The J-bar servo is in the bunker so that probably won't help much.



 

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Discussion Starter #6
Eric, since I purchase the engine last century I hope I can get it done in this one. I did like the simplicity of the one for sale.

Jason, I looked at the brackets at the Train Department but wasn't really sure what to get - Can I give you a credit card number and you send me what I need?

Winn - great photos and work!!! can you shrink it to fit my engine?

Honestly, I've got the skills and tools (maybe) to build something simple I just don't have the developer skills to design one. I'm a HAM radio operator and have built most of my rigs but that's just follow the instructions and solder the correct part in the correct place. Not much thinking...

Now more photos would help. Line drawings?

Thanks,
Brad
 

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Sorry, no drawings or more photos. The mount for the throttle is pretty simple and would fit the standard Ruby. It is basically just a piece of brass bent at 90deg. with a slot for the servo and two ears for the mounting screws to go through. I soldered nuts on the clearance holes to make assembly easier but that is not necessary. If you can live with manual forward-reverse this all you need.
 

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A friend of mine has a R/C control on his Ruby and controls the speed with the reverser... Open the throttle all the way and use the pinch-off effect of the way the reverser works on the Ruby (and other engines that use the same way to control direction).
 

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Thanks Winn - I found a drawing of one someone else built. While I can't comeup with my own I can (use to) be able to follow someone else's plan. 8^)

Semper - interesting way to control it. Kind of like riding the breaks to control a car.
 

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Thanks Winn - I found a drawing of one someone else built. While I can't comeup with my own I can (use to) be able to follow someone else's plan. 8^)

Semper - interesting way to control it. Kind of like riding the breaks to control a car.
Not really "riding the brakes"...

"Real" valve gear on a steam engine changes the flow of steam in the cylinders based on the position of the wheels and the position of the reverser. It can be adjusted by the lever in the cab to vary how long steam is admitted to the cylinder (called "cutoff") and thus use the expansive force of the steam to move the piston instead of the pressure in the boiler. Moving the lever closer to center (called "notching up"), shortens the time that steam is admitted and thus you maintain speed, but use less steam, so less water and thus less fuel... it is often called the "Company notch" because of the "Savings" it provides.

Ruby's valve gear has a fixed admission time and does not change when the lever in the cab is moved. Instead, that lever in the cab just reverses the flow of steam in the Valve Chest, changing it from "inside admission" to "outside admission" (and vice versa) to change the direction of wheel rotation. The lever controls a 3rd valve hidden between the frames to swap which way steam is flowing to the Valve Chest. Moving the lever closer to center just pinches off the flow of steam, just like what closing the throttle valve does, and does not change the amount of time that steam is admitted to the cylinders. It is more difficult to adjust it in fine increments. A small amount of movement of the lever results is a great amount of change in the steam flow... Unlike moving the throttle where you have a finer control of the amount of steam that is allowed to flow; a small amount of movement makes a small change in the amount of steam that is flowing. But with R/C control, your hand/eye coordination can detect speed changes and make quick small adjustments easier to do.
 

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Semper is right. All my Ruby type engines (including some scratch build ones with the same type of valve gear) only use one servo for speed/direction. Adding a second servo is just a series connection of two throttles. Locos with full Stephenson/Walschaerts gear need two servos.
Regards
 

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I have found that I have achieved much finer throttle control using two servos rather than using the reverser valve as a throttle. I was never able to feel that I had precise control using just one.

David
 

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I know at one point you could purchase premade servo mounts from the RC car side of the Hobby shop. However most were plastic or nylon and may be susceptible to the heat? Depends on your moutning situation I suppose? Small metal brackets could be fashioned from Brass angle available at most hobby shops or even some hardware stores? This from someone else who wants to put R/C in his Ruby's.
 

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Here is the kit that was offered as it is installed on my Ruby. I like the two servo better more control. Later RJD
 

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