The other day I painted a USA G scale boxcar in Rust-Oleum X2 in a Red/Brown color, I lightly coated the car in one coat and 10 minuets later it got the final light coat. I let this car dry over night and the next afternoon I gave the car two light coats of Textors Gloss Coat about 10mins. apart in the Blue/White spray cans, this is an Acrylic Lacquer paint and you can coat this over the Rust-Oleum X2 paints, I've done this for years and this is my normal painting procedure using Rust-Oleum X2 paints. Due note here the only reason the car got gloss clear coat was so I could install decals, the Rust-Oleum paint was a flat color, so I had to gloss it. I let the clear dry overnight and installed the decals, let the decals dry a couple of hours and gave the car two light coats of Textors Dullcoat about 10 mins. apart, I also used the Textors Blue/White spray can which it is also an Acrylic Lacquer which dries very quickly. I do not use the Rust-Oleum clears as they go on too thick and there drying times can take much longer and can re-activate the paint under it, which is where many problems can occur. Due note here I did not primer this car before painting, mainly because I was shooting a dark color and it covers well over most colors, but if I was painting the car a light color, I would have use white primer, or if the car had repair work, or metal parts. The temputures out side where in the 60's and the humity was low here in Texas, so I usually don't have problems paint under those conditions. This is the way I do it and I get good results, I stay away from using Rust-Oleum as my second color, if a second color was needed for a correct engine color, I would purchase Textors in the Blue/White spray cans and not use Rust-Oleum, goes on too thick and can cause problems. The best part of painting models is knowing what you are doing is going to work and not guessing that it might work.
trainman
