Rasied outdoor train storage building
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I can't get the picture to show up , but it was a raised train storage building. Built along side a wood rail fence. Storage building was made out of 5/8" pine vertical siding, with 4" on center grooves. It looked to be about 16' long and about 20" high and sat on 6- 4x4 post.
Hey, I see my picture appeared!! Yes lownote, that is the tread I am looking for. Do you know what forum it is in and who posted it? Maybe it was in the archives and can't get to it.
Doug, I don't remember if Axel Tillmann was the one who built this or not. Do you know if he was the one?
Will the person who built this reply here?
Thanks
Doug, I don't remember if Axel Tillmann was the one who built this or not. Do you know if he was the one?
Will the person who built this reply here?
Thanks
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Leonpete:
I built that. It's constructed on a frame 26 inches by 18 feet, made of 2x4s "sistered" together. On each side there are two ten ft boards and 2 8 foot boards, staggered--as you can see in this crude drawing (not to scale).
The "rafters" are made of 3/4 OSB cut to the shape shown. One is placed every 16 inches and they are screwed to the sides. I put pieces of 1x stock in between each "rafter" to help them keep plumb
The right side lower roof panel is not screwed to the rafters, it's screwed to a 4 piece sof lumber that sit against the side under the eaves. These are then screwed to the sides and when they scres are taken out, the roof panel slides down
Does this makes sense? So far it has been weathertight and solid
There's another picture at my website.
I built that. It's constructed on a frame 26 inches by 18 feet, made of 2x4s "sistered" together. On each side there are two ten ft boards and 2 8 foot boards, staggered--as you can see in this crude drawing (not to scale).
The "rafters" are made of 3/4 OSB cut to the shape shown. One is placed every 16 inches and they are screwed to the sides. I put pieces of 1x stock in between each "rafter" to help them keep plumb
The right side lower roof panel is not screwed to the rafters, it's screwed to a 4 piece sof lumber that sit against the side under the eaves. These are then screwed to the sides and when they scres are taken out, the roof panel slides down
Does this makes sense? So far it has been weathertight and solid
There's another picture at my website.
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Thank you lownote. I want to build an extension on to my 8'x8'shed using this design so I can back a whole train in. I could not remember how your removable roof section worked. How long are your removable roof sections and how did you cover the roof and keep it from leaking at the joining sections. Also what material and how thick is your roof.[ I'm guessing 1/4" plywood for the roof.] Does access to all tracks seam to work well with only one side of roof being removable? Or if you had it to do over would you make both sides removable? Could you post some measurements? Like height of side panels, measurements of rafters.
Thank you very much for your reply!
Leon
Thank you very much for your reply!
Leon
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3,134 Posts
Thanks Leon!
That shed has made a HUGE difference in the pleasure of running trains--just open the door, turn on thew power, and go
The roof is 1/4 plywood, and the panel that comes off comes off as one 16 foot piece. It's a two person job really, though I have done it by myself. The roof panels (2 at 8 ft by about 21 inches--I can measure it in daylight tomorrow) and they're both screwed to a piece of 1 by stock. The roof was painted with asphalt cement, the cold stuff, and then for the roofing material I used one of those rolls of roofing membrane--Home Depot carries them. The better stuff is rubber backed, with stone shingle type material on one side. It's very tough stuff and the extra can be used to make very convincing roads
I put a door in the back which is screwed shut. It would be good to have some access from the side--that is, from the side panel, the walls. I'm not sure taking the other side of the roof off would be that much help. But I really wanted it to be watertight and did not know how to manage that. A couple times I've had to reach in with a small plastic rake to get stuff out. But once I ironed out the kinks it was great.
I'll try to get some measurements tomorrow
Mike
That shed has made a HUGE difference in the pleasure of running trains--just open the door, turn on thew power, and go
The roof is 1/4 plywood, and the panel that comes off comes off as one 16 foot piece. It's a two person job really, though I have done it by myself. The roof panels (2 at 8 ft by about 21 inches--I can measure it in daylight tomorrow) and they're both screwed to a piece of 1 by stock. The roof was painted with asphalt cement, the cold stuff, and then for the roofing material I used one of those rolls of roofing membrane--Home Depot carries them. The better stuff is rubber backed, with stone shingle type material on one side. It's very tough stuff and the extra can be used to make very convincing roads
I put a door in the back which is screwed shut. It would be good to have some access from the side--that is, from the side panel, the walls. I'm not sure taking the other side of the roof off would be that much help. But I really wanted it to be watertight and did not know how to manage that. A couple times I've had to reach in with a small plastic rake to get stuff out. But once I ironed out the kinks it was great.
I'll try to get some measurements tomorrow
Mike
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3,134 Posts
I'm new and this and I just sort of figured this out. Sometimes when I do that it's a disaster, and sometimes it seems to work out. I can't remember all the measurements so I took some hasty measurements this morning. Here are some measurements and some pictures. We're in the process of painting it--this is the primer color and we haven't finished yet.
The first is from the back. The lower roof panels are 13 inches wide, the upper panels are 8 inches. You can see on the left, at the base of the upper roof, how it's open for venting (and screened) on one side and there is a piece of 1x tuff board trim to hold the left side lower roof in place. The lower roof panel slides under that piece of trim board
The second photo show the underside of the removable roof panels. The roof panels are screwed to those pieces of white tuff board, the roofing membrane is applied over them, and then when the roof is in place the lag screws keep the roof from sliding down. When you take the lag screws out, the roof will actually stay in place until you pull it down. The roof is made of two 9x8 panels which are screwed together, with a third smaller (12 inch?) piece added on the end to make for overhand on the ends
The last is a shot looking up from the front door. You can see the "rafters." They are nine inches from peak to bottom. They are screwed to the sidewalls, and then I added bracing in the form of 1x3's under the rafters--the pine boards you can see under the OSB. There are also braces going between the rafters, made of 1x pine. You can see one on the right side. It serves to keep the rafters plumb and also to keep the roof panels from sagging.
The side walls are 16 inches high, and the space from the track to the bottom of the "rafters" is approximately 10 inches. Th front door opening--the effective width--is 24.75 inches
The first is from the back. The lower roof panels are 13 inches wide, the upper panels are 8 inches. You can see on the left, at the base of the upper roof, how it's open for venting (and screened) on one side and there is a piece of 1x tuff board trim to hold the left side lower roof in place. The lower roof panel slides under that piece of trim board
The second photo show the underside of the removable roof panels. The roof panels are screwed to those pieces of white tuff board, the roofing membrane is applied over them, and then when the roof is in place the lag screws keep the roof from sliding down. When you take the lag screws out, the roof will actually stay in place until you pull it down. The roof is made of two 9x8 panels which are screwed together, with a third smaller (12 inch?) piece added on the end to make for overhand on the ends
The last is a shot looking up from the front door. You can see the "rafters." They are nine inches from peak to bottom. They are screwed to the sidewalls, and then I added bracing in the form of 1x3's under the rafters--the pine boards you can see under the OSB. There are also braces going between the rafters, made of 1x pine. You can see one on the right side. It serves to keep the rafters plumb and also to keep the roof panels from sagging.
The side walls are 16 inches high, and the space from the track to the bottom of the "rafters" is approximately 10 inches. Th front door opening--the effective width--is 24.75 inches
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